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Yes I started another thread about my issue but I think I was too vague in what I was asking, or I used the wrong terminology. I apologize and will give this just one more shot.
I dropped my keys in a puddle and from what I can tell, the remote has a short in it now. I say this because the battery died very quickly after this. I replaced it with a new one and everything worked, but the new battery died after two days.
I pulled the guts of the remote out and was hoping to be able to open it up and use some IPA to clean the circuit board and eliminate residual moisture, but it seems to be sealed, maybe glued:
Right now I am considering trying to very carefully get this piece apart so I can clean it, but seeing as that's a long shot, I would like to ask if anyone else has been in my position and what they did. I ask because I do see aftermarket remotes on Ebay and Amazon, however they all seem to come in a shell with an uncut key and they're vague as to whether they can be programmed by the user or if I would need to go to a locksmith or dealer. I have not been able to find anyone that sells this piece by itself, with no key, that I can just drop into my existing aftermarket shell that houses my current key – that would be ideal.
If anyone has any tips on either opening up my malfunctioning remote, or sourcing another one that I can program myself, I would be very grateful.
Also, I'm curious to know if I have this right: the remote unit contains both the transmitter to lock & unlock the doors and open the trunk – which obviously requires a battery – and the transponder chip tied to my "engine immobilizer", which does not require a battery, correct? Two separate systems inside this piece – that's how it works?
Also, I'm curious to know if I have this right: the remote unit contains both the transmitter to lock & unlock the doors and open the trunk – which obviously requires a battery – and the transponder chip tied to my "engine immobilizer", which does not require a battery, correct? Two separate systems inside this piece – that's how it works?
Thanks for clarifying. I'm thinking about any possible ramifications to me trying to pry this piece apart to clean it. Damaging the transponder chip would be a very bad ramification! I bought the car used and this is the one and only key.
[edit - I'm trying an "interim" step, lol: I doused this remote with Deoxit D5 electronics cleaner, then worked the buttons a bit, hoping some of it would penetrate into the body. I've installed a new battery and the remote now works, as it did the last time I replaced the battery. The question is, for how long?]
Just to tie a ribbon on this thread: I might be optimistic here, but it looks like my spraying the electronics cleaner on the remote worked. Almost a week later, it's still functioning perfectly and the LED flashes pretty brightly. Below is what I used. Hope this helps anyone in the same situation.
Yes I started another thread about my issue but I think I was too vague in what I was asking, or I used the wrong terminology. I apologize and will give this just one more shot.
I dropped my keys in a puddle and from what I can tell, the remote has a short in it now. I say this because the battery died very quickly after this. I replaced it with a new one and everything worked, but the new battery died after two days.
I pulled the guts of the remote out and was hoping to be able to open it up and use some IPA to clean the circuit board and eliminate residual moisture, but it seems to be sealed, maybe glued:
Right now I am considering trying to very carefully get this piece apart so I can clean it, but seeing as that's a long shot, I would like to ask if anyone else has been in my position and what they did. I ask because I do see aftermarket remotes on Ebay and Amazon, however they all seem to come in a shell with an uncut key and they're vague as to whether they can be programmed by the user or if I would need to go to a locksmith or dealer. I have not been able to find anyone that sells this piece by itself, with no key, that I can just drop into my existing aftermarket shell that houses my current key – that would be ideal.
If anyone has any tips on either opening up my malfunctioning remote, or sourcing another one that I can program myself, I would be very grateful.
Also, I'm curious to know if I have this right: the remote unit contains both the transmitter to lock & unlock the doors and open the trunk – which obviously requires a battery – and the transponder chip tied to my "engine immobilizer", which does not require a battery, correct? Two separate systems inside this piece – that's how it works?
Go to Ebay and buy new keys online at the fraction of the dealer, Get them cut from a professional locksmith, and follow the programming methods. I went fishing one time and only had one key, which the canoe flipped and there went my key at the bottom of the lake and after 3 days I had it towed back to my house. Out of all of luck, instead of fishing, I bought a rope and a brick looking magnet and so luckily reeled in my key, best feeling ever.
Go to Ebay and buy 2 new keys online at the fraction of the dealer (probably 10 bucks a piece), Get them cut from a professional locksmith ( around 60 bucks) , and follow the programming methods (wish I had the link ). I went fishing one time and only had one key, which the canoe flipped and there went my key at the bottom of the lake and after 3 days I had it towed back to my house. Out of all of luck, instead of fishing, I bought a rope and a brick looking magnet and so luckily reeled in my key, best feeling ever. Maybe my best catch to date. Also my locksmith said that I wouldnt be able to program it but you have to google the programming yourself online, Just need the certain year and you can have a guide to program the other two keys, just need a master key. If it wasnt for the magnet fishing (where we tipped) and never found it, I woulda been looking at 1,000 dollars probably from the dealer, just be glad you got that key that works.
Thanks guys. As I said in my last post, the remote works fine – at least, it has since I replaced the battery after spraying it with the electronics cleaner.
As far as having another key, that of course is a very separate issue from a non-functioning remote. I admit I've always been nervous about having only one key for this car. I roll the window down when I get out of the car to retrieve my mail (our short street has all the mailboxes at the top of the road). I tell the valet to leave the window down when I have to park the car at a garage. My mechanic is sick of me mentioning that I only have one key everytime I have to leave the car with him.
