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GS - 3rd Gen (2006-2011) Discussion about the 2006+ model GS300, GS350, GS430, GS450H and GS460

just picked up a gs 430

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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #16  
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darinmg
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Mine is pearl too...just said white for simplicity :-)
The Fsports drop 1" front and back and the spring rate is 20% stiffer than stock.
The NF210 drop is 1.1" front and 0.8" back and the spring rate is 5% stiffer than stock. My NF210 drop is very mild and perfectly balanced. The fsport don't produce a perfectly even gap (stock is uneven, and the springs drop same front and back).
I researched this to death before I did mine, and the majority are happy with the NF210s and the others who did the fsports are mostly unhappy (uneven drop and very stiff ride).
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:17 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by darinmg
Mine is pearl too...just said white for simplicity :-)
The Fsports drop 1" front and back and the spring rate is 20% stiffer than stock.
The NF210 drop is 1.1" front and 0.8" back and the spring rate is 5% stiffer than stock. My NF210 drop is very mild and perfectly balanced. The fsport don't produce a perfectly even gap (stock is uneven, and the springs drop same front and back).
I researched this to death before I did mine, and the majority are happy with the NF210s and the others who did the fsports are mostly unhappy (uneven drop and very stiff ride).
thanks for the reply and i will take that into consideration as well when i make the switch to nf210.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:18 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by worker
Look like it need to be recalibrate. It can be done easily by holding the button and just let it cycle through. When it stop, that's when the calibration is done. Than open should open and close should close. This happen when the vehicle lost power. I had to do the same when I replace my battery. Thanks to a thread on here that I learn this calibration.
ill look into that post topic shortly to redo mine because i dont want to have water entering thinking that its closed
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:21 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BinaryJay
Well, you picked up a car.
lol
speaking of the weight, the vehicle does feel heavy when compared to my is300. i guess im still learning how to handle this boat of a vehicle. my sound system is cracking sometimes not sure whats going on with the speakers ill have to take a look today while the sun is out.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 11:43 AM
  #20  
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Nice pick up. The ML speakers are 'ok' but the bass could use a little more bump and crispness between the mids and the lows. I'm considering swapping out the existing sub(s) and putting an aftermarket 8" or 10" in place of it, but haven 't decided on what brand...and how easy it is to do. Congrats!
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Old May 11, 2014 | 03:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Steve2424
Nice pick up. The ML speakers are 'ok' but the bass could use a little more bump and crispness between the mids and the lows. I'm considering swapping out the existing sub(s) and putting an aftermarket 8" or 10" in place of it, but haven 't decided on what brand...and how easy it is to do. Congrats!
Thanks
I wouldn't mind changing out the speakers. Do you which will work without adding an amp? I would like to do a direct swap. I really need to get my iPhone adapter because I'm using a cassette tape adapter....horrible lol.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 05:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Steve2424
The ML speakers are 'ok' but the bass could use a little more bump and crispness between the mids and the lows. I'm considering swapping out the existing sub(s) and putting an aftermarket 8" or 10" in place of it, but haven 't decided on what brand...and how easy it is to do.
The ML sub is an odd 14-ohm unit. If you want to drive a new subwoofer, you will probably want to use a separate amp. I show how to connect a sub amp to the ML system in the "Kicker" link in my sig.

One of the options the new amp brings is to get improved bass quality from the existing subwoofer. Try that first, as it may do the job for you as it did for me. Then if you decide to go for the new sub, all the electronics are ready to go.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 11:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DrexLex
The ML sub is an odd 14-ohm unit. If you want to drive a new subwoofer, you will probably want to use a separate amp. I show how to connect a sub amp to the ML system in the "Kicker" link in my sig.

One of the options the new amp brings is to get improved bass quality from the existing subwoofer. Try that first, as it may do the job for you as it did for me. Then if you decide to go for the new sub, all the electronics are ready to go.
I'm most likely looking to go aftermarket sub and amp. I had a maxima with Bose recently and when I put in subs and amp, it required new wiring for the stock amp to power just the speakers and the sub and amp to work separately. Eventually I'll make the jump lol. Don't get me wrong the ML is GOOD, but I would like a deeper bass for the music I listen to.
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