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I've done it on a 3uz (gs430). Its not too hard just take your time removing the connectors or you will break tabs. From what I remember, you will have to remove the spark plug/tubes, move some evap system lines, disconnect the intake and a few other things for space to work with. For the rear bolts on the valve cover you will need a swivel head 14mm (Double check if this is the right size) and a few extensions.
Installing the valve cover with the gasket installed is a pain as the internals do get in the way and can rip the gasket. Don't force anything and you'll be fine. Depending on how many miles you have you might consider doing the spark plug gaskets at the same time. Make sure to not over torque the bolts.
You can get all the repair manual documents at techinfo.toyota.com. It's $15 for 2 day access but it's really worth it
Haven't don't valve cover gaskets on my GS, by I've done them on a couple Camrys (very easy) and a GS300 (2GS) (not especially hard, but a pain in the *** getting to them). As long as you have the patience to take off the intake manifold and disconnect about 27 million connectors, it won't be that bad!
How hard it is really depends on you. Have you ever done a valve cover gasket or anything similar?
This is my first time doing valve cover gasket.It might be good idea to get it done by professional.Do you know Torque setting that needs to be maintained when putting it back together?
If you've done a water pump or brake job before, valve cover gasket should be no problem. It'll definitely be no problem if you get the repair manual
The torque specs for the Camry and 2GS valve covers were around 80 inch/pounds, so it's probably not much more than that. Are you replacing gaskets on a GS350?
Follow the bolt removal sequence on removing and installing the valve cover. Make sure to clean the head and valve cover properly before putting the new gasket. I use a RTV to hold the gasket on the valve covers.
Okay here are a couple pictures from the repair manual showing the torque specs for the valve cover bolts, and where to put the sealant. You should probably also replace the intake manifold gasket rather than reusing it
These two tubes are probably going to be brittle and may crack when you disconnect them, so just replace those while you're at it too
Hi, last weekend i was changing noisy water pump and i noticed a lot of oil leaking especially from driver side VC area. As usual started searching the internet but don't see anyone showing DIY walk through for this. Did you complete yours ? Did you use TIS docs , and if so was it helpful ?
I've done VC and valve adjustment on wife's MDX recently so there is some confidence, still nice to have some background info.
Any other items to replace while i am on it ? (Planning on swapping the spark plugs too)
Many thanks Art.
You will need to remove the high pressure fuel pump. Be careful with this job you will need to depressurize the system and disable the fuel pump and after the job is done you will need to prime the fuel lines or you will have a hard time starting (normal spray some brake clean/starter fluid in intake while someone cranks). Also in the valve covers are oil passages and oil jets that spray oil onto the cams, make sure you get those o-rings that go between the valve cover and cylinder head they are small.
The spark plug tube seals are tight, like rear main seals/ cam end seals and will need to be pried out carefully. The thin sheet metal splash guards and oil jets could be damaged. Make sure you note which way the seals came out and that they are pressed in all the way and none of them get nicked (do 1 at a time) otherwise they will leak into the spark plug tube and fill up with oil. You wont see it because the ignition coils will be covering it.
if you want to know how to DIY then check out this guy, he explains it well and dont forget to replace the spark plugs seals while you are at it, they usually wear out at the same time:
You will need to remove the high pressure fuel pump. Be careful with this job you will need to depressurize the system and disable the fuel pump and after the job is done you will need to prime the fuel lines or you will have a hard time starting (normal spray some brake clean/starter fluid in intake while someone cranks). Also in the valve covers are oil passages and oil jets that spray oil onto the cams, make sure you get those o-rings that go between the valve cover and cylinder head they are small.
The spark plug tube seals are tight, like rear main seals/ cam end seals and will need to be pried out carefully. The thin sheet metal splash guards and oil jets could be damaged. Make sure you note which way the seals came out and that they are pressed in all the way and none of them get nicked (do 1 at a time) otherwise they will leak into the spark plug tube and fill up with oil. You wont see it because the ignition coils will be covering it.
I'm replacing the gaskets on my 08 GS460 and I'm at the point now where I need to remove the fuel pump. Any tips on how to get these out safely? I definitely don't want to damage them while removing.