Any AWD GS Owners using Lowering Springs?
#31
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
I'm not an expert but I don't think our AVS shocks do this. What you are describing would be more along the lines of a "mag-ride" shock like Vettes can have as example. AVS seems just like T.E.M.S. did on my old mk3 Supras, where the damping is set by turning an actuator. In fact it seems exactly like that, my mk3's had more settings than just three settings. AVS has just two.
Edit: I'm also on the AWD mild lowering path. It would be very helpful to have some direct comparisons between Swift. RS-R, and Tanabe strictly for the AWD "GRL-15" platform. I've been scouring the threads trying to separate the RWD pics and comments from the AWD, because they seem to be different enough to warrant separate considerations, particularly the drop F vs. R. At least that's been my understanding so far in my digging.
Edit: I'm also on the AWD mild lowering path. It would be very helpful to have some direct comparisons between Swift. RS-R, and Tanabe strictly for the AWD "GRL-15" platform. I've been scouring the threads trying to separate the RWD pics and comments from the AWD, because they seem to be different enough to warrant separate considerations, particularly the drop F vs. R. At least that's been my understanding so far in my digging.
The AVS dampers are continuously adaptive using two different baselines, one for Sport+ and one for all other modes.
Edmunds did a very succinct writeup of the system back in 2013 when they first reviewed the 4GS.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/...alkaround.html
A base GS 350 has monotube coil-over shocks. And even though you can't see any external sensors, our F Sport has Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS) in which the damping force self-adjusts depending on conditions. Two driver-selectable damping ranges are offered: one for Normal/Eco/Sport S and another for Sport S+.
The system isn't just about reading the road surface texture and optimizing ride comfort. Unlike the system seen on the IS-F walkaround, this one uses a central accelerometer pack instead of four distinct suspension height sensors. The system is linked to the wheel speed sensors, accelerator, steering and brakes to predictively respond to the driver's intent with asymmetrical damping to resist body roll, brake dive and acceleration squat.
The system isn't just about reading the road surface texture and optimizing ride comfort. Unlike the system seen on the IS-F walkaround, this one uses a central accelerometer pack instead of four distinct suspension height sensors. The system is linked to the wheel speed sensors, accelerator, steering and brakes to predictively respond to the driver's intent with asymmetrical damping to resist body roll, brake dive and acceleration squat.
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JDR76 (11-16-23)
#32
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
jgscott,
I read on one of your older posts that you had replaced all your shocks with the KYB Gas-A-Just, which is the same as OEM? How do you like them? I thought there was a difference between base, luxury and f-sport AVS shocks, but according to KYB's catalog, the same shock is used for all GS's with AVS. Anyway, I'm going to have my shocks checked out before going any further and wanted to ask how that is done? Is it simply a visual inspection for leaks? Can shocks be bad, but not be leaking? After everything I'm reading about premature AVS shock failure, I'm thinking of replacing them either since when doing the springs.
I read on one of your older posts that you had replaced all your shocks with the KYB Gas-A-Just, which is the same as OEM? How do you like them? I thought there was a difference between base, luxury and f-sport AVS shocks, but according to KYB's catalog, the same shock is used for all GS's with AVS. Anyway, I'm going to have my shocks checked out before going any further and wanted to ask how that is done? Is it simply a visual inspection for leaks? Can shocks be bad, but not be leaking? After everything I'm reading about premature AVS shock failure, I'm thinking of replacing them either since when doing the springs.
#33
Pit Crew
iTrader: (2)
Yeah, what JGScott said.. In addition, I would say look for noises too like this -
.
I am on RSR downs on 2018 AWD with AVS, and I can tell you, my driver front and passenger rear went bad over the course of like 25k miles. There were no leaks at all. There was only the damper noise you hear in this video, up front, and me rubbing on sharp turns on that same corner as well as on my passenger rear where the car would roll a bit cornering.
That made me check my suspension out for noises and ultimately replace the all 4 corners with the KYBs and new mounts. Easy job if you are mechanically inclined. Didn't feel like Bsing with the front springs so I jsut took the struts out as a unit and took them to a shop to swap the new ones onto my springs for $50, then I just reinstalled. Do your stabilizer links while you are in there. Well worth the time and headache to me.
I am on RSR downs on 2018 AWD with AVS, and I can tell you, my driver front and passenger rear went bad over the course of like 25k miles. There were no leaks at all. There was only the damper noise you hear in this video, up front, and me rubbing on sharp turns on that same corner as well as on my passenger rear where the car would roll a bit cornering.
That made me check my suspension out for noises and ultimately replace the all 4 corners with the KYBs and new mounts. Easy job if you are mechanically inclined. Didn't feel like Bsing with the front springs so I jsut took the struts out as a unit and took them to a shop to swap the new ones onto my springs for $50, then I just reinstalled. Do your stabilizer links while you are in there. Well worth the time and headache to me.
Last edited by Asav; 11-19-23 at 04:11 AM.
#34
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
One thing to Caution about some of those Lowering Springs out there. If they are too low you will have lots of problems entering steep transition parking lots with dips, also speed bump problems and many have entering and exiting their own driveway problems. You can scrape both the front under bumper or lip, and also the exhaust and underbody.
#35
Intermediate
When the 4th gen GS debuted, Lexus had a video describing many aspects of the car and in it they explained this about the AVS, even showing graphs of how it reacts to driving conditions and makes constant adjustments in fractions of a second. It can be found on YouTube. It's been posted on here before.
The AVS dampers are continuously adaptive using two different baselines, one for Sport+ and one for all other modes.
