Not sure where this goes, and I suppose this would also apply to the 02-05 SC430 and any other non 1UZ or 3UZ car.

Well, Right now I've got my heart set on a car with a UZ Series engine.

The important bits: I'd like to buy a running and driving SC 430 or GS 430, with a 3 year plan to reach a power goal of an absolute minimum of 600 RWHP on a streetable turbo build (because every race car is a show car, but not vice versa), and swap over to a CD009/CD00A Manual transmission (revision 2). I've seen that Collins makes an adapter kit which should mate ANY UZ engine.

So here are my questions, keep in mind I live in a state that doesn't have emissions testing (literally the one good thing about Alabama, at least as far as I'm gonna talk about, lol.)

First, for power levels between 650 and 900 RWHP, Does it make more sense to build a 1UZ and swap it in? should I look at a hybrid build with a 1UZ bottom end and 3UZ heads, or just build a 3UZ at that point?

My thought was that because the smaller bore of the 1UZ makes the block itself stronger. blocks are nearly Identical, and the heads are interchangeable for the most part. sleeve spacing is larger and the material is the same, so it'll be more structurally sound, at least in my head. The stock engine is going to be a 15 year old motor at best, it will be tired and if I boost a 300,000 mile motor, I'm gonna have a bad time, so it'll be swapped out regardless. I'll also be swapping over to a CD009 or CD00A because they hold a ton of power and automatics are super boring, imo.

Second, though this is largely opinion based: Is the SC 430 more of a sleeper than the GS 430?

I'm aware that putting a roll cage in an SC430 at 11 seconds (I'd be a fourth rate driver with a third rate build if I couldn't hit 11s with 600RWHP in these cars) will be considerably harder than putting a cage in a GS. Also the GS 430 will also have way more stuff to remove form the inside, and will therefore end up weighing considerably less.

Third: I have read that the 1UZ and 3UZ blocks are direct bolt into each other, but I can't say for sure because there are conflicting statements on this. If the only difference between the blocks comes down to the necessary holes for the vvti, then there's no issue here.

Fourth: As far as fueling goes, I'd like to use 93 for daily duty as long as possible. I'd also like to be able to swap over to 100 or E85 for days when I go to the track. What tuning solutions will allow me to run a flex fuel kit, and is either engine the better choice for this sort of thing? Is it possible to run a flex style tune like on a more modern vehicle or am I looking at a standalone ems at that point?

E85 is significantly cheaper to purchase, but neither is easy abundant out here. 100 octane will also have a longer shelf life as E85 is hydroscopic, so it absorbs water. 100 octane lasts longer and doesn't require as much fuel to achieve the same power levels, but also burns at a lower temperature thus requiring additional cooling.E85 from the pump is pretty loosely regulated and can vary wildly in actual Ethanol content value. Used to get E85 that would read as low as E65 in certain places on a build in a previous car, while other places would sell you E85 that was actually E90. E85 also requires significantly more fuel so further upgrades to the fuel system would absolutely be required. I'm trying to avoid having to completely redo the fuel lines on the car if possible.

Thanks! I'll keep searching for more info and update as I can.

(Mods, if this would be better in a different area please feel free to move this post)

-Lorelei

 

I think you will need to plan for a stand alone ecu. You are talking about major changes to everything from aspiration, to transmission, to e85 fuel etc. There will be many sensors and things added by the time you are done that need fine tuned. I don't know the differences between UZ engines, but if you're going this whole route, you might consider an LS swap because I think it will be much cheaper and easier to set it all up, boost, and tune it in the long run. I also think you will need to forge the internals to make the power you are after. Again, cheaper and easier job in an LS. Cheap and easy to cam upgrade as well. Either car will remain a sleeper either way, but to each their own. I think a UZ build with a CD009 and everything needed to do the swap, the complete turbo system and the multitude of supporting parts/mods, a fuel system sufficient enough for your power goals, and ECU setup is easily in the $20,000 range right off the bat.

 

Thanks for the reply!

I'm aware (and agree) that the LSx swap is a much better bang for the buck. However, some part of me really hates the idea of being the same as everyone else. That's the driving reason behind using the UZ over the 2JZ or LS.
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As far as the additions go, i was going with a custom turbo kit, as paying the rediculous cost for the existing turbo manifolds won't provide enough flow without being a restriction for my goals. Fiancee's dad is an excellent welder and said he would help with that.

The standalone was the big question here, so as far as those go, that decision will be dependent on who is tuning the car. Guess that's the next bit to look for.

Further additions: I will most likely be doing a rose champagne metallic wrap, or possibly do a twilight amethyst if I can get one and the paint isn't destroyed.

If anyone can chime in on how much stronger the 1uz blocks are over the 3uzs, that would be great!

​​​​​​​-Lorelei

 

You could add a methanol injection kit to cool the combustion temps down, and run regular 85 fuel. The advantages from methanol would be a big help with the numbers your talking about. You’ll be able to advance your timing to match the fuel grade your going to be running, e85 and methanol can produce some awesome power when combined with big boost. You’ll also be able to run the stock pistons and compression ratio without immediately burning up it down if you decide to build it in phases.
I would definitely suggest building a GS430 and save the convertible for date night. The aftermarket support available for the GS is extensive compared to the SC, they made 3or 4 times more GS than SC, so you’ll have a lot more options to choose from and even with a roll cage, the SC will never be capable of putting the power to the road as well as the solid foundation offered from the GS, I guess I could be biased tho…
The blocks, heads, intake, everything is pretty interchangeable. You’ll find the 1st generation (90-92) rods and pistons were huge compared to the later versions, I think the 2UZ actually has the weakest rods even though they are for the largest displacement option.
Look up the cartune factory in NZ, Kelvin has built thousands of UZ engines in all kinds of swaps and configurations imaginable. You’ll be able to learn about the trans swap, all the different management options available, and all the tricks to building it right. His YouTube channel gets more play in my house than anything else

 

I forgot to update that this project is dead in the water- Going to school for a Philosophy major to be an educator. Maybe in 10 years or so I'll pick the idea back up.

 

you're investing in a philosophy major for your actual job? the only people studying philosophy major should be people who are doing it because they already have their money set and having nothing else to do, plus you're dropping a boosted 3uz/1uz build to do it? bro stop it, it's not worth it, phylosophy doesn't need college majors, it just needs your braincells and some books, don't live in the matrix while studying how to escape it that makes no sense, you're like a crab in a lobster trap that's studying how to cook seafood chowder. don't drop the build, keep the dream alive. do it for the rest of us who can't.