cyfi66

Just a heads up since these cars are going to start getting out of the warranty period and this is something I have been researching a bit lately.

In case you didn't know, Toyota and many other manufacturers have begun "sealing" transmissions and claiming the fluid is "lifetime" meaning never needs service. No dipstick, but there is still a drain plug and a fill plug. They do this for a few reasons from what I gathered:

1. Incompetent mechanics tend to screw up the transmission fluid service by using the wrong type of fluid, getting the fluid level incorrect or introducing contaminants into the fluid when replacing. This causes and increase in warranty claims. I am guessing this was discovered over time as manufacturers analyzed the transmissions that were returned to them after warranty replacement. The replacement procedure for transmission fluid is somewhat complicated compared to oil change and leaves more room for error. By sealing the transmission this risk goes away.
2. So they can advertise a lower overall ownership cost. If you don't need to service the transmission that is an expenditure that is no longer incurred by the customer over the life of the car.
3. Environmental reasons. Less waste oil over the life of a car is probably an objective when designing the life cycle of a car as it relates to government regulations. For example they can probably get away with using a higher capacity engine oil system if they can reduce the fluid waste in other parts of the car (this is just a guess).

This is fine when you design a car to last through the warranty period and maybe to 150,000 miles (this is when the factory recommended service schedule ends). But when you want to keep your car running well and operating for as long as possible this idea falls flat. Manufacturers know there is a diminishing benefit to keeping their vehicles operating beyond 150,000 miles and brand reputation is probably fine if their cars make it that far.

Long story short: No fluid is going to last forever, this is a serviceable item and should be changed regularly. In my personal opinion every 30,000 miles, but thats just an opinion because Lexus doesn't provide any guidance here.

I have heard that some dealerships will perform the fluid change and some won't. If you have the ability to do it yourself, do it! A drain and fill will not get all of the fluid out but its sure better than doing nothing at all.

If there is interest I can post a full how to on the drain and fill/ fluid level setting procedure. It is not that difficult and does not require a scan tool or anything and can be done in your garage. The fluid level setting is the most important and difficult part but its really not that bad.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...tructions.html.

Post 99 has the instructions. The temperature range for the GS F is a bit higher than the IS F.

The reason they went to a lifetime fill in the US is the EPA, and it's very likely the same reason they went to the pink coolant. Other markets do not have a lifetime fill. I had my IS F's ATF tested by Blackstone at ~150k miles. It was still good. The red dye was oxidized for sure, but viscosity was good, and insolubles were not high.

The biggest issue with these gearboxes is getting the level right. As everything wears inside the level drops a little, and even 4 ounces low will cause flare when the gearbox is cold. More than that and you'll have it stick in gear around turns and generally be a PITA. I usually set it by the book, then add 4 ounces to accommodate wear. I also stopped using Toyota branded WS, and have been using Valvoline's WS equivalent. I did the GS F at 100k miles just because, and the IS F gets a pan swap every 50k now. I did a full pan drop and filter change at about 165k miles on the IS F. I needed 5.5 quarts to refill it. The GS F only needed 4.5 quarts when I did it.

Moos0004

I change mine at 70k miles. I Did 2 flush with vavoline, 1 flush with amsoil and fill with amsoil. Don't need to do the flush but I had the fluid. I found The level is easy to get right, you just have to pin the obd and move the gears per video until up to temp and you have to keep the engine running when you open to drain the over fill other you will underfilled the tranny. https://youtube.com/shorts/3K49grI1pZQ?feature=share

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The best news about this is the temperature for the GS F is much higher than the IS F. I had to let the car sit overnight to cool enough to get in the proper range for the IS F. GS F isn't nearly as frustrating. I wish they'd update the IS F pan to the GS F spec so the IS F could use the same temperature range. I almost have to wait for winter to get the IS F cold enough. I had to put the GS F in D and hold the brake on while revving the engine up to 2K rpm to get heat into the fluid, and this was after idling for 10 minutes. Can't get away with that on the IS F.

Temp range for the GS F (and RC F, IS500) is 113F to 133F, 45C to 56C.
Temp range for the IS F (all MYs) is 95F to 108F, 35C to 42C.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

How did you do that With the Lexus brake/gas pedal interlock, my engine shuts down if I brake and throttle at the same time. Maybe only works when not moving or from a dead stop❓

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Dead stop on jackstands. Yes, if I brake and apply throttle at the same time in the GS F while moving, it kills the throttle and puts up a warning on the multidisplay.

Moos0004

Why would you need to do that? I had no issue getting up to temp with just following the instructions to cycle between the gears.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

It was 40F in the garage. I let it idle for 10 minutes after cycling the gears. It was still stupid cold. I put it in D, hit the brakes, and revved to 2k rpm for 2 minutes and finally got it up to temperature.

cyfi66

Wow I had no idea, do you happen to have the service interval for non US vehicles? Oil analysis is definitely a good idea, I could see the results varying depending on how the car is used and the environment its driven and stored in. And yes the temperature range is a problem for me even for the GSF since in Phoenix the overnight lows have been around 100 degrees and my garage is hot as F. Typical temperature in the garage is over 100 degrees so I had very little time to get the fluid level adjusted. Totally impractical for a service shop. There must be a reason that the overflow tube is calibrated for such a low temperature, other manufacturers do the same.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I have wondered about this more than once. Hard to imagine how the desert Southwest deals with some of these, especially the IS F. I did my IS once in summer and vowed never again because it got so hot so fast, I was pushing the edge of the window in less than 3 minutes. I was at spec temperature in less than a minute. Now I make sure I park the car, put it on stands, and take care of it first thing in the morning at the coolest part of the day, or wait until winter when it's pretty cold so I have plenty of time to get to the right temperature without shooting past it in a matter of seconds.

Pittsy

The shop here at Bell Lexus in Scottsdale AZ is air conditioned. Probably takes a while for the temp to come down though.