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I own a 2000 GS 300 Platinum edition, I recently had the radiator replaced since doing so I have been experiencing electrical issues. I have since replaced both the Battery and Alternator, the car will crank and run for about 30mins and then will shut off! When I test the battery it says needs a charge.....any ideas?!
Chances are if the alternator is remanufactured. It could be defective. I would get both the alternator, and battery load tested at a local auto parts store.
Yep, get you a voltmeter and put the leads on the battery post while the car is off. You should get 12v. Then start the car, if you are around 13.5v and not dropping then you more than likely have a good alt. If its starts to drop meaning you start out at 12v and as soon as you start the car it dips to 11.9, 11.8, 11.7 etc, then you have bad alt, particularly the voltage regulator in the alternator. Bad thing is get ready to go through at least 1-2 units because they don't always work from the parts store, due to the fact that they are re-man units.
Thanks guys for your help! I finally decided to stop trusting Mechanics and looked at my vehicle myself. I was able to find that the alternator connectors were no longer connected. I have ordered another pigtail ans should be able to splice the wires to secure the connection. I attached some pics of the old connector.
This was my issue guys no connection The connector was also all corroded
Thanks guys for your help! I finally decided to stop trusting Mechanics and looked at my vehicle myself. I was able to find that the alternator connectors were no longer connected. I have ordered another pigtail ans should be able to splice the wires to secure the connection. I attached some pics of the old connector.
This was my issue guys no connection The connector was also all corroded
This is why I do my own stunts. Taking it to a mechanic for me is a last resort.
Battery or Alternator Update: So I received the new alternator pigtail connector, spliced the wires and reconnected everything. Car Cranked and drove to local part store to have the alternator tested. Still 0 Voltage to the alternator, we also checked the fuses they all seem to be okay! I am growing anxious and frustrated does any one have any suggestions to this issue?!
Battery or Alternator Update: So I received the new alternator pigtail connector, spliced the wires and reconnected everything. Car Cranked and drove to local part store to have the alternator tested. Still 0 Voltage to the alternator, we also checked the fuses they all seem to be okay! I am growing anxious and frustrated does any one have any suggestions to this issue?!
Zero voltage at the battery?
Could be a bad battery. Even with a dead battery the alternator would still try to charge.
Check for a break in the line also. PWR wire going to the alternator.
Have a look at this wiring diagram and check all wires that connect to and from the alternator. There shouldnt be 0V on the main current wire ("B" terminal on alternator, on the diagram) going to the battery. If there is then I would say theres an open circuit between that "B" connection and the battery or a bad ground on alternator.
When doing the voltage check, make sure the black probe is on the battery negative and put the red probe on the alternator "B" wire.
Also double check if the 120A fuse is still all good.
So I tested the wires that run into the alternator pigtail! There are a total of 3, two out of the three wires are still carrying current! It’s the white and blue one that no longer carries the current!!! I noticed that the wires run together under some plastic tubing, does any one know if that one wire can be replaced or would I have to replace the entire wiring harness?!
So I tested the wires that run into the alternator pigtail! There are a total of 3, two out of the three wires are still carrying current! It’s the white and blue one that no longer carries the current!!! I noticed that the wires run together under some plastic tubing, does any one know if that one wire can be replaced or would I have to replace the entire wiring harness?!
If you check the posted wiring PDF diagram. You have the ALT 120A fuse, and ALT-S 5A fuse. It goes to the blue/white wire. Check if the fuse is still good. It basically comes from the ignition switch. The PDF shows you where to trace the Blue/white wire to the ignition.
So basically ignition Blu/Wht wire goes to AM1 40A fuse then to the ALT fuse 120A, or the ALT-S FA fuses. Check out those fuses first.
This kind of thing happens to me all the time!
I took my car into NTB to get the wheels aligned.
When I went to start my car to go home, all the engine lights went on!
Same thing, someone went under the hood to check my air filter (which I did not agree to).
They left the air sensor unplugged and something else was loose.
I just reconnected the wires and was able to go home.
I cringe when they ask to check my cabin air filter !! (No, don't even go there).
Or the tricks required to clear the MAINTENANCE message (why is that so complicated ???)
Also, clean your battery at least twice a year. They get damp and dusty, then start draining battery (salt bridge).
But, there is a lesson here - inexperienced car mechanics can cause problems, too!
02-27-18, 08:25 AM
Battery or Alternator?!
...careful you might just go far in life.
