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GS - 4th Gen (2013-2020) Discussion about the 2013 and up GS models

using paddle shifters?

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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 10:05 AM
  #16  
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Lightbulb FYI for All...

Cliff notes...

IF your going to use the "Paddle Shifters", slap the gear selector into "M" Mode and have fun..!!!

For extra fun, make sure you have also selected "Sport + "..

There is really no point in using the Paddle Shifters in regular D mode and/or Normal drive select mode.

That is all ..

... coming from an IS-F daly driver..

~ Joe Z
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #17  
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Very true.

(only place where I can think of somebody using paddle shifter in 'D' mode would be downhill driving to use it as an engine brake perhaps - other than that, yeah, switch to 'M' mode)
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #18  
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yup, hopefully some owners can chime in with more info
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 07:28 PM
  #19  
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I use the paddle shifters in “D” mode all the time because I drive 30 miles in stop-n-go traffic. I can be cruising along at 65 and see the traffic slowing and hit the minus button 2-3 times depending on how quick I want to slow down (2 hits = 4th gear, 3 hits = 3rd gear). This will use the engine to slow the car. Then when you accelerate for a short time, it goes back into “D” mode and works as an automatic. If traffic continues to move slow, I will put it into “M” mode to hold it into a lower gear. If I’m in 3M and come to a complete stop, the car shifts to M1 automatically. Then I have to put it back into “D” or manually shift with the paddle or shifter. It’s nice to have the different options to shift since every drive is different. 1200 miles and loving the F Sport a lot more than my 2010 GS350 I traded!
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by lexsteve
I use the paddle shifters in “D” mode all the time because I drive 30 miles in stop-n-go traffic. I can be cruising along at 65 and see the traffic slowing and hit the minus button 2-3 times depending on how quick I want to slow down (2 hits = 4th gear, 3 hits = 3rd gear). This will use the engine to slow the car. Then when you accelerate for a short time, it goes back into “D” mode and works as an automatic. If traffic continues to move slow, I will put it into “M” mode to hold it into a lower gear. If I’m in 3M and come to a complete stop, the car shifts to M1 automatically. Then I have to put it back into “D” or manually shift with the paddle or shifter. It’s nice to have the different options to shift since every drive is different. 1200 miles and loving the F Sport a lot more than my 2010 GS350 I traded!
thanks for the info, that's pretty much how i think the system works.

but i have to say, to stop a car, brake is what you should use, not the engine. it's much cheaper to change pads and rotors
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 05:05 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for the info lexsteve

From the user manual

Automatic deactivation of shift range selection in the D position
Shift range selection in the D position will be deactivated in the following situations:
* When the vehicle comes to a stop
* If the “+” paddle shift switch is operated when the shift range is in 5
* If the accelerator pedal is depressed for more than a certain period of time
* When the shift lever is shifted to other than D
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:43 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by rominl
thanks for the info, that's pretty much how i think the system works.

but i have to say, to stop a car, brake is what you should use, not the engine. it's much cheaper to change pads and rotors
I race on the track and everyone uses engine braking or as we say rev matching or heel toe thats the most effective way to slow down and enter the corner that will not ruin your engine and pad and rotors will last longer
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by GSTONY
I race on the track and everyone uses engine braking or as we say rev matching or heel toe thats the most effective way to slow down and enter the corner that will not ruin your engine and pad and rotors will last longer
when you are racing on a track, of course you want to keep the car in high rev and use the engine for engine braking too. and you are talking about a true manual driving where you have the clutch disengaged, rev match, and then engage with "minimal" wear. i drive stick and i have been to the track, i know. it won't "ruin" the engine, but it's still more wear over time. unless you think having the car idle at 500rpm is the same as keeping the car revving at 5000rpm continuously

but for normal daily driving on an automatic, that's simply wear on your engine and tranny. i am not talking about problems coming up tomorrow, but it's more wear over time for sure, it's simple physics. if you let the car slow down enough where downshifting doesn't cause stress on the engine and tranny, then that also means the downshift helps nothing.
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