Not sure who will find this helpful, but the link bar for my front AFS sensor snapped and I came up with an affordable solution. After searching online looking for replacements, I didn’t come up with much but, I discovered the part cannot be ordered by itself, only alongside the sensor which is $380 CAD. (*edit. After building this, I noticed another user "Potatomon" also came up with this solution).

I envisioned two hyme joints connected with round bar stock and threaded rod. Below is a write up of the build. Also I understand the cringe factor of ordering things off Amazon for a Lexus, but the part we are replacing is originally cheap white metal, and this build will be far stronger, so don’t feel too bad.

Tools I used:
Drill press (a lathe would be ideal, but who has that. A hand drill would work as a last resort)
Drill bit set
6x1mm thread Tap (one left and one right hand thread is ideal, but again not necessary)
Hacksaw
Bench Vise
Sandpaper
2x 10mm wrench or socket combo

Materials I used
(2x) 6mm hyme joints ordered off amazon (4pk for $11 CAD)
(4x) 6x1mm x40mm stainless steel bolts, from Canadian Tire
(4x) 6x1mm stainless steel nuts, also from CT
(1x) 3/8” round bar stock 36” length, from CT
(1x) small piece of 3/8” PCV hose
Permatex Red threadlocker
Rattle can primer, and engine enamel black


The broken link bar. (I had already taken the nuts off)


Made of cheap white metal and a definite weak point in the system. The ball joint ends seize up after time, which puts strain on the shaft.


3/8" Round bar stock which I cut to a roughly 5-3/4" length.


I don't have access to a lathe, so a drill press was my next best option. Luckily for a component like this, "eyeballing" the center wont give you any troubles. Always start small.


Drilled to final size for 6mm tap.


6mm right hand thread tapped both ends. Having one end reverse threaded would be ideal, but not necessary.


I couldn't find stainless steel 6mm threaded rod, so opted for 6x1mm x40mm long bolts and cut the heads off two of them to use for the bar stock.


Hyme joints from amazon. I used Permatex Red thread-locker when mating the 6mm rod into these as I only wanted the bar to be able to pivot on the threads, not the joints as well.


The finished product. It is adjustable due to the threaded ends of the rod, but it just so happens the 5-3/4" length I cut the bar stock was near the correct length.


Comparison side by side.


After installing, I noticed the nut would "click" against the hyme joint when you turned it, and was concerned about noise when driving.


I took some 3/8" hose and cut small sections of it to act as a buffer.


Jenky, but no more noise and the joint remains flexible.


As installed.


As installed.


If I were to do it again, I would have ordered these instead of hyme joints.

This is my first post, sorry if the pictures suck. I hope this helps someone at some point.

Cheers all.

 

Good job! But they do make some aftermarket https://www.ebay.com/itm/Level-Heigh...QAAOSwyM1bKNZb

 

Ahhh no! Hahah. Just what I was looking for. I suppose the silver lining to that is it cost me under $40 CAD to make. Cheers!

 

Thank you a lot because mine has snapped off too, but I live in an apartment and I'm young with not a penny (so to speak) so I don't have access to all of that equipment.

Actually, the sensor assembly looks like it's rusted and I have to put some force to make the piece between the plug and where would be the top end of the large arm move. I'm waiting for my OBDII connector to arrive to see if it still actually sends a signal. If it does, I'll just put a new arm. If it's broken, I'll replace the sensor. At my nearest Lexus dealership, it costs $297.36 which is actually lower than eBay or the Canadian Lexus parts website.

 

There was a member who mentioned theres an AFS fuse you can remove and it will stop that annoying blinking

 

I know, but I don't want to. I chose this car because xenon lighting was mandatory to lead to a purchase, after having halogen cars which were horrible. So if such a system comes with it, I will make it work.

I don't like to pull a fuse to "get rid" of a problem, it doesn't appear right to me, and this is not an infeasible repair so I might as well do it.

 

From what I believe all AFS does it tilts the lens inside the headlight just a hair when turning, and adjust the headlight to the payload in the car. That bars sensors detects the cars height and the headlight get aimed. But if you start the car and let it run at idle then pull the fuse, it should stop the motor at normal driving. You can keep the oem xenons, if its true that pulling the fuse will stop the blinker.

 

You're right, auto height adjustment isn't required to work for the headlight bulbs themselves to do so, but I like to have it working as well, it allows oncoming traffic not to be blinded.
I finally received my connector so I scanned the car, and the sensors works! I moved it by hand with my computer aside and I could see the voltage change. So I'll order a link.
I already guessed it accurately but it allowed me to confirm headlights are shot though, water inside bricked the motors. I couldn't make the low beams move in any direction. Of the 5 codes I have, 1 is for the front sensor and all 4 others are for the stepper motors.

 

It's been a little while since I ordered the arm. It comes from Belarus and takes some time. I hope it comes with washers and screws. I'll keep you posted

 

Love the upgrade bar, when are you going to sell this on Ebay and all potential owners here?

 

OK, looks like the tracking stopped being updated for some reason. The link actually arrived, and it looks fairly well made, but, even if not a big deal, no bolts are provided.

I tried to install it today when my car was on the lift for my differentials fluid. Unfortunately, I couldn't because the lower ball joint from the former arm remained attached to a small tab, and when I tried to unscrew it, it just made the ball joint turn with it. The ball joint side of the tab isn't very accessible and I tried to prevent it from moving with a plier, but it still moved. I also bent the tab, which I was able to bend back before loosening the nut, but as I loosened it, I couldn't bend it back because the bolt wasn't transmitting the force anymore. But this is a small detail.

I just realized I could have removed the tab from the control arm so I'll have all the room I want to sort it out, odds are I was tired at the moment (rusted differential plugs gave me a headache).

 

I forgot to show it installed. Here it is, my mechanic cut the old ball joints and installed it. The car is going to Lexus soon for some work so I asked them to adjust the headlights at the same time because they are a bit low now. They needed adjustment anyway because I didn't do it since I replaced the headlights, and the right one is set lower, not optimal.

The link seems to do its job fine. I hope the ball joints will hold up, these have to be the most sensible parts vs an OEM part which often has stricter quality controls.

 

Mine is rattling at lower ball joint. I can hear it going through a parking lot. It's frustrating.

I saw the after-market "bar only" on ebay. But after seeing the picture of the THK Link Ball end on this post, well . . . I looked it up. I just now ordered 4 THK BL6 @ $50.22 including shipping & tax. I should be able to simply cut a threaded rod the correct length and screw them on. I hope.

 

I’m a bit late into this thread…
My mechanic did install a linkage that I bought from that guy in Belarus. Unfortunately it seems like he didn’t measure the length of the old broken linkage. Now the low beam is pointing too high (which is an MOT failure…). Does anyone have a correct measurement for the original linkage? (The OP of this thread is mentioning 5 3/4”, but is that the length of his threaded bar or is it the measurement in between the sensor tab and the other tab respectively?)