figs rotors
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 608
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From: atl
you think having them on the GS would be worth it? I like the idea of dropping the unsprung weight. It doesn’t make doing the brakes any more difficult right? In other words nothing special one would need to know when it comes time for new pads. I guess the figs doesn’t have the wire sensor indicator thing being the only diff?
also what pads would you use with them on the gsf on the street. I like an aggressive bite but not at the expense of huge noise. Any suggestions?
also what pads would you use with them on the gsf on the street. I like an aggressive bite but not at the expense of huge noise. Any suggestions?
There's nothing special until you need to replace the rings. That job isn't something your typical brake tech is going to like. I recently did mine because I ran PM HC+800s and they killed the rotors before the pads were worn out. I got G-LOC race pads from Figs to replace the HC+800, but they were both too noisy and I wasn't able to keep a decent transfer layer on the rotors with them, so I went cheap and got Powerstop Z32 pads from Rock Auto. They're working OK, the feel is a little less than I like, but I also have to replace my brake booster because it's not holding vacuum, so the feel of any pad right now isn't going to be the best. Too many other projects getting in the way of getting the new brake booster in the car.
There is also a carbon option if you really want to drop some weight on the front, but honestly, I wouldn't run carbon rotors on the street. Way too expensive for a consumable when I'm not using a sponsor's money to pay for them.
There is also a carbon option if you really want to drop some weight on the front, but honestly, I wouldn't run carbon rotors on the street. Way too expensive for a consumable when I'm not using a sponsor's money to pay for them.
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 19
Likes: 12
From: California
There's nothing special until you need to replace the rings. That job isn't something your typical brake tech is going to like. I recently did mine because I ran PM HC+800s and they killed the rotors before the pads were worn out. I got G-LOC race pads from Figs to replace the HC+800, but they were both too noisy and I wasn't able to keep a decent transfer layer on the rotors with them, so I went cheap and got Powerstop Z32 pads from Rock Auto. They're working OK, the feel is a little less than I like, but I also have to replace my brake booster because it's not holding vacuum, so the feel of any pad right now isn't going to be the best. Too many other projects getting in the way of getting the new brake booster in the car.
There is also a carbon option if you really want to drop some weight on the front, but honestly, I wouldn't run carbon rotors on the street. Way too expensive for a consumable when I'm not using a sponsor's money to pay for them.
There is also a carbon option if you really want to drop some weight on the front, but honestly, I wouldn't run carbon rotors on the street. Way too expensive for a consumable when I'm not using a sponsor's money to pay for them.
I do not have personal experience with Brembo branded pads. I can't say what they do well or what they don't do well at all.
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 264
Likes: 77
From: CA
There's nothing special until you need to replace the rings. That job isn't something your typical brake tech is going to like. I recently did mine because I ran PM HC+800s and they killed the rotors before the pads were worn out. I got G-LOC race pads from Figs to replace the HC+800, but they were both too noisy and I wasn't able to keep a decent transfer layer on the rotors with them, so I went cheap and got Powerstop Z32 pads from Rock Auto. They're working OK, the feel is a little less than I like, but I also have to replace my brake booster because it's not holding vacuum, so the feel of any pad right now isn't going to be the best. Too many other projects getting in the way of getting the new brake booster in the car.
There is also a carbon option if you really want to drop some weight on the front, but honestly, I wouldn't run carbon rotors on the street. Way too expensive for a consumable when I'm not using a sponsor's money to pay for them.
There is also a carbon option if you really want to drop some weight on the front, but honestly, I wouldn't run carbon rotors on the street. Way too expensive for a consumable when I'm not using a sponsor's money to pay for them.
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Depends on your skill level and access to tools. You absolutely need a reliable torque wrench, and it's easiest if you can put the car in the air with a lift or with jackstands. There's no magic to the process, it's on Racing Brake's website. https://racingbrake.com/two-piece-ro...-instructions/
I just removed the rotors, put them on the hubs backward, disassembled and tossed the old hardware and rings, and installed/torqued to spec the new hardware and rings. Pretty simple once you're set up.
