#Rust Proof Planning ('23 GX)
I actually purchased an MTM underbody washer (linked below) with spec 40" reach. Not sure how high the pressure will be until I use it (I won't be able to verify). Hope is won't cause any issues! I'll know if the pressure is a little too much. Those automated car washes are at insane pressures.
The MTM undercarriage has 4 nozzles, so not expecting much pressure distributing through 4 nozzles at max @1800 psi. I'll pass this under when the weather lets out periodically during the winter and planning to do 2 days prior to the rust proofing procedure.
https://www.mtmhydroparts.com/produc...8fae27e0&_ss=r
The MTM undercarriage has 4 nozzles, so not expecting much pressure distributing through 4 nozzles at max @1800 psi. I'll pass this under when the weather lets out periodically during the winter and planning to do 2 days prior to the rust proofing procedure.
https://www.mtmhydroparts.com/produc...8fae27e0&_ss=r
Washing all that winter road debris crap off in a car wash is much better then letting it sit all winter imho, but of course ymmv
Of all maintenance works rustproofing is the most difficult and perhaps the most important if you want to keep your vehicle long time. I started rustproofing my 2005 GX when it was 13 year old and my tundra when it was 8 year old. I used fluid film. It looks these vehicles start to have rust problems at year 8. My entire chassis was covered, doors and engine bay as well. I do it every fall. I was not successful in preventing all rust such as rust on bolts but my vehicles had solid frames. Pressure washer wash off the fluid film so it is better not to pressure wash it in winter. I agree anything is better than nothing.
Having learned from this, I rustproofed my 2022 GX when it was new. Will be able to tell if it makes a difference in about 7 years😜
Having learned from this, I rustproofed my 2022 GX when it was new. Will be able to tell if it makes a difference in about 7 years😜
My 2010 is really clean underneath being a lifelong Texas vehicle before we moved to far north Idaho. Now I'm pretty much going to let it sit all winter from now on. I don't want any salt within a billion infinity miles of my GX as I plan on keeping this thing until I die. Or my wife's 2019 RAM 2500 Laramie is going to do winter duty so I gotta clean that thing up and fluid film it.
Frame interior: Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol
Frame exterior and underbody: RP-342
On my 2022, I only did the second application this year so can't speak to longevity, but it's looking it will work well through the years. I plan on doing this annually.
Frame exterior and underbody: RP-342
On my 2022, I only did the second application this year so can't speak to longevity, but it's looking it will work well through the years. I plan on doing this annually.
At a minimum, give your vehicle a thorough underbody/underhood pressure wash when you get back to Texas to remove any residual salt/road debris from your trip.
I would not think twice about little salt on your vehicle from a couple week trip. These processes are needed for vehicles to remain in these salty conditions permanently. Someone mentioned powerwashing when you get home, probably a good idea to do that regardless based on how filthy it will be after a week long road trip!
Hello All,
First of all, Thank You for all your comments, opinions, experiences and suggestions. Tomorrow I meet with a friend and we take our woolwax and fluid film kits with spray guns, nozzel extensions and his compressor and get down and dirty! I'm planning to take photos and post here.
I'll be putting the GX up on 4 rhino ramps and planning on laying a tarp underneath, dropping the skid plates and spare tire and going from there. I will likely stick with the Car Care Nuts plan and stick to the frame (incl. inside), axles and brake lines (at least that's all I see and what he mentions in the video, it seems he wasn't there for the entire process because he only said 'frame" and referenced brake lines when the video was there). I'll have to make the call on each thing!
Wish me luck!
Cheers,
Shawn
First of all, Thank You for all your comments, opinions, experiences and suggestions. Tomorrow I meet with a friend and we take our woolwax and fluid film kits with spray guns, nozzel extensions and his compressor and get down and dirty! I'm planning to take photos and post here.
I'll be putting the GX up on 4 rhino ramps and planning on laying a tarp underneath, dropping the skid plates and spare tire and going from there. I will likely stick with the Car Care Nuts plan and stick to the frame (incl. inside), axles and brake lines (at least that's all I see and what he mentions in the video, it seems he wasn't there for the entire process because he only said 'frame" and referenced brake lines when the video was there). I'll have to make the call on each thing!
Wish me luck!
Cheers,
Shawn
Last edited by shawngt2; Sep 22, 2023 at 03:55 PM.
I sprayed our honda fit with surface shield last fall and actually just sprayed the engine bay with my 15deg nozzle from a fairly powerful pressure washer, and other then knocking off a bunch of road debris I am confident that 99% of the surface shield is still there.
Washing all that winter road debris crap off in a car wash is much better then letting it sit all winter imho, but of course ymmv
Washing all that winter road debris crap off in a car wash is much better then letting it sit all winter imho, but of course ymmv
I'm always dubious of that phenomenon.I can't say I've noticed a huge difference in the Surface Shield's resistance to being washed off over Fluid Film. But I haven't rigorously monitored or tested it. Both have worked well on preventing new rust. I'm more curious which is better for arresting rust that has already started. Since, like you, I have vehicles in both situations.
Or is this now considered like starting a debate over engine oil.
^Yeah it's tough to know who or what to trust these days. This fall I will be tackling the GX, and know the Rust-oleum rust reformer is a very attractive product from an ease of application perspective (being an aerosol product vs a brush on product) but certainly does need to be protected/top coated with something as it doesn't hold up well on its own imho. I also don't like that you aren't supposed to use it on stuff that isn't rust, so I think I will be looking more towards products the convert rust, then top coat it as needed. Not sure yet.
My thought right now is to knock down as much dirt and rust as possible with the pressure washer, and I might just experiment with using the 0* nozzle to blast rust on the frame where it's safe. From there treat the rust as needed, then apply a black top coat purely for aesthetic purposes. Then apply a surface protectant as needed.
My thought right now is to knock down as much dirt and rust as possible with the pressure washer, and I might just experiment with using the 0* nozzle to blast rust on the frame where it's safe. From there treat the rust as needed, then apply a black top coat purely for aesthetic purposes. Then apply a surface protectant as needed.
Too much opinions are out there but I am fairly confident that anything is better than nothing. These days vehicles are less prone to rust than they were 20 years ago, paying some attention helps a lot, especially with new vehicles when rust have not started. I started rust proofing my Tundra at year 8. I cannot say it is pristine underneath but I do not worry about rusted frame at the very minimum.









