Cheaper alternative to Prestigious Society Nav bypass module? (review starting #50)
01-15-11, 11:41 AM
#61
You "dont" have to run the wire. It only gives you unlimited time. Honestly Im not sure its worth the extra work to install it that way. I had originally installed mine as you see in the DIY thread.
Funny thing I used this for maybe the first month and havent touched it since.
Funny thing I used this for maybe the first month and havent touched it since.
01-16-11, 03:08 PM
#62
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Ok guys I finally got the NVK kit installed on my GS and I am happy to say that its working as advertised 
. I am able to have the override on indefinitely also.
There is one caveat though...we had to lengthen some of the wires by about 40in, so that the kit could reach the unit in the back of the glove box. BS said that in the future all kits will have the wires with the proper length.
Big thanks to Eric at BS as he was always very responsive and answered all my phone calls and emails very quickly. He also gave me a pretty good discount on the kit as he needed a USDM 3GS car to test the harness. I had the install done at JT audio in Anaheim. They work closely with BS and did a good job on the install. The install price was pretty reasonable as well.
I won't post many pics of the whole install process as you can find similar threads on CL. I mainly post pics of the install in the back of the glove box as some people were confused by that.
Lengthening the wires. Future NVK kits won't have this issue.
I didn't take step by step pics of the glove box install process. All I can say is that you basically pry the trim on the side with the duct and start unscrewing your way in.
After you take apart the glove box trim you will find a metal box close to the passenger side door. There is a single connector where the NVK kit can plug into. The connector only fits in 1 plug, so you can't miss it.
Final placement of the switch.
In summary I would definitely recommend this kit to everyone who is considering an override kit and don't need/want DVD override. The fact that is so much cheaper than the PS kit doesn't hurt either
. I am able to have the override on indefinitely also. There is one caveat though...we had to lengthen some of the wires by about 40in, so that the kit could reach the unit in the back of the glove box. BS said that in the future all kits will have the wires with the proper length.
Big thanks to Eric at BS as he was always very responsive and answered all my phone calls and emails very quickly. He also gave me a pretty good discount on the kit as he needed a USDM 3GS car to test the harness. I had the install done at JT audio in Anaheim. They work closely with BS and did a good job on the install. The install price was pretty reasonable as well.
I won't post many pics of the whole install process as you can find similar threads on CL. I mainly post pics of the install in the back of the glove box as some people were confused by that.
Lengthening the wires. Future NVK kits won't have this issue.
I didn't take step by step pics of the glove box install process. All I can say is that you basically pry the trim on the side with the duct and start unscrewing your way in.
After you take apart the glove box trim you will find a metal box close to the passenger side door. There is a single connector where the NVK kit can plug into. The connector only fits in 1 plug, so you can't miss it.
Final placement of the switch.
In summary I would definitely recommend this kit to everyone who is considering an override kit and don't need/want DVD override. The fact that is so much cheaper than the PS kit doesn't hurt either
Last edited by bolido; 01-16-11 at 03:19 PM.
01-16-11, 05:42 PM
#63
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What a beautiful thing man thanks for sharing. I did not get out today to finish mine up. Did you have to score a longer remote cable or were you able to work with length they gave us considering it now comes from the back of the glove box. I like where you have yours.
Last edited by mrblack; 01-17-11 at 08:20 AM.
01-16-11, 07:00 PM
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Thw PS kit also has you go to the back of the NAV unit in the glovebox per their instructions. It uses the same connectors.
Last edited by mrblack; 01-17-11 at 07:21 AM.
01-16-11, 09:15 PM
#67
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Thread Starter
The cable for the connector is long enough. The only wires that need extending are the black/blue/red.
If you don't hook up the connector to the box in the back of the glove box, the override only last 30 secs. On the freeway when doing 80mph, that times goes down to 15 secs (according to BS). To be honest the extra step to access the back of the glove box only takes about extra 20 mins. Worth the extra effort IMO.
If you don't hook up the connector to the box in the back of the glove box, the override only last 30 secs. On the freeway when doing 80mph, that times goes down to 15 secs (according to BS). To be honest the extra step to access the back of the glove box only takes about extra 20 mins. Worth the extra effort IMO.
01-16-11, 09:27 PM
#68
The cable for the connector is long enough. The only wires that need extending are the black/blue/red.
If you don't hook up the connector to the box in the back of the glove box, the override only last 30 secs. On the freeway when doing 80mph, that times goes down to 15 secs (according to BS). To be honest the extra step to access the back of the glove box only takes about extra 20 mins. Worth the extra effort IMO.
If you don't hook up the connector to the box in the back of the glove box, the override only last 30 secs. On the freeway when doing 80mph, that times goes down to 15 secs (according to BS). To be honest the extra step to access the back of the glove box only takes about extra 20 mins. Worth the extra effort IMO.
