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DIY Replacing a Stud, easy with tool, my first time.
I ordered this harbor freight ball joint tool to make removing and installing the stud super easy, instead of banging with a hammer. Don't mind my dirty wheels, car needs a wash. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...=7,931,157,665
The problem, cross threaded stud, I tried to fix, but needs to be replaced.
1) Remove the wheel. I first loosen the nuts with the wheel on the ground, then jack it up. I have a handy drill attachment to make lifting the car much easier:
2) Remove the two caliper bolts on the back side of the caliper/rotor. I use my torque wrench with extended handle.
4) Set aside the caliper, I rest it on a bucket.
5) Bang the back of the rotor with mallet to pop it off. I recommend a 4lb mallet.
6) Use ball joint tool to pop out the stud
6) Press the new stud in with the ball joint tool, double check that it's fully seated on the back side
7) Slide the caliper back on, and put the two bolts back in. Manual says torque to 100 ft/lb, but just tighten it as much as possible. The part of my caliper with the missing paint is when the tire shop first put on my wheel without spacers, it shaved the paint off. I'll have to repaint the calipers this summer. Don't worry I put the 5mm spacer back on, not pictured below
8) put wheel back on and tighten lugs in star pattern, torque to 76 ft/lb
Last edited by peasodos; Jan 26, 2020 at 03:25 PM.
great write up! I had a major headache last year trying to figure this out but found the ball joint separator trick from a Tacoma forum.
what I did find was that running a 5mm spacer up front caused many issues for my aftermarket wheels since the lug studs from factory were fairly short, resulting to only 4-5 turns on the lug nut.
while I didn't want to use ARP studs since those were way too long, I found an alternative that would just give me enough extra length and threads to keep me sane - Dorman 610-462
pressing those dorman studs in place gave me an extra 3-4 turns in the end. problem solved - perhaps this may help!
great write up! I had a major headache last year trying to figure this out but found the ball joint separator trick from a Tacoma forum.
what I did find was that running a 5mm spacer up front caused many issues for my aftermarket wheels since the lug studs from factory were fairly short, resulting to only 4-5 turns on the lug nut.
while I didn't want to use ARP studs since those were way too long, I found an alternative that would just give me enough extra length and threads to keep me sane - Dorman 610-462
pressing those dorman studs in place gave me an extra 3-4 turns in the end. problem solved - perhaps this may help!
My H&R 5 mm spacers came with extended studs. It's one of the damaged extended studs that I was replacing. It was the shop that installed the extended studs, that cross threaded it, last year. I had no idea until I took my wheel off to diagnose a slow tire leak. I would not run a 5mm spacer on factory studs.
Here is the part number: H&R 10656014
They also sell the replacement studs.
I highly recommend the H&R Spacers!
Last edited by peasodos; Jan 28, 2020 at 02:57 PM.
I did want to buy the H&R kit but I had some 5mm spacers available - I did consider sourcing the replacement studs but the wait was too long (Canada ). the dormans were the next best option!
hope to eventually replace all 4 corners with H&R sets for sure.
Stock stud is 1 7/8 inch.
H&R is about 2 1/16 inch
The H&R is not much longer, but the factory stud tapers off on the end and the H&R stud has 4-5 extra threads. It not necessarily about the length, it's about having enough thread engagement. Basically the extra threads compensate for the thickness of the spacer.
Left is factory stud, Right is the H&R extended stud.
Last edited by peasodos; Jan 28, 2020 at 02:55 PM.
Thank you so much! I didn't think something this simple existed, thought I was going to have to ask a fabricator to make me one.
I've had mine for about 3 years, not something you find at your local hardware store, but Amazon has everything. Those stock car jacks take like 40+ turns or something to raise the car, a pain in the *** when your trying to rotate your own tires, but the drill makes quick work of it. I also use my spare as a temp place holder when rotating my own tire, that I do about every 10k miles(same as oil change).
I've had mine for about 3 years, not something you find at your local hardware store, but Amazon has everything. Those stock car jacks take like 40+ turns or something to raise the car, a pain in the *** when your trying to rotate your own tires, but the drill makes quick work of it. I also use my spare as a temp place holder when rotating my own tire, that I do about every 10k miles(same as oil change).
You’ve inspired me to look for a solution I can keep with me on the road. At home you get to decide when to change your tires. But out on the road you might find yourself in some very bad weather, a sketchy neighborhood you’re forced to pull into, or even on the side of a busy highway where you’re at the mercy of motorists flying by at 70+. Time is of the essence to change your tire in many situations, and the faster and easier you can do it, the better. So maybe a battery powered drill with an attachment like yours is just the thing to carry.
You’ve inspired me to look for a solution I can keep with me on the road. At home you get to decide when to change your tires. But out on the road you might find yourself in some very bad weather, a sketchy neighborhood you’re forced to pull into, or even on the side of a busy highway where you’re at the mercy of motorists flying by at 70+. Time is of the essence to change your tire in many situations, and the faster and easier you can do it, the better. So maybe a battery powered drill with an attachment like yours is just the thing to carry.
I don't carry my drill in the trunk. If I had to change the tire on the side of the road I'll just do it the old fashioned way, but you could attach a tire iron to the tool or something else to spin it faster by hand. With the car wrench you have to keep sticking it in the hole, turn, remove it, stick it in the other side of the hole, turn ect...because the wrench bottoms out at the ground until you get it high enough to clear.
You’ve inspired me to look for a solution I can keep with me on the road. At home you get to decide when to change your tires. But out on the road you might find yourself in some very bad weather, a sketchy neighborhood you’re forced to pull into, or even on the side of a busy highway where you’re at the mercy of motorists flying by at 70+. Time is of the essence to change your tire in many situations, and the faster and easier you can do it, the better. So maybe a battery powered drill with an attachment like yours is just the thing to carry.
Originally Posted by peasodos
I don't carry my drill in the trunk. If I had to change the tire on the side of the road I'll just do it the old fashioned way, but you could attach a tire iron to the tool or something else to spin it faster by hand. With the car wrench you have to keep sticking it in the hole, turn, remove it, stick it in the other side of the hole, turn ect...because the wrench bottoms out at the ground until you get it high enough to clear.
Since the adapter attaches to the OE jack with a bolt and nut you would always have to make sure to carry a drill with you that is charged and ready, otherwise you couldn't operate the jack. And, unless you carried tools to remove the adapter you couldn't use the OE jack handle with the jack.
DIY Replacing a Stud, easy with tool, my first time.
). the dormans were the next best option!
