gxman1

When I drive the car for a while and breaks are warmed up around 20+ miles of driving, and return home on slow and quiet street going around 10-20 mph I notice a whistle that seems to be coming from the front end driver side wheel (i think). The front brakes have about 80% left. This just start happening few weeks ago. I changed the OEM pads, shims, and had the rotor cut 6 months back and had no issues than. The GX has around 180K, and for the last 75K I didnt change the caliper, unkown if previous owner change the caliper or not.

As soon as I apply the brakes it stops and soon as I take my foot of the break starts to whistle. This only happens when the breaks are in use for a while, at cold start no noise.

Anyone have anything similar happen or any suggestions?
Thanks

LoneHiker

I always use Permatex Disc Brake Quiet when installing new pads, you might want to remove your pads and spray some of it on them, it often cures brake noises caused by various resonances.

This stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8007.../dp/B000HBNUFY

gxman1

Thanks Lonehiker,

I fixed it yesterday. I went to pepboys, and those idiots along with indy shop was thinking its the caliper. Here is whats different about the noise from the brake in my situation.

Usually the breaks makes a noise when you apply the brakes, and its usually shims or need some break quite stuff.

Mine was apposite, and I agree with their assessment of caliper slightly sticking, however, the car was not pulling when i break and stopped straight. Usually if the caliper is bad it pulls to to side. So, I was not convinced of the caliper, and I was not going to drop in the OEM caliper both side parts alone was somewhere $500 and the pad arounf $80, and get the rotor cut.

I pulled pad, caliper, pins, rotor. I sanded the pins, I sanded the rotor with 150 grit sandpaper, and most importantly I bought a small pouch from Autozone of sil-glyde lube. I carefully applied at all point on pad and caliper and pin holes where it touches. there were several spots. Once the pins were sanded and smooth I lubed it as well. Put everything back and I noticed 1 cotter pin was straight as opposed to other cotter pin were bent by design which allows the pin to turn if needed. Since 1 cotter pin was straight it would not allow the pin to spin. I am thinking last person did the break job and lost the cotter pin and they just put the straight kind in the pin.

Anyway, I took the straight pin and bent it like other.

After all of the work, I took it for a ride it has been 2 days and no sound. Breaks are great. I now know the importance of sil glyde and lubing up the parts.