01-17-11, 12:06 AM
#69
just posted a review between both the BS and the PS kit, more details and apple to apple comparison (full override)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post6069922
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post6069922
01-17-11, 12:13 AM
#70
bolido, nice review obviously i had to go through the same trouble today to even attempt the install, as expected.
i have to say it's quite a bummer that BS never even tested the kit on the cars before putting them on the market? that doesn't sound good. so we are all beta testers? maybe they should give discount to people who got the kit already (including my friend) as well coz' they are all into the same boat.
what bolido showed is ONLY the nav override. if you want video, that's another freaking unit and another box. read my other review about it. the two boxes together are so big it's not even funny. i am all for clean smooth integration but these boxes kind of look out of place. my friend wanted to have the override accessible easily by both the driver and passenger, and we couldn't find a location that makes sense.
not to mention, obviously you want to hide these buttons (too big), and by then it's going to be so hard to tell the status of the override, whether it's on or not
it's a tough call. it works (well, after modification, when it happens) for a cheaper price, but comes with some downsides too. my 2 cents
obviously i had to go through the same trouble today to even attempt the install, as expected. not to mention, obviously you want to hide these buttons (too big), and by then it's going to be so hard to tell the status of the override, whether it's on or not
it's a tough call. it works (well, after modification, when it happens) for a cheaper price, but comes with some downsides too. my 2 cents
01-17-11, 03:25 PM
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Here is how to change the big switch out for a DPDT (double pole double throw) more discrete rocker switch.
I cut the end off of a network cable and made the following connections. The colors in my diagram is as they were on my cable which most netwrok cables will follow the same standard. Please use my little picture as a guide. The uncut end will go to the brain board part of the harness. I used Radio shack switch model 275-691.
Cable/wire to Switch Pin
Wire 1 to Pin 1
Wire 2 to Pin 2
Wire 3 to Pin 4
Wire 4 to Pin 5
Wire 5 unused
Wire 6 unused
Wire 7 to Pin 3
Wire 8 to Pin 6
I verified the correct wire to pin config on the new switch by using a multi-meter to do continuity tests between each pin with the BS supplied switch in the on and off positions. Then verified against my store bought rocker switch that the behavior was the same. If you look at the back of the supplied switch PCB you can easily see 4 of the traces from the cable you have to look very carfull on the front side to see the other 2. My diagram above documents this for you so you dont have to trace them your self.
Switch
I placed it in the coin tray slot using the coin tray to keep the switch locked in place.
I needed the shave the top of the coin try down to compensate for the lip thickness on the switch. The coin tray would not click in otherwise. Also had to drill a hole in the bottom for the the wires/connectors. When shaving the depth do small amounts and keep checking fitment. Can always take a littel more off, not so easy to put it back. Switch will fit loose of you do too much.
You'll notice I had to shave the corners of the switch down a bit to fit the stock cutout.
I direct soldered the wires to the plug as I did not have the right sized connectors. Once soldered I coated all connections liberally with liquid electrical tape. I put some regular elec tape around that as it set and skimmed over so i did not make a mess. I did not have time to let it dry all the way through.
I cut the end off of a network cable and made the following connections. The colors in my diagram is as they were on my cable which most netwrok cables will follow the same standard. Please use my little picture as a guide. The uncut end will go to the brain board part of the harness. I used Radio shack switch model 275-691.
Cable/wire to Switch Pin
Wire 1 to Pin 1
Wire 2 to Pin 2
Wire 3 to Pin 4
Wire 4 to Pin 5
Wire 5 unused
Wire 6 unused
Wire 7 to Pin 3
Wire 8 to Pin 6
I verified the correct wire to pin config on the new switch by using a multi-meter to do continuity tests between each pin with the BS supplied switch in the on and off positions. Then verified against my store bought rocker switch that the behavior was the same. If you look at the back of the supplied switch PCB you can easily see 4 of the traces from the cable you have to look very carfull on the front side to see the other 2. My diagram above documents this for you so you dont have to trace them your self.
Switch
I placed it in the coin tray slot using the coin tray to keep the switch locked in place.
I needed the shave the top of the coin try down to compensate for the lip thickness on the switch. The coin tray would not click in otherwise. Also had to drill a hole in the bottom for the the wires/connectors. When shaving the depth do small amounts and keep checking fitment. Can always take a littel more off, not so easy to put it back. Switch will fit loose of you do too much.
You'll notice I had to shave the corners of the switch down a bit to fit the stock cutout.
I direct soldered the wires to the plug as I did not have the right sized connectors. Once soldered I coated all connections liberally with liquid electrical tape. I put some regular elec tape around that as it set and skimmed over so i did not make a mess. I did not have time to let it dry all the way through.
Last edited by mrblack; 01-17-11 at 03:37 PM.
01-29-11, 09:44 AM
#73
I dud the diy method almost 3 years ago and can also watch my video iPod while car is in motion after the diy does either one of these kits allow that. I Also have full access to my iPod menus the only time I have to hit my navi over ride switch is to set destination while driving. All tour doing is tricking the speed sensor wire and ground another wire out forgot what that wire was it was so long ago. Also my switch was made right in to the extra accessory blank on the center arm rest looks all oem and stuff, no need for a random switch sticking out. Also it's full reversible just connect the wires back to oem and heat wrap it.
