LED Trunk Lights Hack
jason
because I spliced into the wires that feed the original trunk light, each one maintains independent control. It is just like having that same original light with its switch in a 2nd spot. So, you can turn either off by itself and they stay off. you can turn both on independently, which is what i do and they shut off when trunk closes. I cant take the 2nd housing out because remember i cut into the felt / plastic liner to mount it and i dont think taking it out unless necessary is a good idea since it can warp the plastic, You will see the thin leads to which you need to tap into, get creative, i had slim quick connects that worked good. The wire is any 2 lead wire, i used some 20 gauge multi conductor wire, in fact i ran two single leads, you could easily use 18 speaker wire since this is a very low current system.
because I spliced into the wires that feed the original trunk light, each one maintains independent control. It is just like having that same original light with its switch in a 2nd spot. So, you can turn either off by itself and they stay off. you can turn both on independently, which is what i do and they shut off when trunk closes. I cant take the 2nd housing out because remember i cut into the felt / plastic liner to mount it and i dont think taking it out unless necessary is a good idea since it can warp the plastic, You will see the thin leads to which you need to tap into, get creative, i had slim quick connects that worked good. The wire is any 2 lead wire, i used some 20 gauge multi conductor wire, in fact i ran two single leads, you could easily use 18 speaker wire since this is a very low current system.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: MO
I finished my trunk LED hack this weekend and it looks/works great
Thanks to all the submissions here for ideas. I used the 31mm festoon bulb & wired in 2 remote ALMx6 at the left & rear of the trunk.
I did get the rocker switch in the main light insert to work with the festoon and it also controls the 2 remotes. The key is to bend the left clip carefully for the extra room, additionally I soldered a small stranded wire to a 3/8 washer and placed it between the festoon and the left clip for my switched B+ feed. The negative wire can be soldered on the top bar or spliced in the the main clip feed. I also put a 1/2" foam strip behind the festoon bulb to keep the LED's from rotating during rocker arm manipulation.
Rock on!
Thanks to all the submissions here for ideas. I used the 31mm festoon bulb & wired in 2 remote ALMx6 at the left & rear of the trunk.
I did get the rocker switch in the main light insert to work with the festoon and it also controls the 2 remotes. The key is to bend the left clip carefully for the extra room, additionally I soldered a small stranded wire to a 3/8 washer and placed it between the festoon and the left clip for my switched B+ feed. The negative wire can be soldered on the top bar or spliced in the the main clip feed. I also put a 1/2" foam strip behind the festoon bulb to keep the LED's from rotating during rocker arm manipulation.
Rock on!
close ups.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: MO
There are good pics here with the stock light dissasembled and the Festoon LED in place. The wired washer is the only addition. My remote wires are so short I don't think I can get the light out far enough to take another pic!
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,201
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
jason
because I spliced into the wires that feed the original trunk light, each one maintains independent control. It is just like having that same original light with its switch in a 2nd spot. So, you can turn either off by itself and they stay off. you can turn both on independently, which is what i do and they shut off when trunk closes. I cant take the 2nd housing out because remember i cut into the felt / plastic liner to mount it and i dont think taking it out unless necessary is a good idea since it can warp the plastic, You will see the thin leads to which you need to tap into, get creative, i had slim quick connects that worked good. The wire is any 2 lead wire, i used some 20 gauge multi conductor wire, in fact i ran two single leads, you could easily use 18 speaker wire since this is a very low current system.
because I spliced into the wires that feed the original trunk light, each one maintains independent control. It is just like having that same original light with its switch in a 2nd spot. So, you can turn either off by itself and they stay off. you can turn both on independently, which is what i do and they shut off when trunk closes. I cant take the 2nd housing out because remember i cut into the felt / plastic liner to mount it and i dont think taking it out unless necessary is a good idea since it can warp the plastic, You will see the thin leads to which you need to tap into, get creative, i had slim quick connects that worked good. The wire is any 2 lead wire, i used some 20 gauge multi conductor wire, in fact i ran two single leads, you could easily use 18 speaker wire since this is a very low current system.
If not no problem, I am sure I will figure it out as I go, just like to know exactly what I am getting in to before I proceed.
As oh now I have the wire, the extra housing, and am waiting on 2 9 LED's that I ordered. Anything else I need? washers? anything?
jason
i used these things to connect 2 wires to the new housing, i insulated these after i crimped them to fit snugly. You can use electric tape or better yet soe shrink tubing, you dont want the 2 to touch the leads. it does not matter which is which. The splice was done simply by "shaving" some of the wire insulation from the original light, i would recommend using those little quick connect things, i did not have any, but 2nd pic shows what i am talking about
.
i used these things to connect 2 wires to the new housing, i insulated these after i crimped them to fit snugly. You can use electric tape or better yet soe shrink tubing, you dont want the 2 to touch the leads. it does not matter which is which. The splice was done simply by "shaving" some of the wire insulation from the original light, i would recommend using those little quick connect things, i did not have any, but 2nd pic shows what i am talking about
.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: CA
LOL, great minds think alike
Props to you for the mod! I thought of the dim trunk light as well but I wasn't as brave so my solution was different (perhaps easier for people who aren't as dexterous with their hands lol). I actually spotted @ costco a 3-Pack Wireless LED w/ Metallic Gray Finish (~$13) that has the "auto on" feature (turns on when it detects a little bit of ambient light). They came with velcro stickers to be taped on the back; there are 2 grooves in the top portion of the GS trunk are perfect fit for the 2 "auto-on dome LED lights." Very bright and comes on simultaneously w/ the stock light on the right side of the trunk.
However I could not find a LED festoon bulb that will NOT interfere with the on/off switch to replace the stock bulb, which is about 27mm (I had to return a DE3021 LED bulb because it was 4mm longer, or 31mm and WILL interefere w/ the swtich). Please let me know if anyone can get the 27mm festoon DE3021 LED bulb. Here's a picture of my installed trunk LEDs:
However I could not find a LED festoon bulb that will NOT interfere with the on/off switch to replace the stock bulb, which is about 27mm (I had to return a DE3021 LED bulb because it was 4mm longer, or 31mm and WILL interefere w/ the swtich). Please let me know if anyone can get the 27mm festoon DE3021 LED bulb. Here's a picture of my installed trunk LEDs:
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: CA
man you guys are so dexterous w/ your hands... but weren't the dome LEDs I installed a lot brighter than the regular modded LEDs that kuch123 and you tapped and wired?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: CA