I just removed the rotors, put them on the hubs backward, disassembled and tossed the old hardware and rings, and installed/torqued to spec the new hardware and rings. Pretty simple once you're set up.
Last edited by lobuxracer; Mar 29, 2022 at 12:05 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 842
Likes: 717
From: MD
I have the figs rotors on my RCF. I didn't really like the RB XT910 pads that came with them (were cheap so gave them a shot). They groaned on the street and were completely toast after 3 days of HPDE, so basically only lasted 6 weeks for me. I was in the novice HPDE1 group, so far from a pro btw.
I did order up some Endless MX72+ pads from Nengun and those things are awesome. They feel great on the street, smooth and confident. Have held up on the track as well, my limiting factor now is tire traction. RR sells Endless pads, but they are the track compound, and other US vendors with the MX72 seem to have a large markup on those.
Both RR and Figs rotors are within a half a pound of each other for a full set. Some minor differences, but with Figs your pad selection is a bit more limited due to the hard iron they are made of. Ceramic pads need not apply. However, if you're in the market for 2-piece rotors, you're probably not cross shopping cheap pads either, so mostly a non-issue. I think a vendor put together a video comparing the different pads recently, basically Endless is the benchmark and others were compared to that.
I did order up some Endless MX72+ pads from Nengun and those things are awesome. They feel great on the street, smooth and confident. Have held up on the track as well, my limiting factor now is tire traction. RR sells Endless pads, but they are the track compound, and other US vendors with the MX72 seem to have a large markup on those.
Both RR and Figs rotors are within a half a pound of each other for a full set. Some minor differences, but with Figs your pad selection is a bit more limited due to the hard iron they are made of. Ceramic pads need not apply. However, if you're in the market for 2-piece rotors, you're probably not cross shopping cheap pads either, so mostly a non-issue. I think a vendor put together a video comparing the different pads recently, basically Endless is the benchmark and others were compared to that.
Disagree on the ceramic pads comment. I'm running them on my IS F after the G-LOC pads were wearing the new rings like they were soft cheese. The pedal pressure is more than I would prefer, but the price was stupid cheap, they maintain a good transfer layer, and they work fine for street duty. IME, there are no good crossover pads for cars in this weight class, with the caveat I have not run MX-72s. The biggest problem I've had with race pads is maintaining a transfer layer during street driving. They are so abrasive they'll strip the transfer layer in a few days of cool operation.
Disagree on the ceramic pads comment. I'm running them on my IS F after the G-LOC pads were wearing the new rings like they were soft cheese. The pedal pressure is more than I would prefer, but the price was stupid cheap, they maintain a good transfer layer, and they work fine for street duty. IME, there are no good crossover pads for cars in this weight class, with the caveat I have not run MX-72s. The biggest problem I've had with race pads is maintaining a transfer layer during street driving. They are so abrasive they'll strip the transfer layer in a few days of cool operation.
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 842
Likes: 717
From: MD
Disagree on the ceramic pads comment. I'm running them on my IS F after the G-LOC pads were wearing the new rings like they were soft cheese. The pedal pressure is more than I would prefer, but the price was stupid cheap, they maintain a good transfer layer, and they work fine for street duty. IME, there are no good crossover pads for cars in this weight class, with the caveat I have not run MX-72s. The biggest problem I've had with race pads is maintaining a transfer layer during street driving. They are so abrasive they'll strip the transfer layer in a few days of cool operation.
R8 G-LOC pads. They wear rotors like nothing on the street. Same thing as XP12s (I have run those on the street too). Relationship to Carbotech makes sense. The rear pads are too big, and extend past the edge of the rotor. I haven't bothered to tell Figs about it yet, been busy with other stuff, but the first set of rears I got from Carbotech many years ago had the same issue.
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