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Welcome to the CL forum.
So were those pictures from techstream taken when the engine was running? It clearly shows your rpms near 1K and the 12V battery voltage reading to be 14V, which would only happen if your vehicle was started.
If not, does your starter crank the engine at all? You should hear the vehicle trying to start.
Are there any errors that show up on your dash if you put the car in accessory mode (when you don't have your foot on the brake and you press the start button)?
Check this video out (from Toyota Prius, which shares a lot of the same technology):
^I would suggest that you start by doing something relatively easy - inspect/cleaning your Mass Airflow Sensor.
Next, try cleaning out your throttle body:
If the engine still doesn't turn over after those two things, it could be a fuel pump issue (service bulletin taken from a RX 450h), but I would try the above steps first: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...33806-9999.pdf
~ im2bz2p345
So were those pictures from techstream taken when the engine was running? It clearly shows your rpms near 1K and the 12V battery voltage reading to be 14V, which would only happen if your vehicle was started.
If not, does your starter crank the engine at all? You should hear the vehicle trying to start.
Are there any errors that show up on your dash if you put the car in accessory mode (when you don't have your foot on the brake and you press the start button)?
Check this video out (from Toyota Prius, which shares a lot of the same technology):
^I would suggest that you start by doing something relatively easy - inspect/cleaning your Mass Airflow Sensor.
Next, try cleaning out your throttle body:
If the engine still doesn't turn over after those two things, it could be a fuel pump issue (service bulletin taken from a RX 450h), but I would try the above steps first: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...33806-9999.pdf
~ im2bz2p345
Last edited by Im2bz2p345; Dec 4, 2021 at 12:29 PM.
Please do us a favor and report back after you figure out the issue. It will help others who experience a similar problem/the same codes. We don't come across too many problems/codes thrown with these engines since they are fairly bulletproof.
~ Im2bz2p345
~ Im2bz2p345
Any symptoms beforehand? When did it start / happen? Weird noises, increased consumption, rough running at any point, whatever? Are you sure that these are all the codes? If it's attempting to start (like above - running for X seconds), how does it sound (do NOT start it right away to make a video - just recall, read the rest in the meantime)? did you recently change gas stations or the fuel type or something? Basically - is there anything that you think might be potentially of note that you haven't shared?
Be aware that trying to start it too many times will drain the HV battery (no, it doesn't use the 12v to start), at which point you're looking at a dealership visit OR charging the HV battery yourself (i.e. disassembly, charging modules by hand OR fitting a charger harness for Prolong or some other brand or a DIY charger or whatever). In other words - try not to make it way more expensive than it needs to be.
During any start attempt, it's best to have techstream (or whatever else can read the things of interest and is know to be reading them properly) fitted with the engine ECU live data open. Watch the misfire counters and the fuel pressures. If there are misfire counters on a specific cylinder, it's time to check sparks & coils at the very least. Before you attempt starting, read on though:
AFAIK the 4th gen gs450h has a low pressure fuel sensor on the delivery "pipe" for the port injectors - this does mean that having the car in IG ON (Ignition ON, double press the start button WITHOUT stepping on the brake pedal, one press gets you in ACC (accessory mode)) MIGHT activate the low pressure fuel pump (it's on the 12v system but the engine ECU tells the fuel pump ECU when to actually run). Check the reading via techstream.
How much gas is in it (if kind of low - possibly the fuel pump can't get fuel from the sub-tank or something like that)? If it's not around full (i.e. below 3/4 full), try filling it up a bit first - the fuel goes straight into the main tank. Check the fuel pressure reading again in case it was bad/nonexistent the first time. If it was bad but is fine now (or you couldn't get a reading and don't want to do 3 more steps below just in case), try starting.
Then, or beforehand if you want:
-Change the air filter, if it hasn't been changed recently. Check that no dust trails are going past it - if they are, investigate. AFAIK the 4th gen (i.e. yours) has a rubber gasket along the ends of the filter, so that shouldn't be the case either way.
-Clean the MAF with a MAF cleaning spray. Don't touch it (the hot wire, that is), there should be nothing (no dirt, no debris, etc) but potentially oil vapors on it - the spray will take care of that.
-Clean the throttle body - no need to take it off the intake manifold. MAF spray on a towel that won't leave any traces of itself should be fine (i.e. pretty much anything goes) should do it. You can push open the throttle by hand (only opens one way), just don't do it with the car turned on via the start button in any capacity - wouldn't want to do it while it's live.
