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I have the P0420 error and can’t get my car smogged.
I bought a bluetooth obd scanner but I can’t seem to find the bank 1 sensor 1 voltage reading in any of the apps. I’ve used obd fusion and car scanner ELM on iphone. I can get the Bank 1 Sensor 2 reading and I suspect there is something wrong with that sensor because it is fluctuating as opposed to holding steady like some videos suggested would be a sign of a working o2 bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor.
I attached an image of all the o2 sensors I can get from the scanner app... what gives? Why won’t it show all the sensors?
Also there are a total of 4 sensors on the 06 gs300 right? 2 pre cat 2 post?
Try smearing exhaust paste all over the Y-pipe flange and let it dry over night. Clear the code and see if it comes back. I used to get the code all the time and this would make it go away. I'm pretty sure the flange gaskets are leaking or the flange itself is just rusted and worn away. Either way it's a cheap fix and if it does not work then you can think about the O2 sensor or worst case the cat.
Try smearing exhaust paste all over the Y-pipe flange and let it dry over night. Clear the code and see if it comes back. I used to get the code all the time and this would make it go away. I'm pretty sure the flange gaskets are leaking or the flange itself is just rusted and worn away. Either way it's a cheap fix and if it does not work then you can think about the O2 sensor or worst case the cat.
I was thinking of borrowing a shop vac and trying to tape it to the exhaust to find any leaks in airflow.... is that a better idea before I go for the Y pipe flange with exhaust paste?
I was thinking of borrowing a shop vac and trying to tape it to the exhaust to find any leaks in airflow.... is that a better idea before I go for the Y pipe flange with exhaust paste?
That's funny because I just used the shop vac method on my 460 to see if my flanges were leaking, which they were so that's a good way to check for leaks in the system.
That's funny because I just used the shop vac method on my 460 to see if my flanges were leaking, which they were so that's a good way to check for leaks in the system.
Yes. That’s next on the agenda after swapping out the sensors!
Yes, there are 4 O2 sensors. Your application displays all 4 readings. Sensor 2 from a bank is post cat and sensor 1 is pre cat. A caveat is pre cat sensors are wide-band sensors, which don't work the same way conventional sensors do. They output a linear signal, as opposed to a sinusoidal signal that comes from conventional sensors.
I believe "Wide Range Equivalence Ratio" tells you the lambda value of the mix, which should be 14.7. So your engine runs a tad rich, which the P219x codes confirm. But I really don't know what's the cause of an engine running rich after replacing some O2 sensors, I'll have to pass on the microphone to someone else.
You could still reset the ECU in case it got used to bad oxygen sensors and wrongly adapted the mix in consequence, maybe the codes won't come back.
Yes, there are 4 O2 sensors. Your application displays all 4 readings. Sensor 2 from a bank is post cat and sensor 1 is pre cat. A caveat is pre cat sensors are wide-band sensors, which don't work the same way conventional sensors do. They output a linear signal, as opposed to a sinusoidal signal that comes from conventional sensors.
I believe "Wide Range Equivalence Ratio" tells you the lambda value of the mix, which should be 14.7. So your engine runs a tad rich, which the P219x codes confirm. But I really don't know what's the cause of an engine running rich after replacing some O2 sensors, I'll have to pass on the microphone to someone else.
You could still reset the ECU in case it got used to bad oxygen sensors and wrongly adapted the mix in consequence, maybe the codes won't come back.
Thank you for the reply and information. After googling around, I’m going to start with cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body and then go from there. I’ll try to reset the ECU like you said to as well. Is that as simple as removing the battery for a few hours?
Oh yeah cleaning the intake could be a very good idea, I forgot that. A dirty MAF sensor will mess up the mix.
Cleaned maf sensor and throttle ... cracked the air intake hose while taking it off the throttle body *cries*
shelled out $100 for a new one today... put it all back together and ran obd scanner and codes are gone!!!
Now I got codes P0305 P0306 which i suspect are the spark plugs. When the gear switches, it gets stuck and hesitates at the end of the RPM range.... would that be the reason for the P0305 P0306 codes?
Also, why are these codes popping up only after I finishing fixing previous codes? How come they don’t pop up all at once?
My fam also gifted for christmas the money for some coilovers cause my suspension on this 06 gs 300 is rocky and unstable feeling.
