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It depends on how deep into the dash you need to get. You can pull the instrument cluster without dropping the steering, but if you want to go further dropping the dash is a BIG job. You pretty much have to dismantle everything from the center console storage boxes forward to get it off. There are several wiring harnesses that are clipped to the underside of the dash so you need to either cut the wire ties or fiddle with the screws holding the clips in place.
it took me most of a day to get it apart and a day and a half to get it all back together. Lexus builds the car with precision, and it must be put back together in the exact reverse order to the way it was disassembled. If you have to force anything, it means that you missed a step and you have to go back. It’s an interesting challenge.
Thanks for the heads up, I imagine dismantling isn't too bad, I did up to the steering wheel on a few parts car, never went about the steering column, I figured passenger side would be a pain. I guess if there isn't anything in there causing a few volt drops or charging system related then no point right?
Thanks for the heads up, I imagine dismantling isn't too bad, I did up to the steering wheel on a few parts car, never went about the steering column, I figured passenger side would be a pain. I guess if there isn't anything in there causing a few volt drops or charging system related then no point right?
on the passenger side removing the glove box is easy and should give you access to most of the critical wiring, just be careful of the bright yellow air bag wire,
on the passenger side removing the glove box is easy and should give you access to most of the critical wiring, just be careful of the bright yellow air bag wire,
I appreciate the heads ups, I guess I'll check a few things out when I'm off wed-fri
I didn’t notice if you said what the voltage the battery is reading with the car off. Odd you’re not getting the voltage light if it’s charging that low and the battery needs it.
I didn’t notice if you said what the voltage the battery is reading with the car off. Odd you’re not getting the voltage light if it’s charging that low and the battery needs it.
My bad, it's almost always over 12.3-12.4. Even after many start up it returns to that, though I didn't check it after my last one.
My bad, it's almost always over 12.3-12.4. Even after many start up it returns to that, though I didn't check it after my last one.
So in reality the alternator is charging the battery properly. Maybe the tool you’re using to measure voltage is bad. Or your trying to check the voltage when the battery is already fully charged and the voltage regulator is no longer charging the battery since it’s already charged
So in reality the alternator is charging the battery properly. Maybe the tool you’re using to measure voltage is bad. Or your trying to check the voltage when the battery is already fully charged and the voltage regulator is no longer charging the battery since it’s already charged
Well that's what I kinda thought but my buddy used my same multimeter on his Durango and it read 14.4 running, maybe my blim battery is bad?
[QUOTE=AveryWhite;11457077]Well that's what I kinda thought but my buddy used my same multimeter on his Durango and it read 14.4 running, maybe my blim battery is bad?
it has to be charging at more than 11 volts for the battery to be charged. Maybe it’s because of where you are checking the voltage from. I use an ELM 327 obd2 reader and the obd fusion app.
Well that's what I kinda thought but my buddy used my same multimeter on his Durango and it read 14.4 running, maybe my blim battery is bad?
it has to be charging at more than 11 volts for the battery to be charged. Maybe it’s because of where you are checking the voltage from. I use an ELM 327 obd2 reader and the obd fusion app.
I wonder why it always went back above 12, only thing the it seems to idle weird, when it did read over 12 running when I first got the battery it was still running smooth, also still don't know why my battery light doesn't work, a few videos online show if it doesn't work in on position it won't let alternator charge, but I guess I'm getting charged, still quite a headache haha
It might be idling weird because discontinuing the battery resets the ECM back to factory specs. If your throttle body butterfly is dirty, it could could be allowing more air into the engine than the ECM calculates for. That could cause it. Just a guess of course.
It might be idling weird because discontinuing the battery resets the ECM back to factory specs. If your throttle body butterfly is dirty, it could could be allowing more air into the engine than the ECM calculates for. That could cause it. Just a guess of course.
Paul
That does make sense, I know my brother basically cleaned everything when we did the rebuild. I wouldn't think throttle body needs cleaning but also any suggestions to fix rpm gauge? Will it make my car run weird or shift bad
Did he take out the throttle position sensor when he cleaned the throttle body? You have to know how to put it back in and adjust it.
Not sure honestly, rpm gauge worked before rebuild, but it ran smooth as hell when we were done, only when battery started draining is when it started idling weird-old battery ran at 14v but drained rather quick- got 2nd battery and removed amp wire from terminal then no drain but also no 14v
last 2 major things I noticed, can't say there's any correlation but I thought I would mention it
Dang Dude. I love a challenge more than most but your harness is TRASH! Do you have a salvage yard somewhere close that you can hit up? I just can't believe the amount of issues I see every time you take a photo. And what is that metal tube in your second photo that seems to be hanging out in the air. Or broke? It starts towards the top right side of the picture and goes out the bottom left.
Paul
Last edited by Raven01750; Mar 1, 2023 at 11:54 AM.