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I was just quoted $6500 for a rebuilt transmission and labor to install. Mechanic said that most people don't rebuild Toyota transmissions, they just replace them with remanufactured ones. He quoted a Jasper transmission for $4000 and $2500 in labor. I will not put that much into the truck. I may go to another shop for another quote before moving on.
Thank you for that link. My concern is the root cause of the transmission issue. If I buy another one and have it installed, what would keep the same thing from happening? I know things fail etc, but having only 140k and losing the transmission gives me great pause.
Replacing the Park Neutral Switch makes rowing the shifter feel like a brand new transmission. I got the newer part number. It's small, light and weighs like nothing. It's located on the passenger side/right hand side of the transmission Old and new. Forewarning. It's not easier to take remove completely and cleanly. It's very time consuming. The aluminum piece breaks/seizes and is very difficult to remove cleanly. Extra grease please.
Just gotta really grease it to prolong it even further.
Hi there,
I just got CEL and No Trac lit up on my dash. I haven't experienced any drivability issues (yet). I pull P0705 as well. I have reset it and will wait to see if it comes back. Are you still having issues? Mine has 82k km (51k miles)
So this came back! Same code - P0705. I am going to bring it in and see what they can tell me. Not experiencing any drivability issues.
So this came back! Same code - P0705. I am going to bring it in and see what they can tell me. Not experiencing any drivability issues.
Dealer confirmed that it's the switch. Part is on backorder though. Can anyone comment on how long this job takes - as in how much is this going to cost me? Sounds like the part isn't overly expensive but maybe labour will be.
Dealer confirmed that it's the switch. Part is on backorder though. Can anyone comment on how long this job takes - as in how much is this going to cost me? Sounds like the part isn't overly expensive but maybe labour will be.
at the dealer labour will always be high, if you have the time, call around to local independent shops to get a quote. (pull them up on Gmaps and assume whether or not theyre reputable based on appearance and reviews.)
Well, I'll pick up where this thread left off and see what happens. I just got a 2011 from Texas with 121k that had all of the service records, except for apparently the last one because 2 miles off of the trailer I got P2714 for solenoid D and P0761 for Solenoid C. I ordered a filter and pan gasket along with fluid and had my mechanic drop and fill that, he also ohm'ed the solenoids and both tested fine. He said the fluid was dark and burnt but there was not much on the magnets. He replaced about 5.5qts of fluid. The codes came back, as they have with everyone else. I drained the pan and added back in another 2.5qts and now when the light comes on I am only getting P2714 for solenoid D, so being an optimist I think the fluid just needs to get worked out. It was still quite dark when I drained it the second time. My plan is to do at least two more drain and refills or until the fluid looks decent and see how that leaves me.
It runs and drives great with no hard shifting, hesitation or hunting, so I am really really hopefully that it doesn't need a new trans.
11077230[/url]]Well, I'll pick up where this thread left off and see what happens. I just got a 2011 from Texas with 121k that had all of the service records, except for apparently the last one because 2 miles off of the trailer I got P2714 for solenoid D and P0761 for Solenoid C. I ordered a filter and pan gasket along with fluid and had my mechanic drop and fill that, he also ohm'ed the solenoids and both tested fine. He said the fluid was dark and burnt but there was not much on the magnets. He replaced about 5.5qts of fluid. The codes came back, as they have with everyone else. I drained the pan and added back in another 2.5qts and now when the light comes on I am only getting P2714 for solenoid D, so being an optimist I think the fluid just needs to get worked out. It was still quite dark when I drained it the second time. My plan is to do at least two more drain and refills or until the fluid looks decent and see how that leaves me.
It runs and drives great with no hard shifting, hesitation or hunting, so I am really really hopefully that it doesn't need a new trans.
FWIW, I was doing some random browsing this evening and stumbled across a video lecture from a few years ago about the A750, 760, and 761 transmissions. It is very detailed and mostly over my head, but while the presenter was covering common issues, the following caught my eye about error code P2714. I took a screenshot so you can see where in the video this is and listen to the gentleman speak on it. I know he speaks of Sequoia and Tundra during this moment, but as he states multiple times throughout the video, many of these issues span across all the vehicles that use these transmissions. End of day though, all that may be required is an updated calibration (ie no real damage). I don’t know what it takes to update the calibration, so don’t ask me! Video link below. I hope this proves helpful to someone.
I just purchased a used 2011 GX 460 with 90k on it. I noticed today that when I shift into Drive, the "D" on the dashboard wasn't displayed, it was just an empty circle. Park, Reverse, and Neutral all show up with no issues.
When I shift into S mode, it would flicker the gear for a second and go blank just like in Drive.
During this, the truck runs and shifts great. No issues there. Also, for a minute, the 4Lo light started blinking. I restarted the car and it didn't come back. It shifts in and out of 4Lo just fine.
Back to the transmission indicator light. I started jiggling the shifter back and forth a bunch and the D light and S lights started working again.
Restarted the car, and they were off again. Jiggled more and they came back. Driving me a bit nuts.
Has anyone else experienced this? Do I just have a dirty sensor? Or do I need to make an appt with the dealer?
When this was happening did you have a hard time moving the actual lever? I'm having this same issue and had to manually depress the neutral override "slot" and then jiggle the shifter and it finally went into "D"
I had the same issue and shifting through the gears would be very stiff-Common problem. It is the neutral/park switch and it’s located on the exterior of the transmission. Part is reasonable like $100 but removing the old assembly is difficult in that it will likely be corroded. The part is has grease stuffed inside and eventually dries out and blocks the signal contacts indicating the correct gear status, which eventually pulls a code. Search the site for this problem and it will guide you through install.
Is the manual these directions come from available? If so, where/how? I have code P0705 [Transmission Range Sensor Circuit (PRNDL)], but in addition the shifter lever doesn't feel right, like there is some hangup with the cable or linkage.
