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I have it and it works great! Very easy to install, literally five minutes or less. Easy to connect to the Wi-Fi to set up and receive the images or videos off the camera when you want.
I also had one on my ES 300h before I sold the car and it also worked just as well. If anyone has an ES and is looking for a FitCamX for it let me know.
Any tips on getting the top of the black cover off? I am thinking about getting this but seeing videos where that piece is real hard to get off. Do I need to use a pry tool at all towards the top or just yank it up towards the headliner with my hands?
I’ve been running mine for two months now with no issues. Did check the footage after the first week to confirm it was recording. Video quality is good, works well in low light. Did manually adjust the brightness a little higher for my taste.
Specific to installation, I recall prying slightly and then yanking firmly to remove the OEM cover. Install is very easy. Just remember the grey connector is on the left side. No wires to run or cables to fuss over.
I’m tall, so the rear mirror blocks out most of the new blind spot. I can see the bump out being a potential issue for shorter drivers. Would have preferred it mounted to the right (like OEM) instead of directly below.
I'm leaning towards the FITCAMX, mainly because it seems to look more OEM and the ease of installation (if you only do the front cam).
Now I'm trying to decide if I should get the rear facing camera as well (more complicated installation).
I'm also considering hardwiring to the fuse box for Parking Mode (but also makes installation a more complicated) as their website says Parking Mode is available with purchase of fuse box wiring kit...
I would appreciate any feedback from FITCAM users that did the rear cam, and/or hardwired for Parking Mode; or if you think a rear cam and Parking Mode is or is not worth the extra effort and cost.
Closing the loop on this, I bought and installed the FITCAMX 4K front only. Also, I did not do the parking mode which would have required running power down to the fuse box (but I could add this later with a cable from FITCAMX).
@BullionGX For removing the trim, I slid the trim down towards the hood (it will only move about 1/4 to 1/2 inch), then put your fingers in the top of the smaller trim piece at top and pull towards yourself (this is the hardest part). Once that small piece is out, the rest just slides down. I found this video helpful:
I found all of the info and specifications about dash cams confusing and misleading. However, after watching the video below, I simply decided to go with the dash cam that was the easiest to install, and had more of an OEM look, and that's why I settled on FITCAMX. Install took about 5 minutes (at night). I've only had it a for days, but I'm satisfied. It is my opinion that no dash cam is going to give you perfect resolution to be able to read all license plates in all conditions (night, etc.). I'm not saying that I agree 100% with the video below, but I do believe there is some truth in what he is saying, and this helped me make my decision:
Yes, I saw that. Can’t figure what is different between the years. If they are drawing power from the rear view mirror area, it should be the same. I’ll email them. Thanks.
Yes, the app on the phone connects to the dash cam via wifi (and prevents any other wifi connection when connected to the dash cam). However, I only connect to the dash cam when I want to view, download, or change a setting. So the fitcam wifi access point on my phone is set to NOT auto connect, so it shouldn't interfere with any other wifi connection, unless you have a need to connect to the dashcam.
Set it, and forget it, until you need to pull a file. I am happy with it!
Thanks - that makes sense. I turned that auto connect thing off and it is good. The pics are decent too. Video download reminds me of AOL dial up but the SIM comes out easy enough. The image quality is quite good. I really got it just because I see stuff and grab my phone but am often too late to get a pic. Now, I won’t need to!