FWIW - I'm at 191K with stock driveshafts, and have used Lucas Red n' Tacky (Lithium complex / NLGI #2 consistency) on the Slips and U-Joints (and maybe once every 30k-40k or so?), and they've made it this far

 

I believe I saw someplace (BITOG maybe?) that the Toyota Transfer Case Oil is no longer packaged in the old style can... it's now sold in a plastic bottle like practically ever other lubricant. That's why the part number has changed.

 

Interesting, I see a supersession part number 08885-81080 replacing the 08885-01806 which looks like this:

 

I went ahead and got the Red Line MT-LV since its additive package seemed very close to OEM at less than 50% of the cost. I'm already at 191k with only 3 OEM/LF transfer case fluid changes so far, so not much to lose

Regarding OEM: Are both new variants of OEM LF in the plastic bottle really 2x as much $$$ as the old metal can version? Something seems odd about that. Also, I don't think it was solely the metal can that gave the old formula the Hazardous Materials shipping restrictions, and the plastic bottle versions don't seem to have that restriction that I can tell in 1 minute of searching . Seems like more than just a change in packaging...

 

those are two places where you should not even bother buying Toyota oil. When I went to my Toyota Parts Department and getting some tranny fluid and I asked him about the rear pumpkin gear oil and he said it was $130 a quart and it takes what over a quart and a half.... I laughed! And he even laughed! I don't believe anybody ever buys that,it's crazy . Buy regular gear oil of the appropriate viscosity,i recomend a product which is superior by Red Line. They are just plain ripping you off, especially if you're doing it every 30,000 miles you're just throwing money to the wind

 

From what I understand 08885-01906 is now designated as Transfer Gear Oil 75w LL (long life) and is the replacement for 08885-01806.

i don’t have any information on perhaps and increased life of the lubricant. I am tempted to send in 30k original fluid in for analysis.

 

From what I understand 08885-01906 is now designated as Transfer Gear Oil 75w LL (long life) and is the replacement for 08885-01806.

i don’t have any information on perhaps and increased life of the lubricant. I am tempted to send in 30k original fluid in for analysis.

 

Redline 75w-80.

 

After looking at this, and my sample below at 30K, and comparing to another sample found with 55K I am going to go ahead and change the fluid for the liquid gold. the T/C was underfilled by about 200ML. My numbers compare to one with 55K.

 

I think I will do a UOA on my current fill of Red Line MT-LV once I hit 30K miles on it.
It seems like these transfer cases through a ton of iron.

 

Hi, check this: https://www.liqui-moly.com/es/top-te...mM4LHc-n#20842
You can buy from Rock Auto, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=11387&jsn=667
Bye.

 

Good to know. Any feedback on how the t-case fluid looks after 30 k miles of normal mix city/hwy driving, no towing, temps between 40-90F? Is it hazy or still kind of clear? I’ve found on my LX470, the t-case is hard on fluid (looks hazy after 30k while diffs using same fluid look clear, so I do diffs at 60k (no towing, no mountains))

 

... at 32k miles under said ^ conditions, the original fill transfer case fluid looked clear ... very close to same as out of a new bottle.

 

Even way over the recommended drain/fill interval, my TF case oil also looked surprisingly clean. Rear diff at same mileage - dirty as hell! Front diff was about in the middle (not too dirty). Same for the subsequent drain/fills (TF generally clean/clear, rear diff always pretty dirty).

 

^ ... always did my rear differential at 5,000-odd miles from new (GX460, GX470, 4-Runners, FJ Cruiser) ... always close to black with a medium mound of "gunpowder" colored metal paste on the magnetic drain plug ... change every 30,000-odd miles thereafter and it comes out slightly darker with minimal metal on the magnetic drain plug.