Edmunds did a very succinct writeup of the system back in 2013 when they first reviewed the 4GS.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/...alkaround.html
Edmunds did a very succinct writeup of the system back in 2013 when they first reviewed the 4GS.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/...alkaround.html
Thank you both for the information! I dug around and found for my 2013 at least, there are 9 possible positions for the actuator to select from, at least if my research is correct. Very interesting.
Back to the spring discussion for AWD, between Swift, RS-R, and Tanabe, which seems to do the AWD GRL-15 platform the best (mild drop to close the 4x4 gap) while setting the body down with the right rake? Are the occasional comments about a reverse rake on the AWD when lowered possibly an artifact of improper install?
The following users liked this post:
JDR76 (11-21-23)
#36
Driver
Thread Starter
Thank you both for the information! I dug around and found for my 2013 at least, there are 9 possible positions for the actuator to select from, at least if my research is correct. Very interesting.
Back to the spring discussion for AWD, between Swift, RS-R, and Tanabe, which seems to do the AWD GRL-15 platform the best (mild drop to close the 4x4 gap) while setting the body down with the right rake? Are the occasional comments about a reverse rake on the AWD when lowered possibly an artifact of improper install?
Back to the spring discussion for AWD, between Swift, RS-R, and Tanabe, which seems to do the AWD GRL-15 platform the best (mild drop to close the 4x4 gap) while setting the body down with the right rake? Are the occasional comments about a reverse rake on the AWD when lowered possibly an artifact of improper install?
The following users liked this post:
fourthmeal (11-21-23)
The following users liked this post:
fourthmeal (11-22-23)
#38
Intermediate
Based on all available information about the AWD version (which isn't much), I'm leaning to RS-R Down. Swift will probably reverse-rake on AWD unless you install some thicker rubber insulator/spacer which would work but not readily available and ready as a solution.
I was thinking about my shocks and the age of my car, 2013 with 116k on it. The thing is, I did the brakes recently and all the shocks and suspension looked basically perfect, no leakage or issues I could detect. When I got under there I was expecting to find new KYB part numbers but they look like the OEM numbers. I need to dig more and see if there's a date marker on these because 10+ years is a lot to ask of a shock. I was set on slapping in new KYB AVS shocks with new springs but now I'm not so sure I should even replace the shocks if I can date them to a newer replacement date. It's only about 360-400 at Rock Auto to do the set, so that's what I'm going back and forth on. I paid more than that for some new OEM calipers in the rear, the only option locally available.
I was thinking about my shocks and the age of my car, 2013 with 116k on it. The thing is, I did the brakes recently and all the shocks and suspension looked basically perfect, no leakage or issues I could detect. When I got under there I was expecting to find new KYB part numbers but they look like the OEM numbers. I need to dig more and see if there's a date marker on these because 10+ years is a lot to ask of a shock. I was set on slapping in new KYB AVS shocks with new springs but now I'm not so sure I should even replace the shocks if I can date them to a newer replacement date. It's only about 360-400 at Rock Auto to do the set, so that's what I'm going back and forth on. I paid more than that for some new OEM calipers in the rear, the only option locally available.
#40
Intermediate
This thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...e-nf210-4.html
has been one of the better ones I've found on the subject while also including plenty of AWD specific pics of the drop. Tanabe in this case but RS-R is in there as comparison. There are a few other threads sprinkled about of course but sadly the passage of time and changes in policy from places that host pictures have caused a few posts to be "worthless without pics". That leaves us with only a few other references.
has been one of the better ones I've found on the subject while also including plenty of AWD specific pics of the drop. Tanabe in this case but RS-R is in there as comparison. There are a few other threads sprinkled about of course but sadly the passage of time and changes in policy from places that host pictures have caused a few posts to be "worthless without pics". That leaves us with only a few other references.
Last edited by fourthmeal; 11-30-23 at 09:41 PM.
#41
What springs do you use on the AWD rc?
Im looking for springs because they are a cheap way to lower the car. The Gap on the AWD rc 300 is atrocious. I’ve heard nothing but negatives when it comes to springs with other stock components. What are the best options?
#42
Intermediate
Since it isn't GS platform-related, I recommend deleting and reposting in the RC forums or DM so you can get what you need and the thread doesn't get confusing with RC-related solutions.
#43
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#44
Spring rates
In KILOGRAMMS/MILIMITER higher number means stiffer suspension.
OEM (since 5% less than tanabe)
FRONT 3.4 kg/mm (too soft, also too high for me)
REAR 6.2 k ( good spring rate for me)
TANABE
F 3.6 k
R 6.5 (seems good, difference to OEM 5% )
Drop f1.3 r1.5
RSR DOWN
F 4.9 ( perfect spring rate for front for daily )
R 8.1 (too stiff, thrown into garbage, back to oem)
Drop f 1.8 r 1.8
Swift
In KILOGRAMMS/MILIMITER higher number means stiffer suspension.
OEM (since 5% less than tanabe)
FRONT 3.4 kg/mm (too soft, also too high for me)
REAR 6.2 k ( good spring rate for me)
TANABE
F 3.6 k
R 6.5 (seems good, difference to OEM 5% )
Drop f1.3 r1.5
RSR DOWN
F 4.9 ( perfect spring rate for front for daily )
R 8.1 (too stiff, thrown into garbage, back to oem)
Drop f 1.8 r 1.8
Swift
- Spring Rate Front: 5.0 Kg/mm
- Spring Rate Rear: 7.5 Kg/mm
- Front Lowering: -0.8 Inch
- Rear Lowering: -0.8 Inch
#45
Intermediate
This is super interesting. I have a 2013 AWD with RSR Downs, and am looking to get a softer ride. I wonder how “off” it would look if I keep the front RSR’s (as the spring rates look good), and the back Stock OEM springs, and if this would throw the geometry too far off?
Also was the suspension for sure probably clocked and then torqued?
Thanks!