Oil pan is about $120, replace it. You can try restoring the threads with a tap it may work, probably not. Do you want to risk the plug falling out when you're driving?

 

I am getting a new 14mm new drain plug from local lexus dealership, that is all I can try. I am afraid the worst case is the I messed up threads on the transmission pan, is there any fix folks would recommend without going thru a pan replacement, which would me a lot.

Thanks.

 

Too late ... but this is not uncommon. Cheap torque wrenches are notorious for being inaccurate. Harbor Freight ... garbage ... so purchase the best one can afford. Also the usable range is important ... where using either extreme setting on the torque wrench scale will not be as accurate as operating in the middle 75% range.

For drain plugs ... I never use a torque wrench ... and ALWAYS use a new crush (sealing) washer. Best to go by feel ... using a new sealing washer ... tighten to the point where the washer crushes ... and only continue slightly beyond when the resistance JUST begins to increase ... this will be just beyond the yield point of the washer where a seal is established ... but not to where the plug threads will begin to yield.

^^ Agree ... new pan and drain plug is the right solution.

 

If you need the car use a rubber plug like a Dorman 65200 or equivalent depending on the size. This is a temp measure until you can get the pan fixed or replaced. You may first want to run some ATF, even old fluid, to flush out any possible shavings.

 

I am over spec by about 2 to 4 turns by my estimates. My torque wrench didn't click at 25 (I verified this with digital meter).

​I knew I was doing sth wrong as I never turned it much, my stupidity.

The new plug looks a bit longer 90341 10011

Looks like old one threads are damaged. I just tried new plug, I can thread it in, resistance feels right.

Moral of story as ASE said never trust torque wrench and use your common sense. Once washer is crushed, a bit of turn is good enough. I have to watch any potential leaks for next 2 weeks. For now I hope I am ok

 

I use a low ft-lb range digital and watch while tightening the small stuff. I know FSM says 15 ft-lb for drain and check on AT pan but I just do 10 ft-lb myself.

Fill as you stated is 29 ft-lb

 

i stripped my transfer case’s drain plug, because I was holding wrong place of a torque wrench’s handle. I used JB weld to seal it😜

 

Yep ... those threads are compromised. I always look at the plug threads and replace if they look "yielded" (stretched or deformed).

 

90341-10011 is drain plug
90341-10021 is check valve plug
I was wrong about part number in my original post, just to clarify.

 

Many years ago I stripped the threads on a Alfa Romeo Gilliatta Spyder oil pan. My Alfa mechanic loaned me a tap to make the hole larger with new threads. He told me to take a nylon handkerchief and push up in the hole and then make new threads with the tap. When unscrewing the tap it would pull the handkerchief out with any loose shavings. Had to use a larger drain plug but it worked.

 

Hope it works out for you man. I put a Fumoto in with a locking clip at my first change so I don’t have to mess with the drain plug anymore. Some like them, some don’t. I have used at least a dozen and they have never failed me. Plus draining oil is so much cleaner.

 

You put Fumoto into the transmission pan?

 

Do it right and replace the pan. New oil pain is $90, part number #3510635170. New gasket is $11, part number 3516860010. Filter is $33, part number 3533060070. O-ring is $1, part number 9030131014.

Check the drain and fill guide and you'll see my experience with doing the filter and gasket... it's not hard, just messy.

All part prices sourced from PartSouq.

 

Bummer that trying to do the right thing with a torque wrench actually caused this problem.

I rarely use a torque wrench these days but I learned long ago to be very careful with bolt in aluminum blocks or casings.

 

Fumoto Sucks. Nice concept ... but ... and certainly not for the transmission ... seriously ? If one really needs to go there ... the Stahlbus is a far superior design ... low profile with zero risk of the valve opening and has a secondary o-ring cap for security.