Doing 90K mi. servicing myself, incl. timing belt, wp and other goodies and can't get frt. diff. drain plug to budge. Had previously serviced by Master Toyota Tech buddy where we lived 200 mi away at 30K and 60k mi. per work order invoices showing work done. Now, I'm trying to get plug off and no go. Applied PB Blaster 6 times over 2 days to help free up, no good. Then, tried 150 psi w/ 1/2 in. impact gun and 1/2 in-10mm hex impact attachment and still no go. And, yes I "lefty looseying" it. It's been 5yrs. since last work ( I know, I should have checked it more often, my bad ) and the other filler/drain plugs were tighter than they should have been, wonder if they used same old washers, so looking for what to do now. Anyone have similar experience? Appreciate your thoughts and input. Want to give tech buddy benefit of doubt 'til I know differently. THANKS again for help!
PS 2005 Lexus GX470, Frt. diff. drain plug, 10mm hex w/ copper/brass washer/gasket @ 48ft-lbf.

 

tap it with a rubber hammer several times. I had to cut a notch in my GS300 first time I did it many years ago. then used a flathead to back it off

 

using a ratchet handle at a right angle did not work for me, take tire off and approached directly with electric impact wrench..

 

I always felt that they never actually do the diff drain till you start getting up there in mileage, alot of times they just wager that you would never check and even if you did there is no way to really say they did or didn't or you would probably be doing it yourself.

let give them the benefit of the doubt though since its your buddy tech =)

I would not take an impact to it, bet there is a chance of cracking part the case if the bolt doesn't budge or breaking the bolt itself. I would get a long breaker bar and try again. with these old rusty things sometimes slower with more torque is better. if that doesn't work find a pipe to slip over the breaker bar and try again, they get really tight over time if they haven't been removed lately.

at some point if they did do it they should have replaced the gasket and usually they replace the plug every few times as it gets all messed up and difficult to remove the next times.

I have heard of tapping on it with a hammer helping free it up, also heard of impacts working but I don't use an impact myself.
try with the breaker bar though the impact probably wont do it unless you have a shop strength one.
you could try a little heat on the casing around the bolt and then try turning it to help it break free but not everyone is handy with a torch.

for o2 sensors what I do is let the car sit for 20 min and wear long sleeves and undo them while they are hot they come out so much easier. if you try and remove the o2 off a cold exhaust, you will have a much harder experience.

also if you have not already, remove the fill plug first. it helps the fluid drain easier cause air can get in, but more importantly you know you will be able to fill it again once you get the drain plug off.
wouldn't want to drain all that oil to have a frozen fill plug and have to tow it to a shop now would ya? nope

the same front differential is used in most 4runners, tacoma's, tundra's etc.., so you can also search google for "toyota stuck drain plug front diff" and get info from other forums.

 

Tap with a hammer to flatten out the washer, which releases the pressure, and it should back right out. This is why I question all those guys that voluntarily switch their drain plugs to allen key fitting style, if one gets stuck, I'd much rather have a socket end on it.

 

Thanks for all the good tips! Local transmission shop buddies also suggested heat and longer breaker bar, so will give a try and let you know how it comes out. Worried about really screwing things up worse than they are. I was afraid of working on Lexus when new, didn't have FSM 'til just recently as I thought price would go down, it didn't. Woulda, coulda, shoulda. My own fault for trusting someone else to care more about my rig than I do, never again. Thanks again!

 

I've had the same problem. Penetrating fluid, a breaker bar, a blowtorch on the case with ice on the plug weren't enough to get it out. I brought it to a shop and they just rounded out the hex hole.

The shop ended up sucking the fluid out of the fill hole and refilling it. I'll probably have to drill out the plug.

 

Yea, I already rounded mine out. Hopefully I can get a link or replacement part for a bolt type plug.

 

+1

I think that happens all the time, especially in a situation where someone brings one in at 30k miles.

 

So talked to Lexus parts guys and they said to give face of plug sharp rap w/ flat face of ball pein hammer, mine 16 ozs., to free tension. Worked great. They weren't sure why it works, but been their solution and works MOST of the time. popped free w/ 18 in.x 1/2 in. breaker bar w/ 1/2 in. 10 mm impact hex head and minimal force. Also, their solution for plugs that don't respond well, chisel around outside of plug edge driving in counterclockwise direction to free up. Thank goodness didn't have to do that as might have to do some serious whacking that way. Bad news, only 1 qt. drained out, took 1.5 qt. to fill per specs. Damn. no one touches my rig anymore! Thanks for all your input and help. Now to do auto. trans., power steering and brake fluid and should be good to go.

 

See my previous post to see why it works, glad to hear you got it!

 

You were/are right, flattened malleable washer enough to release pressure/tension allowing plug to pop free. I have same set-up on '98 Taco 4x4, but don't remember this being an issue. Got a replacement plug and washer as kinda buggered hex slot using impact gun. Hoping not going to have a problem getting 5 mm hex off " CHECK" plug in A/T. Supposed to only be torqued to 15 ft-lbf, but we'll see. It has a crush washer, so hopefully should be ok. Thanks for input/help. I know a lot about a few things and a little about a lot of things, but I don't know it all about anything, so always learning.

 

I was doubtful at first but whaddyaknow worked like a charm!