GS300 Key Wont Unlock The Door
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
GS300 Key Wont Unlock The Door
Hi, Bought my car about 3 months ago and the car only came with a key without keyless entry. Im guessing its either master or valet key. So I have been locking and unlocking the car by using a physical key inserted to the driver side door and that had not been an issue. I also wasnt really concerned about inconvenience as much since programming the fob at the dealership costs about few hundred $ to get done..... Today when I got off work and trying to unlock the door as usual by inserting the key into keyhole, nothing happens.....It did not unlock the door. I tried about few times and it finally unlocked the door. I thought the key on the front door was mechanical? Im not sure whats wrong with it.
#2
What year is the car?
If you just got a non-remote, sounds like you got just a valet key. And there's nothing special about that key, that I'm aware of... it sounds that you have a worn key, and should get a new one cut from the VIN, to be sure it has a clean cut.
Did you try the key from the passenger side?
Yet let us know your car year, so we can figure out how much pain you're in, from what appears to be not having a master key.
If you just got a non-remote, sounds like you got just a valet key. And there's nothing special about that key, that I'm aware of... it sounds that you have a worn key, and should get a new one cut from the VIN, to be sure it has a clean cut.
Did you try the key from the passenger side?
Yet let us know your car year, so we can figure out how much pain you're in, from what appears to be not having a master key.
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
What year is the car?
If you just got a non-remote, sounds like you got just a valet key. And there's nothing special about that key, that I'm aware of... it sounds that you have a worn key, and should get a new one cut from the VIN, to be sure it has a clean cut.
Did you try the key from the passenger side?
Yet let us know your car year, so we can figure out how much pain you're in, from what appears to be not having a master key.
If you just got a non-remote, sounds like you got just a valet key. And there's nothing special about that key, that I'm aware of... it sounds that you have a worn key, and should get a new one cut from the VIN, to be sure it has a clean cut.
Did you try the key from the passenger side?
Yet let us know your car year, so we can figure out how much pain you're in, from what appears to be not having a master key.
#6
Does the key lock/unlock the glove box, or the trunk-lockout (between the gas and trunk release buttons)?
If not, sounds like you have a valet key, and not a master key, and that it's time to come up with the $175 for a genuine Lexus key and cut, then the $300(?) to have the Lexus dealership program that master key.
If you bought a car without a master key, that should have been negotiated in to the price.
If not, sounds like you have a valet key, and not a master key, and that it's time to come up with the $175 for a genuine Lexus key and cut, then the $300(?) to have the Lexus dealership program that master key.
If you bought a car without a master key, that should have been negotiated in to the price.
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#8
Last question... when you insert the key in to the ignition cylinder, does the security light (the red light over the gas/trunk release button) go out immediately, or after a second or two?
The following users liked this post:
Gs300maste (03-02-19)
#12
So... sounds that you have a working master key (with the security light going out immediately after insertion). You can unlock the driver's door, start the car with the ignition, and unlock the trunk lock-out (which requires a master-key blank, the valet-key blank is physically different), yet the glove box and trunk don't work, and you haven't mentioned the status of the passenger door (please confirm that).
Personally, I'd get a new OEM Lexus master key/fob from eBay for about $145, then have Lexus (or a locksmith that can...) cut the key from the VIN... start from scratch, with a known good key, factory fresh, with no wear. Then on each cylinder, use penetrating oil (to loosen everything up), then lock cylinder graphite powder (the proper lock lubricant, do not use wd-40...).
Security: there's a great thread for this... you use the known-good master key to put the security ECU in to programming mode, then program in another master key.
Fob: also a great thread out there... you use a lock/door sequence to put the remote ECU in to programming mode, then program in the new key. Don't believe you even need an old fob, to program in a new key (unlike security, above).
Going with... the doors/igntion/trunk-lockout work. The trunk cylinder is probably seized, from 20yrs of crap rolling down the trunk lid, in to the cylinder... in 20yrs of buying cars in our region, every single one of them had to have the trunk cylinder rebuild, yet then again, we buy 20yr-old cars. If that's the case, take the cylinder out yourself, then take it to a qualified locksmith, and they can usually break it down and rebuild it to fresh, for $25. Same with the glovebox, yet surprised by that.
Yet aside from everything else, regarding the fob, and working key turning cylinders... get another master key programmed, so no matter what, if you lose one, you have another to program another.
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
No the key wont work on passenger door. It only turns ignition, driver door and trunk lock-out. Its weird. Ive read that master key has to be the one with remotes when adding another key to it. Please confirm. What doesnt make any sense to you?
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
Sbagdon, thanks for your detailed instruction. I will try the penatrating oil trick to all lock cylinders on outside tomorrow. I still dont see why my glove box wouldnt turn if I had a master key though....
Last edited by Gs300maste; 03-02-19 at 08:13 PM.
#15
Also, go find and review the security programming thread, and fob/remote programming thread.
A master key is a master key, with or without remote/fob capability... that's my understanding. If you have a master key, with or without fob/remote... you have a master key. Security is different then access.
It depends upon your tolerance for pain/effort. I'd get a new master/fob key cut from VIN, then start dealing with the locks, one at a time. You know you can get in the car, and start it, either way. Yet ending with a master/fob that works every cylinder... that's a good place to finish...
The following users liked this post:
Gs300maste (03-02-19)