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I've used the search engine in here extensively (along with Google too) and can't find a specific answers to my questions. I want to make my OEM wheels (17" on 2010 GS350 AWD) flush with the body. If I went with 15mm or 20mm hubcentric spacers, a.) is there a more preferred brand over another?, b.) how long would the lug bolts need to be for the 15mm spacers and the 20mm spacers, c.) would putting longer studs in be something I could do at home or would I have to have a shop do it? Do our cars use the 12.5mm stud bolt?
With the adapters I could go 5 x 114.3 to 5 x 114.3 and I have found widths ranging from 20mm to 25mm. Would the adapters just be the cheapest and easiest way to go rather than fiddling around with longer studs? Wouldn't longer studs be more prone to breaking from shear force?
As far as brand. I'd go with Eibach or H&R. There are professional race cars that do use spacers to correct their setup because of the use of 1pc wheels. If you're thinking of running a large spacer (10mm+) with extended studs, then yes I personally believe it may be more prone to breaking. If you wanted to run 7-10mm spacer with ext studs, you should be fine. On my last car I ran a 7mm spacer and only had 5-6 turns. They said 6 turns is enough but I had that feeling you get going over a speed bump, but the whole time I was driving! haha. If i were to run a 7-10mm spacer again, then I'd extend my studs to be safe.
From what I understand, this guy ran spacer and extended studs. :| so this may answer your question a bit.
The conversion spacer would be your best bet if you're trying to go as far as 20mm or more. You'd need 5x114 to 5x114 12x1.5. I know people that track/drift and they've had no problems with it. Remember its all about maintenance and you need to make sure torque it down correctly. You NEED to frequently check. The first month check it once every 10-15 days. then the 2nd month and on once every month. I actually read a few months ago on this thread on Zilvia about people using cheap Ebay spacers and even then they had to no problem running conversion spacers. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=153876
Another thing to think about is if you buy a 20mm spacer you stock studs may stick out a little out of the spacer. Make sure your wheel will clear these inner studs. I know a 1 inch/25mm spacer will clear the studs because the spacer itself extends further/flush with the inner studs.
Here's an example of a 25mm spacer mounted. See how the inner studs are pretty much flush with the edge of the spacer.
now here's a 20mm spacer and the studs are actually sticking out a bit. Just make sure your stock wheels will clear.
I too have been do my research on spacers because I myself use 1 piece wheels on my car and been looking at the pros and cons of using wide spacers for correction. I'll let you know if my wheels fly off on the freeway :P hahaha
Thank you to all who have contributed; it is very much appreciated! Another "option" (maybe) I have are a set of wheels I've had in my garage for eight months. They are not staggered; all of them are 20" x 8.5" TSW Snetterton's.
This is a pic of the wheels (stock photo) and a pic of some lucky tosser with them on his IS250. Now, to me those definitely do not look staggered because if they were they would have a deep dish in the rear (see pic of black GS with chrome Snetterton's).
Wheel:
Non-staggered:
Staggered:
I have a company that has wheel adapters that are 20mm. They adapt from our 5 x 114.3 rotor to my 5 x 120 TSW wheels (which I received as a gift). The adapters are about $400 custom made. No doubt I would need to roll the fenders like a mother to fit them in there but I would have to do that with anything if I want a more flush look with larger tires (via adapters) I imagine, especially if I intend to lower it a maximum of 1". I also have a guy who will roll the fender's for me for about $300. He runs a very good shop in Candia, New Hampshire.
I ultimately want to go with this setup at the end of the day after giving it a lot of time to mull over it. I can always swap things back to stock for winter or just keep it in the garage and use my beater 2000 Camry for four (okay, six) months out of the year. Nah...I hate that Camry.
As far as brand. I'd go with Eibach or H&R. There are professional race cars that do use spacers to correct their setup because of the use of 1pc wheels. If you're thinking of running a large spacer (10mm+) with extended studs, then yes I personally believe it may be more prone to breaking. If you wanted to run 7-10mm spacer with ext studs, you should be fine. On my last car I ran a 7mm spacer and only had 5-6 turns. They said 6 turns is enough but I had that feeling you get going over a speed bump, but the whole time I was driving! haha. If i were to run a 7-10mm spacer again, then I'd extend my studs to be safe.
From what I understand, this guy ran spacer and extended studs. :| so this may answer your question a bit.
Daa---amn!
Originally Posted by YogiFTLC
The conversion spacer would be your best bet if you're trying to go as far as 20mm or more. You'd need 5x114 to 5x114 12x1.5. I know people that track/drift and they've had no problems with it. Remember its all about maintenance and you need to make sure torque it down correctly. You NEED to frequently check. The first month check it once every 10-15 days. then the 2nd month and on once every month. I actually read a few months ago on this thread on Zilvia about people using cheap Ebay spacers and even then they had to no problem running conversion spacers. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=153876
Another thing to think about is if you buy a 20mm spacer you stock studs may stick out a little out of the spacer. Make sure your wheel will clear these inner studs. I know a 1 inch/25mm spacer will clear the studs because the spacer itself extends further/flush with the inner studs.
Here's an example of a 25mm spacer mounted. See how the inner studs are pretty much flush with the edge of the spacer.
These are brilliant. Love the interchangeable rotors (they look removable; argh, you know what I mean). Gold anodized too.
Originally Posted by YogiFTLC
now here's a 20mm spacer and the studs are actually sticking out a bit. Just make sure your stock wheels will clear.
Now this...this looks ridiculous
Originally Posted by YogiFTLC
I too have been do my research on spacers because I myself use 1 piece wheels on my car and been looking at the pros and cons of using wide spacers for correction. I'll let you know if my wheels fly off on the freeway :P hahaha
Thank you. This is extremely helpful. I'm glad I'm not alone in this hunt!
Any idea if I could get away with the 5 x 114.3 --> 5 x 120 adapters? I would have to roll and flare the fenders (are those the same thing or two different things?) and fit them on non-staggered with 245/30/R20 tires? About a one inch drop or so using a complete Sage RCA kit found here:
Flared will give you tons of room to avoid rubbing, as you're extending the fender. If you've seen the 350z or 370z they have a noticeable flare that comes stock. I think you meant shaved though. Rolling or shaving are the two that are commonly done to gain that little bit of wiggle room to avoid rubbing. Here's a little diagram that you gives you a better idea
Mistahoo that graphic you did up was outstanding. I have heard about shaving but never knew what it meant. The flares are hardcore and yes, I do know what you mean now that I think about it on the Z's. My Porsche 944 turbo (R.I.P.) had huge fender flares from the factory. I had either 10" or 10.5" wide tires in the back on BBS rims.
07-27-14, 09:44 AM
Adapters or Spacers?
