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TPMS problem. Error C2126 after replace sensor with Denso 550-0105

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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 10:21 AM
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Default TPMS problem. Error C2126 after replace sensor with Denso 550-0105

Hi. In my 2013 Lexus GS450h I had the error code C2123 LEXUS Code - No Signal from Transmitter ID 3 In Main Mode. With techstream i saw that ID3 tire infaltion pressure says N/A. I bought a denso 550-0105 sensor in rockauto and I registered it with carista. Error C2123 gone, but now i get error C2126, Transmitter ID not Received in Main Mode. I have tried to delete it with both carista and teachstream but it cannot be done, it automatically reappears. However when I had the c2123 error code I could delete it although it reappeared after a few kilometers. What could be the problem? It's like I have to reset the ECU but I don't know how to do it.. I hope you can help me. Thank you very much in advance
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bmwjavier
Hi. In my 2013 Lexus GS450h I had the error code C2123 LEXUS Code - No Signal from Transmitter ID 3 In Main Mode. With techstream i saw that ID3 tire infaltion pressure says N/A. I bought a denso 550-0105 sensor in rockauto and I registered it with carista. Error C2123 gone, but now i get error C2126, Transmitter ID not Received in Main Mode. I have tried to delete it with both carista and teachstream but it cannot be done, it automatically reappears. However when I had the c2123 error code I could delete it although it reappeared after a few kilometers. What could be the problem? It's like I have to reset the ECU but I don't know how to do it.. I hope you can help me. Thank you very much in advance
It doesn’t seem to happen all the time but sometimes you also need to have an actual tire scan tool. After you program the sensors into the ECU immediately after you need to rescan each sensor so that the ECU receives the actual signal. Also a lot of fakes out there.
https://www.dillvalves.com/wp-conten...s/RL-A1239.pdf
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lexo98
It doesn’t seem to happen all the time but sometimes you also need to have an actual tire scan tool. After you program the sensors into the ECU immediately after you need to rescan each sensor so that the ECU receives the actual signal. Also a lot of fakes out there.
https://www.dillvalves.com/wp-conten...s/RL-A1239.pdf

Yes, correct, sometimes even the Snap-On and Matco scanners have a separate program needed for the Tire sensor programming.
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lexo98
It doesn’t seem to happen all the time but sometimes you also need to have an actual tire scan tool. After you program the sensors into the ECU immediately after you need to rescan each sensor so that the ECU receives the actual signal. Also a lot of fakes out there.
https://www.dillvalves.com/wp-conten...s/RL-A1239.pdf
Originally Posted by jgscott
Yes, correct, sometimes even the Snap-On and Matco scanners have a separate program needed for the Tire sensor programming.

I have found this information. Do you think that by doing this procedure I can solve the problem?

These sensors are shipped "asleep" to save the battery and give them longer shelf life. You must WAKE THE BATTERY UP before your car's system will detect the sensor and read it. If you don't "wake it up," it looks and acts just like a dead battery, i.e. it "plays possum."

If the shop who installs these has newer TPMS tools, they can probably trigger the sensor to "wake it up" using their tool. If you are a DIYer or the shop has an older TPMS tool, you have to wake the sensor up the old-fashioned way. Install the sensor and inflate the tire to the proper specs. Mount the inflated tire on the vehicle so the sensor is in proper range. THEN, rapidly deflate the tire for about 30 seconds. This should deflate the tire by at least 20 pounds. Reinflate the tire to proper specs and proceed with your tool trigger and, or, relearn procedure. Your tool should be able to see the sensor within minutes, if not immediately. Don't forget to copy down the sensor ID before you mount it in the tire.

This procedure worked like a charm for me on my 2010 Prius. At first TechStream could not "see" the sensor, even though I had properly entered the new ID. As soon as I "woke it up" by quickly releasing about 20 pounds of pressure, TechStream started to read it. SWEET.



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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 06:02 PM
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You can try it. Pretty much what I said earlier, but you can try the deflate inflate method and see if it works.
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