GS350 fuel filter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 472
Likes: 88
From: Arizona
Not sure it's really meant to be easily replaced. If I had to guess I'd say it's attached to the fuel pump assembly in the tank which would require you to pull the rear seats and open up the tank. Why do you think it needs changed?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 319
From: NSW
I believe 77024-30160 is the part number you seek. Mine gets replaced every 75KM too. Although my 75K service was completed by Lube Mobile so I'm not convinced it was even done.
As for how to do it, I can send you instructions but you'll need special service tool 09808-14030.
As for how to do it, I can send you instructions but you'll need special service tool 09808-14030.
Last edited by Cwang; Aug 21, 2019 at 04:50 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 472
Likes: 88
From: Arizona
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: AUS
Thanks Cwang, that helps. I'm just in the process of getting some quotes for a service and one of the places said they can't see the part on their usual parts supplier site so I thought I would ask around as there also seems to be very little info online
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 319
From: NSW
For some reason the part isn't described as a filter, rather as some part of the assembly - however on the IS the same looking bit is called a filter which is how I came up with the number. 'Lifetime' tranny oil, no fuel 'filters' etc highlights the transition Lexus USA are signalling towards making their vehicles 'disposable' in line with the market.
Pit Crew
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 210
Likes: 25
From: MD
I changed the fuel filter, which is integrated with the fuel pump assembly, on my 2013 GS a few days ago. It was actually pretty simple. After removing the seat and peeling back the insulation on the driver's side, carefully pry up the cap that covers the fuel pump assembly with a large flat-bladed screwdriver; it's held down with gooey stuff (I used rubber gloves, and changed them frequently to avoid getting sticky stuff on other things). Unplug the power cable and set the cap and cable aside. You may want to cover the cap with wax paper to prevent touching the gooey stuff.
Next, insert the same screwdriver into one of the slots on the retaining collar that locks the fuel pump assembly in place; the fancy tool that is used by Lexus, and which costs more than the filter itself, is not necessary. Just hold the blade at acute angle in any of the slots that are accessible and tap with a hammer to rotate until it comes loose (about 1/3 rotation, you'll see how it fits via friction).
FYI, the assembly is spring loaded and will pop up as soon as the collar is loose. Lift the assembly mostly out; there is a hose connection to the bottom of the assembly that pulls off when you squeeze the retainer with fingers. Keep in mind that the assembly is full of fuel, so hold it up to drain into the tank and have a plastic bag or container of some sort to catch the drips.
Wriggle the assembly out of the tank carefully (the float will be a bit in the way, but not too difficult to get it past the opening). Use a cigarette lighter to look inside the tank. LOL! Just kidding, unless you want to win a Darwin award!
Begin disassembly, including gently gently unsnapping the electrical connectors and un-clipping the various plastic retainers and hose. It is pretty straightforward; none of the clips or retainers can be put back in the wrong place. Be sure and remove all 3 of the o-rings you find, including the one on the fuel pump, which has to be removed from the top inside of the old plastic assembly. I didn't notice this and had to do the whole thing again when it wouldn't start and I figured out it was for lack of pressure.
Gently pry the c-clip off the spring-loaded rod, then pull apart and swap out the new assembly for the old. Again, everything fits only one way, so just go slow and don't force anything beyond the pressure needed to seat the o-rings. Replace all electrical connectors (also, one-way only), and that's it.
Once everything is together, wriggle back in place and insert fully, against the spring tension, into the tank. There are 2 small plastic hooks on the top of the assembly that grab the top edge of the tank and hold the assembly in place momentarily, until you can gently replace the retaining collar and tap until it is fully seated. Remove any residual gas spills and replace the insulation and seat. Voila!
The initial job, not counting my o-ring error, took about 30 minutes, working very slowly and carefully. The second time it took about 10, not counting 15 minutes of troubleshooting. The part, 77024-30160, was around $137. I think someone said Lexus gets $800 for the same job. Not a bad ROI...
Next, insert the same screwdriver into one of the slots on the retaining collar that locks the fuel pump assembly in place; the fancy tool that is used by Lexus, and which costs more than the filter itself, is not necessary. Just hold the blade at acute angle in any of the slots that are accessible and tap with a hammer to rotate until it comes loose (about 1/3 rotation, you'll see how it fits via friction).
FYI, the assembly is spring loaded and will pop up as soon as the collar is loose. Lift the assembly mostly out; there is a hose connection to the bottom of the assembly that pulls off when you squeeze the retainer with fingers. Keep in mind that the assembly is full of fuel, so hold it up to drain into the tank and have a plastic bag or container of some sort to catch the drips.