Now try starting. Make sure that you're logging.
If the above doesn't work OR you're feeling like it (it's way harder than the rest), check the spark plugs, replace if necessary. Look up how it's done, don't rush it. The intake manifold is not the most convenient thing to remove. OEM or equivalent only - they're expensive for a reason. DO NOT get the NGK Ruthenium or whatever they were called - noted here as causing trouble on the IS-F, which has a very similar engine.
These two codes basically tell you "engine failed to start" (which means "literally everything under the sun is possible") + "low engine power" (_very_ low engine power for the car to complain). On priuschat it's commonly a dirty MAF or something stupid like that - go figure why it's not throwing fuel trim codes to let you know that something might be wrong. In the case of the LS600h it could also be a burnt transmission input damper clutch, but afaik that's the only car that burns that clutch - the rest of the cars get rattly/eject the damper's springs/etc - you'd know.
Basically - check everything that can be easily checked beforehand, with the least amount of engine start attempts possible and while logging misfires and fuel pressures (out of the high pressure pump AND the low pressure pump) to check for any potential leads.
If you're unsure about anything / generally confused, write here.
Be aware that trying to start it too many times will drain the HV battery (no, it doesn't use the 12v to start), at which point you're looking at a dealership visit OR charging the HV battery yourself (i.e. disassembly, charging modules by hand OR fitting a charger harness for Prolong or some other brand or a DIY charger or whatever). In other words - try not to make it way more expensive than it needs to be.
During any start attempt, it's best to have techstream (or whatever else can read the things of interest and is know to be reading them properly) fitted with the engine ECU live data open. Watch the misfire counters and the fuel pressures. If there are misfire counters on a specific cylinder, it's time to check sparks & coils at the very least. Before you attempt starting, read on though:
AFAIK the 4th gen gs450h has a low pressure fuel sensor on the delivery "pipe" for the port injectors - this does mean that having the car in IG ON (Ignition ON, double press the start button WITHOUT stepping on the brake pedal, one press gets you in ACC (accessory mode)) MIGHT activate the low pressure fuel pump (it's on the 12v system but the engine ECU tells the fuel pump ECU when to actually run). Check the reading via techstream.
How much gas is in it (if kind of low - possibly the fuel pump can't get fuel from the sub-tank or something like that)? If it's not around full (i.e. below 3/4 full), try filling it up a bit first - the fuel goes straight into the main tank. Check the fuel pressure reading again in case it was bad/nonexistent the first time. If it was bad but is fine now (or you couldn't get a reading and don't want to do 3 more steps below just in case), try starting.
Then, or beforehand if you want:
-Change the air filter, if it hasn't been changed recently. Check that no dust trails are going past it - if they are, investigate. AFAIK the 4th gen (i.e. yours) has a rubber gasket along the ends of the filter, so that shouldn't be the case either way.
-Clean the MAF with a MAF cleaning spray. Don't touch it (the hot wire, that is), there should be nothing (no dirt, no debris, etc) but potentially oil vapors on it - the spray will take care of that.
-Clean the throttle body - no need to take it off the intake manifold. MAF spray on a towel that won't leave any traces of itself should be fine (i.e. pretty much anything goes) should do it. You can push open the throttle by hand (only opens one way), just don't do it with the car turned on via the start button in any capacity - wouldn't want to do it while it's live.
Now try starting. Make sure that you're logging.
If the above doesn't work OR you're feeling like it (it's way harder than the rest), check the spark plugs, replace if necessary. Look up how it's done, don't rush it. The intake manifold is not the most convenient thing to remove. OEM or equivalent only - they're expensive for a reason. DO NOT get the NGK Ruthenium or whatever they were called - noted here as causing trouble on the IS-F, which has a very similar engine.
These two codes basically tell you "engine failed to start" (which means "literally everything under the sun is possible") + "low engine power" (_very_ low engine power for the car to complain). On priuschat it's commonly a dirty MAF or something stupid like that - go figure why it's not throwing fuel trim codes to let you know that something might be wrong. In the case of the LS600h it could also be a burnt transmission input damper clutch, but afaik that's the only car that burns that clutch - the rest of the cars get rattly/eject the damper's springs/etc - you'd know.
Basically - check everything that can be easily checked beforehand, with the least amount of engine start attempts possible and while logging misfires and fuel pressures (out of the high pressure pump AND the low pressure pump) to check for any potential leads.
If you're unsure about anything / generally confused, write here.
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