Originally Posted by chuckGS350

Did the humming noise go away?

Originally Posted by BOPOH

Hello,

Used to have SC300 and SC400, my friend asked me if could do a rear wheel bearing replacement on his GS350. Huge thanks to rkw77080 for this DIY great job on details and pictures.

However GS350 had different rear brakes set up so i couldn't use second hole to pry dust deflector.
Below is my experience and the way i found easier way to do rear hubs:

BE PREPARED TO BUY NEW SPEED SENSORS - aluminum rust and holds brittle plastic sensor really good, extraction can be difficult because hole narrows towards the axle. I broke one sensor, then a drill bit, then a screw, then lost my mind but used a smaller drill bit drilled 4 holes around the broken screw and got all the pieces.

1. Dust deflector does not actually obstruct access to bolts - it is axle only
2. Raise the hub to operating level so axle is in line and straight on both ends - push the axle in with pulley puller (i used 5 ton from autozone). it will give you enough room for 10mm hex socket 3/8 extension 3" or 5" for far rear lower bolt
3. Dust deflector will most likely rust to the hub so removing may be tricky. one hub spit, but beating the living s..t out of it in strategic places with shimmies will loosen it up
4. Clean dust deflector from rust and alight speed sensor hole
5. Follow the about above DIY (post #10)

In other words:

Push axle back to gain access to 4 bolts holding the bearing (no need to remove dust deflector) - that's the only difference between LS and GS bearing removal


P.S. If this info has been covered - i'm sorry, i couldn't find it so i thought i'd share my experience. Overall it took me about 8 hours (probably less, because i did it in two days)

P.P.S I used too many tools, you don't need all that. All you really need for tools is 1/2" for axles nut with 32mm 12 point socket(Sears) and 3/8" for 10mm hex, screw driver to align dust deflector. Couple more tools for taking off the wheel and brake caliper: 21mm wheel nuts & 17mm caliper bolts

P.P.P.S if i forgot something please let me know, i was also doing brakes, ballasts, bulbs, sensors and some other little things on this car so some info could be mixed or forgotten

Originally Posted by Teamrpr

Can someone tell me if this would this be the same procedure to follow for a 2006 GS 300? Or somewhere to find that procedure. I have to tackle this job tomorrow

Originally Posted by Teamrpr

Can someone tell me if this would this be the same procedure to follow for a 2006 GS 300? Or somewhere to find that procedure. I have to tackle this job tomorrow

Originally Posted by ThinlaneT

You may also need a extra set of hands to help out on the handbrake reinstall and reinstall the hub on the suspension.

Originally Posted by ThinlaneT

I was able to finish the job this morning. Still dreadfull task to do the handbrake thing back with just two hands (and the bearing already installed). Eventually with an extra set of hands it was done quickly. I used all the torque specifications of the IS250 for all the suspension parts (Only sheet I could find for the same era car), as it uses the same axle housing and suspension/rods as the GS300. Also the axle nut which is at 103nm torqued on the IS250, while the LS430 (as refered in this post) is torqued at 290nm. I played it save on this point, chosing for the common specs of the IS250 rather than the LS430. I did a testrun (fingers crossed) and the bearing humm noise was gone. Thank god.....