So about to put my S&S headers on.

( I know some folks say you can do it w/o taking the engine out, but I just don’t feel like fighting wrenches in tight spaces)

Question: Can I lift the motor and trans by just the two hooks on the side of the intake manifold?

If I use straps around and under the motor, I’m afraid they’d bind across the headers and prevent me from removing em.

Thanks in advance.

 

Pulling an engine to put headers on? That's a bit over the top IMO. Are you doing this on the ground or on a lift? I'd just loosen the mounts and use a floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan if you need to gain clearance.

 

Doing it on the ground.
Yea, it’s just that I wasn’t able to wiggle heats shield out and thought it might just be easier to just pull the whole engine. Or lift it out a tad.

Let me take another look at just lifting it from the bottom.

thanks dude

 

If it were a 2zed six cycl, then it’d be easy no doubt.
Are you saying the 1uz should be just a easy?

#LookingForEncouragement lol

 

Factory service manual says yes, use the two engine hangers to lift the engine and transmission.

 

I agree to TrueGS300 I wouldn't think you need lifting the whole motor up to change headers. Ive never heard of it.

 

Yea, I agree I don’t have to remove the whole engine. Cool. Still, I’ll use my lift to lift it up a bit rather than support it from the bottom. Plus it’ll allow me to change my oil pan gasket while I’m down there.

Now, because I wanna make removing the header studs/nuts as easy as possible, I’m gonna get a cheap-o Benzomatic map/oxygen combo.

Q: Do I heat the stud, the nuts or around the base of the cylinder head?

Thanks in advance.

 

I'd just hit it with PB blaster the night before you plan to work on it and let it soak in. Then give them a try before going straight to heat. You might find them easy to work with.

 

Ok. I’m in no rush, I’ll get back to it this weekend.
But I’ll hit em each day with a shot of PB.

I just feel I’m not really a man until I torch a rusted bolt of a car - lol.

 

Yea ok. I see what ya mean.
Once I used the lift to raise the engine a tad, everything is pretty much within reach of a ratchet.
Its more of a PITA than difficult. Just tackling it a bit at a time.

 

This is a GS430 I pulled the engine out of yesterday. Trust me, you wouldn’t want to go this route lol. There is nothing to support the transmission, so it has to be pulled also. Which means exhaust, and driveshaft too of course. Not an easy task.

 

Yea, I’ve pulled 1uz motors two times before so I know what ya mean. Gonna drop me exhaust (since I’m “in the neighborhood”) and toss on the resonator delete I’ve had just sitting around.

With a lift, none of it’s really hard; just time consuming. Thanks to Corona, I’ve got more free time - lol.

Q: when you disconnected the ac compressor, did you capture the Freon first or just let it vent to the air?

 

I work at a shop, so of course we have a machine that I recovered the refrigerant with.

 

Sometimes I think I must be the slowest wrenched out there. 16 hours later I finally got one side (drivers, the hardest) out.

Sometimes I think I must be the slowest wrencher our there. 13 hours later I have one side (drivers, the hardest) out. I think a good six point socket was more important than the heat.

But the rest is just copy and paste pretty much.

One stud bolt was just too close to the tube and after trying every angle wrench and socket, I pulled out though saws all and just cut the damn tube out 😈.

Man, the factory headers are really restrictive!!!
Like exhaling thru a bent straw - lol