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I recently put on some Centric e-coated rotors (model# 120.44127) with Hawk LTS pads and no problems so far. I was going to go with oem rotors, but other threads here on CL convinced me to save a few bucks and go with the Centrics.
The GX calipers can become seized and may need replaced. I have heard of some people having the pulsating feeling due to improper lug nut torque. First thing I would do is to use a torque wrench to make sure the lug nuts are in spec and then try bedding in the pads again. If you know your rotors are out of spec and need replacing...then just replace and make sure you tighten down to the correct torque on the lug nuts
I always torqued lug nuts to spec....still rotors would "warp"....not really a warp though, build up of brake material hence sometimes just resurfacing gets you through to the next set of rotors.
Read somewhere here about the slotted rotors? Any feedback would be helpful.
Stealership is attempting to get me into a 2016 GX460 Premium. Feel that slotted rotors might be the answer to the pulsating brakes. Wonder if the 2015 or the 2016 have the same issues.
Stealership will low ball me and then place in the front line at the stealership with a large markup.
I will go with the Power-Stop heavy duty slotted on the front when the current pads wear out.
Product Description: Power Stop 1-Click Extreme Truck & Tow Brake Kits offer superior stopping power that is demanded by those that Tow/Haul, as well as the off-road enthusiast. Any time you add weight to a vehicle by hauling a load, towing a trailer, or simply adding a larger wheel/tire combination, you change the operating conditions of your stock brake package. Those operating conditions may exceed the ability of the stock braking components. The Power Stop 1-Click Extreme Truck & Tow Brake Kits are specifically matched components designed to address the increase in heat and required brake torque that result. The Drilled&Slotted rotors will reduce the heat and the Z36 Extreme Truck&Tow brake pads will provide the extra needed brake torque to bring your hauler to a halt quickly.
Last edited by bbrowncods; Apr 27, 2016 at 08:04 AM.
Personally. I would not do any drilled. I would not do slotted. I would do a set of Non-OEM but good quality rotors that are not drilled or slotted. I know the others look cool. But our truck is NOT designed around these kind of rotors. Drilling reduces mass. Mass in a rotor is GOOD. Reducing it is bad unless you designed the entire system around these drilled (i.e. lighter) rotors. I had a good friend who was a racing brake engineer for a aftermarket braking company. He drove a car that did NOT come with drilled rotors from the factory and he bought basic rotors for his track car as well.
Personally. I would not do any drilled. I would not do slotted. I would do a set of Non-OEM but good quality rotors that are not drilled or slotted. I know the others look cool. But our truck is NOT designed around these kind of rotors. Drilling reduces mass. Mass in a rotor is GOOD. Reducing it is bad unless you designed the entire system around these drilled (i.e. lighter) rotors. I had a good friend who was a racing brake engineer for a aftermarket braking company. He drove a car that did NOT come with drilled rotors from the factory and he bought basic rotors for his track car as well.
No issues with mine.
As far as slotted and drilled rotors go, it is well known that they are better at stopping power because of their ability to dissipate heat and cool down. Your argument is flawed.
As far as slotted and drilled rotors go, it is well known that they are better at stopping power because of their ability to dissipate heat and cool down. Your argument is flawed.
Indycars no longer use drilled or slotted rotors. co4wheel is correct. Cross-drilled/slotted tech came about when brake pad formulas outgassed alot and needed dissapation. It is no longer the case with the majority of modern pads. Drilled rotors cause stress risers and an area that unevenly heats and cools to the point of causing cracks.
Slotted rotors were designed for the same purpose and to avoid glazed pads. They may have an advantage in offroad situations to cut slung mud that may get in between the pad and the rotor.
To avoid "warpage" (run out) , the metal mass is preferred to come from a good foundry source with proper QA casting techniques Often lesser no name brands source from China are from repurposed scrap metal that have been cast and cooled at fast rates.
Another agreeing with co4wheel and fastnoypi. Slotted and drilled rotors aren't needed anymore and usually cost more than a qood quality blank. If you want the "look" that is fine. Although we drive 4x4s not sports cars so not sure why you would want that look on a truck anyway. But to each their own.
I've had good luck with frozenrotor blanks in the past. Although admittedly I sold the car before getting too far on them. I think I put on 30k without issues with them and Hawk HP+ pads. Hard to say if cryo freezing will really add to the life of the rotor. Everyones driving conditions are different. But the science behind it seems valid.
