Battery or Alternator?!
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Battery or Alternator Update: So I was able to use the wiring diagram to find the source of the little white wire that was disconnected from the alternator pigtail. The size of the wire is a 20-gauge, I went to my local part store they didn't carry the 20-gauge so I purchased the 18-gauge! I was able to by pass the old wire by splicing into the wire where it connect to the Circuit connector, I used my current tester to ensure there was a current. Current is flowing through the wire, I connected my new 18-gauge wire to the pigtail connector and checked to make sure current made it through the pigtail as well, all three connectors showed they have current. However now that I know that the alternator is receiving power, when I returned to my local part store to have it tested, its still saying that the alternator is producing 0 voltage or it reads Voltage regulator FAILED. Keep in mind that if I remove the alternator and test it by itself test results show no issues, Does any one know what could cause this?!
Driver
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 194
Likes: 9
From: Auckland, NZ
Did you test the voltage at all 3 pins while it was plugged in and engine running? you will have to back probe it.
And also have you tested the main charging wire (BLK/BLU "B" terminal) for an open circuit to see if the alternators output is actually going to the battery?
Like I said before, there shouldn't be 0V on that wire because the battery is in parallel to the alternator through that 120A fuse, so what ever you see on the battery terminals, that's what you should see on the alternator B terminal (well close to it anyway because of a little voltage drop). - Even if the alternator isn't charging, you should still see battery voltage on the B terminal of the alternator.
Also have you checked all the grounds for good connections?
And also have you tested the main charging wire (BLK/BLU "B" terminal) for an open circuit to see if the alternators output is actually going to the battery?
Like I said before, there shouldn't be 0V on that wire because the battery is in parallel to the alternator through that 120A fuse, so what ever you see on the battery terminals, that's what you should see on the alternator B terminal (well close to it anyway because of a little voltage drop). - Even if the alternator isn't charging, you should still see battery voltage on the B terminal of the alternator.
Also have you checked all the grounds for good connections?
10th Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
From: CA / NV
Battery or Alternator Update: So I was able to use the wiring diagram to find the source of the little white wire that was disconnected from the alternator pigtail. The size of the wire is a 20-gauge, I went to my local part store they didn't carry the 20-gauge so I purchased the 18-gauge! I was able to by pass the old wire by splicing into the wire where it connect to the Circuit connector, I used my current tester to ensure there was a current. Current is flowing through the wire, I connected my new 18-gauge wire to the pigtail connector and checked to make sure current made it through the pigtail as well, all three connectors showed they have current. However now that I know that the alternator is receiving power, when I returned to my local part store to have it tested, its still saying that the alternator is producing 0 voltage or it reads Voltage regulator FAILED. Keep in mind that if I remove the alternator and test it by itself test results show no issues, Does any one know what could cause this?!
10th Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
From: CA / NV
Also note that coming from your alternator the B+ wire goes through the 120 amp fuse as a safety precaution. If that fuse is good then your battery should charge. If you are not sure easy test is run a 4 gauge wire directly from the B+ terminal to the battery and see if it is charging the battery.
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