I bought the tein street advance z coilovers for $600. Was this a waste of money? Not sure if it’s worth paying that much for new coilovers on a relatively older cheaper car.
Wonder if these coilovers will fix the problem or if the cause of the instability is from something else.
I think your root issue is carbon buildup, in which these cars are known for. Years ago lexus offered free rebuilds for anyone with issues.
But you dont need a full rebuild to make it better. You can take it to a mechanic tell him you suspect that you have carbon buildup and would like to have him remove the intake manifold and manually clean the intake valves or walnut blast the runners. Its not difficult many mini cooper/bmw owners have these issues and they have shops that have experience in this. $200-300 is what they usually charge for a cleaning.
After you do the cleaning I would do a top engine clean with BG or seafoam, then slap in a new set of denso or oem plugs (beware of $20 fakes on ebay or amazon)
I say its carbon because your getting issues with the o2 sensors, the cats, and now spark plugs all relates carbon buildup. If the runners/intake valves were caked up with carbon that means less air flows into the engine, the less air means less fueling, but the ecu can only lower so much so it runs rich mixture. Running so rich can destroy the cats
After you do the cleaning you should get better performance/gas mileage/smoother ride etc. Another sign that you have carbon is around the rear bumper exhaust opening soot will form around the exhaust tail pipes.
You can do a temporary fix to get you by with doing a top engine cleaning, with the motor hot from driving. In an empty parking lot, because it will get smoky. Pop open the engine cover, and on the intake manifold on the rear drivers side is a blocked off vacuum plug and clamp. Remove that clamp and plug, and you will need a vacuum hose to match it. Pour seafoam or bg into a cup, start the engine and you should hear strong vacuum from that open hose you installed. Let the vacuum suck the chemical from the cup, manage the hose to where the engine barely wants to run but try not to let it cut off. After you finish half the bottle, let the car sit and heat soak for 30min an repeat the rest. After you finish put back on the vacuum plug and clamp, and keep the engine at idle for about 2 min then drive the car hard and fast on the highway
I think your root issue is carbon buildup, in which these cars are known for. Years ago lexus offered free rebuilds for anyone with issues.
But you dont need a full rebuild to make it better. You can take it to a mechanic tell him you suspect that you have carbon buildup and would like to have him remove the intake manifold and manually clean the intake valves or walnut blast the runners. Its not difficult many mini cooper/bmw owners have these issues and they have shops that have experience in this. $200-300 is what they usually charge for a cleaning.
After you do the cleaning I would do a top engine clean with BG or seafoam, then slap in a new set of denso or oem plugs (beware of $20 fakes on ebay or amazon)
I say its carbon because your getting issues with the o2 sensors, the cats, and now spark plugs all relates carbon buildup. If the runners/intake valves were caked up with carbon that means less air flows into the engine, the less air means less fueling, but the ecu can only lower so much so it runs rich mixture. Running so rich can destroy the cats
After you do the cleaning you should get better performance/gas mileage/smoother ride etc. Another sign that you have carbon is around the rear bumper exhaust opening soot will form around the exhaust tail pipes.
You can do a temporary fix to get you by with doing a top engine cleaning, with the motor hot from driving. In an empty parking lot, because it will get smoky. Pop open the engine cover, and on the intake manifold on the rear drivers side is a blocked off vacuum plug and clamp. Remove that clamp and plug, and you will need a vacuum hose to match it. Pour seafoam or bg into a cup, start the engine and you should hear strong vacuum from that open hose you installed. Let the vacuum suck the chemical from the cup, manage the hose to where the engine barely wants to run but try not to let it cut off. After you finish half the bottle, let the car sit and heat soak for 30min an repeat the rest. After you finish put back on the vacuum plug and clamp, and keep the engine at idle for about 2 min then drive the car hard and fast on the highway
Wow what a wealth of information. Thank you for taking the time to write all that.
You hit the nail on the head. I do have soot all around the exhaust.
So instead of the $200-300 engine cleaning I can do the above video? Or is it only temporary?
Also, why did you say to install the spark plugs after? My denso plugs are arriving tomorrow and I was going to install them asap. Should I wait till after the cleaning?
Oxygen Sensor on OBD Scanner