Believe it or not, a local Ace Hardware can sell me a blank key with a transponder chip and cut the key for me. Price is $90. (I'm presuming this includes the programming or instructions on how to program). I think I can do a little better on Ebay but I have read stories of programming fails – people taking these Ebay keys to dealers only to be told they could not be programmed.
This June will start my fifth year of owning this vehicle. I got it with about 112K and it has over 230K now. It's due for a timing belt and some other work, and I spent over $4K on repairs last year. Point is, I'm thinking of just playing the odds and sticking with my one key since I don't envision myself having this car much longer. I might regret typing these words, I know. I'll still say that if anyone can point to a good experience getting a working extra key made with minimum fuss and expense, I'm definitely interested in hearing about it. Thanks! PS - Jamison1, that's an incredible story of finding your key – one in a million for sure!
Yes I started another thread about my issue but I think I was too vague in what I was asking, or I used the wrong terminology. I apologize and will give this just one more shot.
I dropped my keys in a puddle and from what I can tell, the remote has a short in it now. I say this because the battery died very quickly after this. I replaced it with a new one and everything worked, but the new battery died after two days.
I pulled the guts of the remote out and was hoping to be able to open it up and use some IPA to clean the circuit board and eliminate residual moisture, but it seems to be sealed, maybe glued:
Right now I am considering trying to very carefully get this piece apart so I can clean it, but seeing as that's a long shot, I would like to ask if anyone else has been in my position and what they did. I ask because I do see aftermarket remotes on Ebay and Amazon, however they all seem to come in a shell with an uncut key and they're vague as to whether they can be programmed by the user or if I would need to go to a locksmith or dealer. I have not been able to find anyone that sells this piece by itself, with no key, that I can just drop into my existing aftermarket shell that houses my current key – that would be ideal.
If anyone has any tips on either opening up my malfunctioning remote, or sourcing another one that I can program myself, I would be very grateful.
Also, I'm curious to know if I have this right: the remote unit contains both the transmitter to lock & unlock the doors and open the trunk – which obviously requires a battery – and the transponder chip tied to my "engine immobilizer", which does not require a battery, correct? Two separate systems inside this piece – that's how it works?
Use air spray to clean. To remove moisture you can use hair dryer gently or bury it in a grain bag.
Maybe you didn't read the rest of the thread? Or are you just suggesting different methods to try for others that might find themselves in my situation? Thanks for taking the time to help though. A hair dryer was the first thing I tried – it didn't work, as the first new battery I put in after drying it out went dead within two days. All is well now.
The "key" in talking dealers into programming an old key is telling them you bought the valet key from Sewell online a few years ago and just never got around to getting it done locally. Rude Lexus dealers tend to back off if they believe the key you have is new-old stock from their system. If they think or are told its from eBay they will fight tooth and nail to not program it.
Unless you're Louis Rossmann, or you get really lucky, just buy you're way out of this problem. Get two additional master keys, use the old fob to program the new two keys, and keep the original as a spare, just-in-case.
We have the key that came with our car, that has a broken lock button, replaced it with a new/genuine Lexus key.. had it cut, and we programmed the security and remote functions. Unlock/trunk still worked, just not the lock, on the old one. We keep it around in case someone loses the "fresh" key, to program another master key.
And to repeat, it sounds that the proper description is that the remote functionality is an active feature (requiring battery), while security is a passive feature (rfid-type functionality?). Security worked just fine, when our lock button failed... aggravating, yet still functioning.
I'm a Louis Rossmann fan myself, so I got a chuckle out of your post!
Yes I know I should have an extra key. I've always known it. My original reason for posting here (and the other post you replied to) was only about my remote not functioning after I dropped my keys in a puddle. That issue is fixed, as I detailed – just a dousing with de-oxit. I did see some aftermarket remotes on Ebay, including one that was by itself – i.e. just the remote unit, no uncut key. It looked like the shape of the unit was different than mine and the buttons might not have lined up with the holes on the housing I had for my key. And on practically every listing – and those on Amazon, too – were comments by folks saying the key was a waste of money; programming failed. Whose fault it was, of course, couldn't be known, and there were also some stories of success. I like better odds when I'm potentially spending around $100. But I agree with everyone here that I should have a second key! Hell, anyone with these chipped keys and "engine immobilizers" are flirting with disaster with only one key. I guess I've been lucky in the almost five years I've owned this car – then again I'm obsessive about always making sure the key is with me when I'm out of the house!
I'd just dump the $130 for a genuine new Lexus uncut key w/fob. Programming the ignition is easy enough to do yourself, as is the remote functionality... though check out the remote-programming thread, think we've narrowed down how to deal with the lock button having to be moved manually, for the remote programming sequence.
I'd just dump the $130 for a genuine new Lexus uncut key w/fob. Programming the ignition is easy enough to do yourself, as is the remote functionality... though check out the remote-programming thread, think we've narrowed down how to deal with the lock button having to be moved manually, for the remote programming sequence.
I thought a key + FOB was more expensive than that. I'd probably settle for an extra key by itself, forget the fob. Of course, you have to add the cost for having the key cut to that $130. The $90 price I got from Ace Hardware actually looks pretty good now; they'd presumably make it right if the key didn't work. Buying on Ebay or Amazon, then finding a locksmith or going to a dealer for cutting seems riskier.
02-01-19, 06:19 PM
Trying to replace or repair a keyless remote
