2006 Lexus Gs300 Engine Rebuild
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2006 Lexus Gs300 Engine Rebuild
I have 2006 Lexus Gs300. It has carbon build up and burns oil. I can only drive the car for two months, and afterword needs to top it off. Lexus do they still over engine rebuild?
#2
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...319/11019388-P
If it does clear up I would look into a catch can for the PCV system. Also use top tier gasoline and a quality oil like Pennzoil Platinum Ultra (promises to clean pistons).
#3
There's a lexus specialty shop by me that does walnut blasting for the 06 300s and is250s and that supposedly helps the problem a lot and is much cheaper than rebuilding but you'd have to find a shop that does that, it says more of a common thing for bmws
#4
Lexus Test Driver
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Try this! Remove all the spark plugs, and in each spark plug hole pour in berrymans parts cleaner or seafoam. Hand turn the crank gently to turn the engine. Put the plugs back in place and let it sit for a whole day. Next day remove the plugs and with a turkey baster remove all the solution, if you find that you have a piston draining your solution know that thats the piston thats burning your oil and that its rings are baked into the piston ring. Keep adding solution until it holds solution better. When you remove all the cleaner with the plugs out start the engine to shoot out any remaining cleaner. This should help clean your piston tops and rings.
Next you will have to deal with the valves mainly the intake valves. Completely remove the intake manifold from there you should be able to see the valves and the carbon built up with a flash light. Mopar/Dodge sells a foam combustion cleaner spray. Spray the valves while scrubbing it with long stiff bristle plastic brushes or even toothbrush if you can reach it far enough. You should be able to get the majority out by doing these two. After you have done both and reinstalled everything. I would change the oil, and do a seafoam induction cleaning and replace the spark plugs.
Next you will have to deal with the valves mainly the intake valves. Completely remove the intake manifold from there you should be able to see the valves and the carbon built up with a flash light. Mopar/Dodge sells a foam combustion cleaner spray. Spray the valves while scrubbing it with long stiff bristle plastic brushes or even toothbrush if you can reach it far enough. You should be able to get the majority out by doing these two. After you have done both and reinstalled everything. I would change the oil, and do a seafoam induction cleaning and replace the spark plugs.
#5
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Nothing fixes worn out rings correct! But the issue with the GS300 is not that it gets worn from mileage and use but from carbon it seeps down the piston and blocks the oil separator piston rings. Once the pistons gum up the rings then they get compressed locked into the piston allowing oil to blow past. If you soak a carbon locked piston in a good cleaner it can possibly loosen up the carbon releasing the ring.
#6
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I bought an 06 awd gs300 2 weeks ago, 217k miles, burns a lot of oil. So much that they sold it to me for 2k.
Trying to fix it myself. Engine has compression and ran smoothly before I started taking it apart.
I hope it's just carbon build up and new rings n seals, and I don't need a new block.
I found a video on youtube of a guy doing this job, you take off oil pan #2 then you can undo the rods and get the pistons out, that's what I'm doing. It's definitely an undertaking but this car is my project.
It's easier on RWD, mine is AWD, and I had to suspend the engine and remove the subframe in order to remove the front transfer case in order to remove oil pan #2.(yet to do the last part, got other stuff in the way.)
Trying to fix it myself. Engine has compression and ran smoothly before I started taking it apart.
I hope it's just carbon build up and new rings n seals, and I don't need a new block.
I found a video on youtube of a guy doing this job, you take off oil pan #2 then you can undo the rods and get the pistons out, that's what I'm doing. It's definitely an undertaking but this car is my project.
It's easier on RWD, mine is AWD, and I had to suspend the engine and remove the subframe in order to remove the front transfer case in order to remove oil pan #2.(yet to do the last part, got other stuff in the way.)
#7
Lexus Test Driver
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I bought an 06 awd gs300 2 weeks ago, 217k miles, burns a lot of oil. So much that they sold it to me for 2k.
Trying to fix it myself. Engine has compression and ran smoothly before I started taking it apart.
I hope it's just carbon build up and new rings n seals, and I don't need a new block.
I found a video on youtube of a guy doing this job, you take off oil pan #2 then you can undo the rods and get the pistons out, that's what I'm doing. It's definitely an undertaking but this car is my project.
It's easier on RWD, mine is AWD, and I had to suspend the engine and remove the subframe in order to remove the front transfer case in order to remove oil pan #2.(yet to do the last part, got other stuff in the way.)
Trying to fix it myself. Engine has compression and ran smoothly before I started taking it apart.
I hope it's just carbon build up and new rings n seals, and I don't need a new block.
I found a video on youtube of a guy doing this job, you take off oil pan #2 then you can undo the rods and get the pistons out, that's what I'm doing. It's definitely an undertaking but this car is my project.
It's easier on RWD, mine is AWD, and I had to suspend the engine and remove the subframe in order to remove the front transfer case in order to remove oil pan #2.(yet to do the last part, got other stuff in the way.)
If youre willing to tear it apart for a rebuild. I think you can save a lot of time if you just pull the heads off and the oil pan. That way you can leave the block, crank, transmission etc in place. Once you pull the oil pan you should have access to all the connecting rods, if you loosen the rod caps with the heads off you can then slide the pistons right out. Just replace the head gaskets and head bolts if they are not reusuable.
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#8
Pole Position
^thays what i am doing but to Get to oilpan #2 you need to remove front transfer case which is easy with the subframe off. Its also bolted up to the transmission for structure rigidity
The thing im scared to touch for now is the chains cuz i gotta figure out how these timing marks work before i go taking stuff off.
#9
Lexus Test Driver
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Turn the engine over until piston #1 is at top dead center. You can put a thin wooden stick into piston #1 spark plug hole, when you turn over the crank pulley the stick will rise or lower. TDC is the very peak of the stick! Once at TDC look at the timing chain there should be marks on the head and marks on the cam gear and crank pulley gear, you may have to turn the crank till the marks all line up. Once all the marks line up grab a paint marker and mark on the chain and cam gear to give you reference points of how the chain was attached and where it sits exactly. You can even zip tie the chain to the lower crank pulley, and or use a bungee cord to put tension on the lower parts of the chain. Looking good so far!
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What do you mean by “needs to top it off”? Because I think I might be having the same problem.
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