Wriggle the assembly out of the tank carefully (the float will be a bit in the way, but not too difficult to get it past the opening). Use a cigarette lighter to look inside the tank. LOL! Just kidding, unless you want to win a Darwin award!
Begin disassembly, including gently gently unsnapping the electrical connectors and un-clipping the various plastic retainers and hose. It is pretty straightforward; none of the clips or retainers can be put back in the wrong place. Be sure and remove all 3 of the o-rings you find, including the one on the fuel pump, which has to be removed from the top inside of the old plastic assembly. I didn't notice this and had to do the whole thing again when it wouldn't start and I figured out it was for lack of pressure.
Gently pry the c-clip off the spring-loaded rod, then pull apart and swap out the new assembly for the old. Again, everything fits only one way, so just go slow and don't force anything beyond the pressure needed to seat the o-rings. Replace all electrical connectors (also, one-way only), and that's it.
Once everything is together, wriggle back in place and insert fully, against the spring tension, into the tank. There are 2 small plastic hooks on the top of the assembly that grab the top edge of the tank and hold the assembly in place momentarily, until you can gently replace the retaining collar and tap until it is fully seated. Remove any residual gas spills and replace the insulation and seat. Voila!
The initial job, not counting my o-ring error, took about 30 minutes, working very slowly and carefully. The second time it took about 10, not counting 15 minutes of troubleshooting. The part, 77024-30160, was around $137. I think someone said Lexus gets $800 for the same job. Not a bad ROI...
Last edited by shrinkwrap; Sep 10, 2019 at 04:27 AM.
I changed the fuel filter, which is integrated with the fuel pump assembly, on my 2013 GS a few days ago. It was actually pretty simple. After removing the seat and peeling back the insulation on the DS, carefully pry up the cap that covers the fuel pump assembly with a large flat-bladed screwdriver; it's held down with gooey stuff (I used rubber gloves, and changed them frequently to avoid getting sticky stuff on other things). Unplug the power cable and set the cap and cable aside. You may want to cover the cap with wax paper to prevent touching the gooey stuff.
Next, insert the same screwdriver into one of the slots on the retaining collar that locks the fuel pump assembly in place; the fancy tool that is used by Lexus, and which costs more than the filter itself, is not necessary. Just hold the blade at angle in any of the slots that are accessible and tap with a hammer to rotate until it comes loose (about 1/3 rotation, you'll see how it fits via friction).
FYI, the assembly is spring loaded and will pop up as soon as the collar is loose. Lift the assembly mostly out; there is a hose connection to the bottom of the assembly that pulls off when you squeeze the retainer with fingers. Keep in mind that the assembly is full of fuel, so hold it up to drain into the tank and have a plastic bag or container of some sort to catch the drips.
Wriggle the assembly out of the tank carefully (the float will be a bit in the way, but not too difficult to get it past the opening). Use a cigarette lighter to look inside the tank. LOL! Just kidding, unless you want to win a Darwin award!
Begin disassembly, including gently gently unsnapping the electrical connectors and un-clipping the various plastic retainers and hose. It is pretty straightforward; none of the clips or retainers can be put back in the wrong place. Be sure and remove all 3 of the o-rings you find, including the one on the fuel pump, which has to be removed from the top inside of the old plastic assembly. I didn't notice this and had to do the whole thing again when it wouldn't start and I figured out it was for lack of pressure.
Gently pry the c-clip off the spring on one side and swap out the new assembly for the old. Again, everything fits only one way, so just go slow and don't force anything beyond the pressure needed to seat the fuel pump o-ring. Replace all electrical connectors (also, one-way only), and that's it.
Once everything is together, wriggle back in place and insert fully, against the spring tension, into the tank. There are 2 small plastic hooks on the top of the assembly that grab the top edge of the tank and hold the assembly in place momentarily, until you can gently replace the retaining collar and tap until it is fully seated. Remove any residual gas spills and replace the insulation and seat. Voila!
The initial job, not counting my o-ring error, took about 30 minutes, working very slowly and carefully. The second time it took about 10, not counting 15 minutes of troubleshooting. The part, 77024-30160, was around $137. I think someone said Lexus gets $800 for the same job. Not a bad ROI...
