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Not all KO2's are the same ... what do you specifically have ? If running the standard passenger tire spec ... then 36-psi versus the "comfort" 32-psi that the door jam recommends.
Not all KO2's are the same ... what do you specifically have ? If running the standard passenger tire spec ... then 36-psi versus the "comfort" 32-psi that the door jam recommends.
I have the load range E, 10 ply. Tire shop got them at 37 psi.
Load Range E's on a GX?!?! If you want to not just take blind shots in the dark at guessing pressure, chalk your tires and determine what psi gets even wear across the tread. That's what I did with my GX470 and C-Rated K02's and came up with 38psi which got me 60k miles of almost perfect tire wear. ymmv
Load Range E's on a GX?!?! If you want to not just take blind shots in the dark at guessing pressure, chalk your tires and determine what psi gets even wear across the tread. That's what I did with my GX470 and C-Rated K02's and came up with 38psi which got me 60k miles of almost perfect tire wear. ymmv
I too am running KO2's in a load range E, but I did swap to 17" method wheels, and that is the version recommended for those wheels. The dealer has also aired mine up to ~34 psi, sounds like I need to increase that?
I've never chalked my tires, do you literally take chalk and draw a line across the width of the tire lugs, then drive and see where it wears off? If in the center, too much air, if on the shoulders too little air, and keep going until it all wears evenly? And do you need to do this for all four, or just use one as the test?
Load Range E's on a GX?!?! If you want to not just take blind shots in the dark at guessing pressure, chalk your tires and determine what psi gets even wear across the tread. That's what I did with my GX470 and C-Rated K02's and came up with 38psi which got me 60k miles of almost perfect tire wear. ymmv
I am more concerned about traction on slick roads than wear. This is my 8-9th set of BF’s on different vehicles(tundra, Tacoma,Subaru and now GX) and never got less than 55k out of the tires! For whatever reason this car performs very poor in snowy/slick conditions that’s why I’m asking about ideal PSI and winter driving. After almost sliding in the ditch the other day I had them siped and that made a difference but still kinda sketch. I never had this issue before on the other vehicles with this tire on.
Load Range E's on a GX?!?! If you want to not just take blind shots in the dark at guessing pressure, chalk your tires and determine what psi gets even wear across the tread. That's what I did with my GX470 and C-Rated K02's and came up with 38psi which got me 60k miles of almost perfect tire wear. ymmv
I have found that E-Rated Tires address the marshmallow steering response given the stiffer sidewall, with improved shock performance (response) given the un-muted road feedback a stiffer sidewall provides. Many posts fixate on reducing the un-sprung weight ... great topic in a sports car forum ... but on a truck based (body-on-frame) platform is almost comical. The weight of the Control Arms, Hub, Brake Calipers ... all deem any tire weight savings as being close to immaterial. Yes, there is the rotating mass ... but I have found no meaningful difference in braking distance or brake longevity running E-Rated tires.
Note ... E-Rated DO NEED higher air pressure for the same load conditions. Even many "tire installers" do not understand this fact ... E-Rated tires MUST run higher pressures. For the GX460 ... 45-psi would be the recommended minimum.
I am more concerned about traction on slick roads than wear. This is my 8-9th set of BF’s on different vehicles(tundra, Tacoma,Subaru and now GX) and never got less than 55k out of the tires! For whatever reason this car performs very poor in snowy/slick conditions that’s why I’m asking about ideal PSI and winter driving. After almost sliding in the ditch the other day I had them siped and that made a difference but still kinda sketch. I never had this issue before on the other vehicles with this tire on.
Was the "upsell" years ago ... "siping" tires using a "slicing machine" ... but the tire manufacturers understandably voided the mileage warranty ... so this has since gone away ...
Winter Traction ... all about Sipes ... aggressive tread patterns are great in deep snow conditions, but abysmal on ice and compacted snow which is the most predominant condition for the majority of drivers.
So yes, there are many options out there ... with Nokian being a leader in the above road conditions ... made in Finland where they deal with snow conditions for the majority of the year. I have found BFG All-Terrain Tires to be marginal when compared to alternatives ...
I am more concerned about traction on slick roads than wear. This is my 8-9th set of BF’s on different vehicles(tundra, Tacoma,Subaru and now GX) and never got less than 55k out of the tires! For whatever reason this car performs very poor in snowy/slick conditions that’s why I’m asking about ideal PSI and winter driving. After almost sliding in the ditch the other day I had them siped and that made a difference but still kinda sketch. I never had this issue before on the other vehicles with this tire on.
Thats because KO2s suck on snow. I don't care what anyone says on the internet or that it has the 3PMSF symbol, they are not good in my experience.
I ran a set on both my F150 and GX460 and won't be getting them again.
I have found that E-Rated Tires address the marshmallow steering response given the stiffer sidewall, with improved shock performance (response) given the un-muted road feedback a stiffer sidewall provides. Many posts fixate on reducing the un-sprung weight ... great topic in a sports car forum ... but on a truck based (body-on-frame) platform is almost comical. The weight of the Control Arms, Hub, Brake Calipers ... all deem any tire weight savings as being close to immaterial. Yes, there is the rotating mass ... but I have found no meaningful difference in braking distance or brake longevity running E-Rated tires.
Note ... E-Rated DO NEED higher air pressure for the same load conditions. Even many "tire installers" do not understand this fact ... E-Rated tires MUST run higher pressures. For the GX460 ... 45-psi would be the recommended minimum.
I dropped 10 lbs per tire on my F150 recently and it feels like a different truck. Same size, just a lighter tire.
And this is on a vehicle that actually has enough power to turn a 315/70R17 tire without regearing or seeing a massive difference in performance. I can still tow my travel trailer at 70mph turning 2000 rpm and have power left over. The GX460 struggles even with a set of 33's.
I've never chalked my tires, do you literally take chalk and draw a line across the width of the tire lugs, then drive and see where it wears off? If in the center, too much air, if on the shoulders too little air, and keep going until it all wears evenly? And do you need to do this for all four, or just use one as the test?
I would color a 6"+ wide line across the face of the entire tire in a nice flat parking lot, then drive in straight lines back and forth and see what it looks like. Start with too much air and see how the chalk wears off. Decrease air until the entire face of the tire wears the chalk off.
The GX-460 recommended pressures are not based on Load-E tires ... a completely different standard which is incompatible with the original passenger tire-based specification. Running E-Rated Tires at 32-psi ... one is actually damaging the tire sidewalls. Load-E tires are designed to have the support of 60-80psi internally (no matter the load) ... they are not meant to maintain such low pressures. Running the Load-E tires below 40-psi is like running your OEM passenger rated tires at 15-20psi. SAE standards are absolutely clear on this point.
I run my E-Rated tires at 45-psi ... perfect even tread wear ... not as high as recommended ... but certainly well above the 32-psi door-jam recommendation.