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Just curious what I did wrong. When I started to fill from radiator cap, it automatically filled the entire coolant tank to the top. When I look inside the radiator cap, coolant level is at the bottom. Drove the car for 15 minutes or so, everything is fine, no overheating, hot air comes from vents. But coolant tank is still over the max level. And i put less coolant than it originally had.
So the step when you supposed to "overfill" the radiator cap didn't work for me since all coolant went straight to tank and overfilled that first
Could it be that thermostat didnt open in 15-20 min I was driving. Maybe it takes longer for it to start circulating? I did drive with Heat on Max
Edit: did 2nd time and it went as planned. Hopefully all good now
Just curious what I did wrong. When I started to fill from radiator cap, it automatically filled the entire coolant tank to the top. When I look inside the radiator cap, coolant level is at the bottom. Drove the car for 15 minutes or so, everything is fine, no overheating, hot air comes from vents. But coolant tank is still over the max level. And i put less coolant than it originally had.
So the step when you supposed to "overfill" the radiator cap didn't work for me since all coolant went straight to tank and overfilled that first
Could it be that thermostat didnt open in 15-20 min I was driving. Maybe it takes longer for it to start circulating? I did drive with Heat on Max
Edit: did 2nd time and it went as planned. Hopefully all good now
did u bleed it from the coolant cap? cuz usually u add the coolant to the funnel till its stop and u run the air till the coolant keep going down and stop again and then u pour the rest of the coolant to the resvor tank to max
Fact that we drive a car 232k over 13 years on the original coolant and had no issues at all, with engine temps where they need to be. All I'm saying is there was no need to change the coolant and changing it would have very marginal difference in the real world.
I use the test strips on all my vehicles to see if the coolant is still at the proper pH and protection level.
did u bleed it from the coolant cap? cuz usually u add the coolant to the funnel till its stop and u run the air till the coolant keep going down and stop again and then u pour the rest of the coolant to the resvor tank to max
1st time I added coolant to the funnel but it didn't stop, it just went straight to tank and overfilled that. 2nd time I removed some coolant from tank and this time when I was filling up from radiator cap I was able to push some air out from Hose 1 and 2
There is an air bleed valve on top of the engine to get all the air out. see y o u t u b e The Car Care Nut
Toyota Cooling System Bleeding for V6 2GR-FE 3.5L THE RIGHT WAY!
(sorry for the HUGE letters)
Jim
Note that our GS350s have the V6 2GR-FSE which differs from the 2GR-FE talked about in that video. As far as I know, the FSE version does not have that bleeder valve because it is not as hard to bleed as the FE version. I work on both engines (GS350 which had the 2GR-FSE and V6 Avalon that uses the 2GR-FE).
The FSE version of the 2GR engine added Direct Injection in addition to the Port Injection and the FSE in the IS350s and GS350s are mounted longitudinally vs transverse for most FE implementations.
Later versions of the GS (post 2016 mid cycle refresh) use the 2GR-FKS which again differs than the FE and FSE.
For the 2013 Lexus GS 450h V6-3.5L (2GR-FXE) Hybrid, it is the same procedure as the 2GR-FKS, use the special Car Care Nut Funnel and then squeeze the no 1 and 2 radiator hoses by hand. Use several layers of gloves, and you will be fine.
The thermostat open timing can be confirmed by pressing the No. 2 radiator hose by hand, and checking when the engine coolant starts to flow inside the hose.
keep the coolant level right below the full line, and add if below 'low.'
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