Next, insert the same screwdriver into one of the slots on the retaining collar that locks the fuel pump assembly in place; the fancy tool that is used by Lexus, and which costs more than the filter itself, is not necessary. Just hold the blade at angle in any of the slots that are accessible and tap with a hammer to rotate until it comes loose (about 1/3 rotation, you'll see how it fits via friction).
FYI, the assembly is spring loaded and will pop up as soon as the collar is loose. Lift the assembly mostly out; there is a hose connection to the bottom of the assembly that pulls off when you squeeze the retainer with fingers. Keep in mind that the assembly is full of fuel, so hold it up to drain into the tank and have a plastic bag or container of some sort to catch the drips.
Wriggle the assembly out of the tank carefully (the float will be a bit in the way, but not too difficult to get it past the opening). Use a cigarette lighter to look inside the tank. LOL! Just kidding, unless you want to win a Darwin award!
Begin disassembly, including gently gently unsnapping the electrical connectors and un-clipping the various plastic retainers and hose. It is pretty straightforward; none of the clips or retainers can be put back in the wrong place. Be sure and remove all 3 of the o-rings you find, including the one on the fuel pump, which has to be removed from the top inside of the old plastic assembly. I didn't notice this and had to do the whole thing again when it wouldn't start and I figured out it was for lack of pressure.
Gently pry the c-clip off the spring on one side and swap out the new assembly for the old. Again, everything fits only one way, so just go slow and don't force anything beyond the pressure needed to seat the fuel pump o-ring. Replace all electrical connectors (also, one-way only), and that's it.
Once everything is together, wriggle back in place and insert fully, against the spring tension, into the tank. There are 2 small plastic hooks on the top of the assembly that grab the top edge of the tank and hold the assembly in place momentarily, until you can gently replace the retaining collar and tap until it is fully seated. Remove any residual gas spills and replace the insulation and seat. Voila!
The initial job, not counting my o-ring error, took about 30 minutes, working very slowly and carefully. The second time it took about 10, not counting 15 minutes of troubleshooting. The part, 77024-30160, was around $137. I think someone said Lexus gets $800 for the same job. Not a bad ROI...
Pit Crew
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 210
Likes: 25
From: MD
Richard 203 - No error code; I do preventive maintenance. Better to change it now rather than wait until a problem develops. Besides, I like working on cars, and this one requires almost no ongoing maintenance, Now I'll probably have to wait until the next brake job.
DrGrant - It's tough to tell if the filter was dirty, since it is embedded in hard plastic and I didn't cut it open. Looking through the opaque white case, it looks dark, but that could be from being saturated with gas. Looking in the tank when it was open (with a flashlight, not a cigarette lighter! LOL), the gas looked clean, with minimal sediment. Who knows? I probably could go another 100k miles before it caused a problem, or perhaps only 100. I enjoyed doing it anyway, especially because I've never done this particular job before.
DrGrant - It's tough to tell if the filter was dirty, since it is embedded in hard plastic and I didn't cut it open. Looking through the opaque white case, it looks dark, but that could be from being saturated with gas. Looking in the tank when it was open (with a flashlight, not a cigarette lighter! LOL), the gas looked clean, with minimal sediment. Who knows? I probably could go another 100k miles before it caused a problem, or perhaps only 100. I enjoyed doing it anyway, especially because I've never done this particular job before.
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 780
Likes: 120
From: MA
Richard 203 - No error code; I do preventive maintenance. Better to change it now rather than wait until a problem develops. Besides, I like working on cars, and this one requires almost no ongoing maintenance, Now I'll probably have to wait until the next brake job.
DrGrant - It's tough to tell if the filter was dirty, since it is embedded in hard plastic and I didn't cut it open. Looking through the opaque white case, it looks dark, but that could be from being saturated with gas. Looking in the tank when it was open (with a flashlight, not a cigarette lighter! LOL), the gas looked clean, with minimal sediment. Who knows? I probably could go another 100k miles before it caused a problem, or perhaps only 100. I enjoyed doing it anyway, especially because I've never done this particular job before.
DrGrant - It's tough to tell if the filter was dirty, since it is embedded in hard plastic and I didn't cut it open. Looking through the opaque white case, it looks dark, but that could be from being saturated with gas. Looking in the tank when it was open (with a flashlight, not a cigarette lighter! LOL), the gas looked clean, with minimal sediment. Who knows? I probably could go another 100k miles before it caused a problem, or perhaps only 100. I enjoyed doing it anyway, especially because I've never done this particular job before.
cars, or at least anything else made in recent history. I was mostly curious to see if the thing actually collected a lot of sediment or something.
-Mike