What exactly is going on here? What are they attempting to repair?

Who is Paula?

 

Paula is the co-owner (with her husband) of the used car lot where I purchased my Lexus. 3 and a half weeks ago she instructed me to bring it back up there (an hour and a half away) so they could run a diagnostic to see why the lights were flashing on the dashboard. It was my understanding that since I had just purchased it and apparently this same issue happened not too long ago and she was able to do a “reset” and the blinking lights went off that they were going to fix it. After it had been there for week and a half, she called me to inform me that the ECM needed to be replaced and the cost would be $2800.00 and I would be responsible for the for the entire amount and if I couldn’t pay that amount then I needed to come pick it up. So, my husband drove all the way back up there to find it in that condition and also a flat tire. I called her and texted her to call me asap. Up to this point, she hasn’t responded to my text or call.

 

Clearing fault codes is in no way a "fix" but is hiding a problem. You need to check your state laws but the dealer knowingly sold you a defective vehicle. I would recommend that you get someone to pull the reset history from the vehicle so you have proof that the dealer was aware of the problem and failed to notify you about it.

Might want to reach out to an attorney but in my opinion the dealer is responsible for the repairs. There was someone recently posting about a similar dispute from CO I believe but not sure what the resolution was.

 

The codes they gave me were P0761 and P2714. I just want to know if I should attempt another camping trip before I do a rebuild or would I be creating a more costly problem if I tow again. Thank you! Cheri

 

Here are the SM procedures to diagnose those two codes. If it was up to me, I would work thru the fault tree as it may just be a bad solenoid(s).

You need to find a shop that is willing and able to do this work and if you ask a transmission shop about this, they likely will say just replace the transmission ($$$).

I would not tow or go on long trips until this is figured out.

 

Okay, thank you very much. I went to a mechanic who quoted me $6700 to do a solenoid replacement...they said it's considered a rebuild. Does this sound reasonable?

 

No, that is outrageous for a solenoid replacement. You can replace the entire transmission for less than that.

Find another mechanic.

 

Okay Thank you.

 

I'm sorry for the hassles you are having.

For what it is worth, the stuff they have removed probably looks a lot worse than it is - but you still have the overall problem.

As others have said - resetting codes doesn't fix anything. Unfortunately a recent code reset would only be visible to someone with a code reader - allowing them to see that the module had been recently reset.

I'd try to contact some consumer protection agency to see if you have any legal recourse before you proceed. I'd figure you are out of luck in that aspect, but then again you have the dealer essentially saying they had information that there was a problem, took actions to make that problem harder too find and didn't talk about the problem. I'm not a lawyer or anything close to it - but might be worth some phone calls.

Absent legal recourse I'd find a trustworthy local repair shop. The repair codes seem to show issues with the transmission but I don't know it indicates a bad ECM.

 

In our newly acquired 2010 GX we've noticed that sometimes we feel a rumble strip sensation during acceleration. If we let off the accelerator, it will go away. Not sure if this is trans related or maybe u joints, but it's annoying. Also we have notice during acceleration that we get a hard shift feeling when the car downshifts to find more power. Up shifts are smooth as butter, but downshifts are most often "clunky". 154k miles on the rig and I have no service records, but did notice the fill plug on the trans has been turned at some point. Should I do a drain and fill first to see if that improves performance?

 

Hi, guys, I have spent about a year trying to find an answer for my transmission issue. I have a lifted 2010 GX460 on 33’s that routinely goes into protection mode and then won't shift into 5th gear. I use a blue tooth computer to clear the trouble codes and the car then shifts normally for the remainder of the drive.

Warning lights: 4LO, Engine, and Traction control
Warning codes: solenoid C and D (both are fine)

I have reached out on Reddit, Facebook, and some other forums with no answer.

I have taken the truck to 6 mechanics and none have figured out the problem.

I spoke to a guy with the same problem that replaced the transmission with no luck.

I have personally met three people with this same issue, so I'm assuming it is pretty common (as I have only met about 10 people with lifted 460’s).

Thanks you,
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

What are your codes?

 

What size tires do the other 3 have?
Have you tried putting on stock size tires to test and see if the codes don't appear?

 

I live in Southern California and when I drive my 2015 GX on the interstates during stop-and-go traffic (5-10mph), I'll experience a surge between 1st and 2nd gears. It's like the transmission doesn't know what gear it wants to be in and all of a sudden will shift harshly (not sure if it's up or down), but the car surges/clunks hard enough for you to think you got rear-ended. This will happen about once out of every five trips.

On a side note, not sure if this is normal or not, but I feel like the car downshifts rough too. I can feel the downshifts so much more in this car as opposed to my RX350 where I barely feel anything at all. Do you feel the downshifts in your GX?

 

This might not be related to your issue, but I would first make sure your driveshaft splines are properly greased. The spline shafts clunk when they're low on grease, and can feel similar to what you're describing. See below thread for more information.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...e-zerks-2.html