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GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

2004 GS300 need help!

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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 12:14 AM
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From: GA
Angry 2004 GS300 need help!

Ok so I have replaced almost everything on this motor, I have put allot of heart and hard work into it. I can't find out why it won't start. It cranks but doesn't start, I have checked all the fuses and relays in the engine bay. I also have one wire that doesn't seem to connect to anything to, it's close to the alternator, water pump, and air box. I already have the alternator, leak detection evap, and all O2 sensors plugged in.


Things I have put on the car new

Alternator (it ran with it before head rebuild)
Catalytic Converters
Intake and Extake Valves
VVT-I Gear (Rebuilt by myself but I checked to see if the valve would be touching, their not)
Engine Bay Harness

I had also lapped the valves as well. I did a liquid test and the head passed.


Where does this go, towards the air box?
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 02:38 AM
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Also if anyone could send me a picture of what's supposed to be there that would be cool.
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 08:03 AM
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Check if you have spark
Check if you have fuel pressure
Check for vacuum leaks
and get back to us with the results if that doesn't reveal the issue.
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 03:22 PM
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The fuel pump usually plays out around 200 to 225k miles if they were all highway miles.
At 55mph that's about 3400-4000 hours. If many of the miles have been city miles it could have reached that point.

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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 06:20 PM
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Was it running fine before the work? And just won’t start now that you have it back together?
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 11:41 PM
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Check the plug connection at coils(total x3). Trust me and check them. You have to take the Y pipe off the intake to check them. Those motors have unnecessary factory engine cover over and that causes so much heat generation to deteriorate the wiring to the coils.
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gs300maste
Check the plug connection at coils(total x3). Trust me and check them. You have to take the Y pipe off the intake to check them. Those motors have unnecessary factory engine cover over and that causes so much heat generation to deteriorate the wiring to the coils.
Yes, I had this issue also. If a coil is unplugged, the ECM will throw a P1300 code. This essentially means there is a fault on the igniter circuit, of which the computer will cut all fuel to the engine. It sounds like it's firing for the first few seconds upon initial cranking, but then it just sounds like its cranking and not firing.

Last edited by Yri; Jun 13, 2021 at 01:13 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2021 | 03:58 PM
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Ok so I did test on the fuel pump and it, it showed 0.8 ohms instead of 0.2 or 0.3 ohms, it however kept priming itself and though the cars starts up. It's now having a misfire on cylinder 3 plus a burning plastic smell and now the car won't run. Such a lemon from the previous owners.

For the history this thing was smoking due to a burnt/chipped exhaust valve so I replaced all of them, and yes I lapped the valves.
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Old Jun 27, 2021 | 11:48 PM
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From: GA
Default I found multiple issues

So this motor has almost 250,000 miles I found out that the crankshaft position sensor was not correct and was cut. I have also found out that the Pistons are slapping the cylinders, I also have low compression due to the valve seats. I need to reseal everything and I'm not buying a car from this guy ever again. But the fuel pump is going out as well.
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Old Jun 28, 2021 | 05:42 AM
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Hate to say it, but at that kind of mileage and that many issues, it would probably be easier (and maybe cheaper) just to replace the engine. Take a look at the prices online and see what you think.

Last edited by Yri; Jun 28, 2021 at 05:45 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2021 | 12:07 AM
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I feel your pain!
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