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Since the adapter attaches to the OE jack with a bolt and nut you would always have to make sure to carry a drill with you that is charged and ready, otherwise you couldn't operate the jack. And, unless you carried tools to remove the adapter you couldn't use the OE jack handle with the jack.
That bolt is on by hand, I don't tighten it down when I use it with the drill. I put it on/off by hand, but when I put the jack back I take the adapter off.
That bolt is on by hand, I don't tighten it down when I use it with the drill. I put it on/off by hand, but when I put the jack back I take the adapter off.
I keep a 1/2 dewalt impact in my tool box to remove lug nuts. Now with the adapter for the jack, I think my "going out of town" toolbox is pretty complete.
Thanks for the writeup peasodos! I did the rear axle today using your guide. The parking brake gets in the way so it's an extra step.
Here's the rear axle with the rotor taken off. You can see the drum parking brake.
With the parking brake in the way, the tool can't sit flush and presses against the brake as it is tightened. I was worried it would damage the drum brake.
I took the spring and the star adjuster off to make room for the tool.
You can now fit the tool into place without it pressing against the drum pads. You have to keep rotating the axle so that the stud you are working on is aligned with that space.
If you have an impact wrench, it makes pressing the studs into place much faster.
What's the correct torque settings for the rear caliper? I torqued the 17mm (I think) to 85ft/lb, and the 14mm to 50ft/lb.
Thanks for the writeup peasodos! I did the rear axle today using your guide. The parking brake gets in the way so it's an extra step.
Interesting I had no idea the rear parking brake was a drum and shoe, with the inside of the rotor. I guess this is why the oem rear rotor costs more than the oem 1 piece front rotor.
From the manual:
The smaller bolts that hold the caliper to the main mounting bracket is 20ft/lb.
The two larger bolts that hold the entire brake assembly is 92 ft/lb
I would not worry about over tightening the smaller bolt at least you didn't strip/break it.
The larger bolts I just tighten it as tight as possible.
Last edited by peasodos; Feb 15, 2020 at 06:27 PM.
6) Press the new stud in with the ball joint tool, double check that it's fully seated on the back side
7) Slide the caliper back on, and put the two bolts back in. Manual says torque to 100 ft/lb, but just tighten it as much as possible. The part of my caliper with the missing paint is when the tire shop first put on my wheel without spacers, it shaved the paint off. I'll have to repaint the calipers this summer. Don't worry I put the 5mm spacer back on, not pictured below
@peasodos when you pressed the new stud in did you do it with only the ball joint remover tool? No using an extra lug nut + washers to pull it in, right? Also did you use just a socket wrench for activating the ball joint remover tool or did you use impact/air tools?
