Door open warning / new key
02-05-18, 01:27 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Door open warning / new key
Hi all
I've just got myself a 1998 GS300. I bought a spare key and have been able to program it so it starts the engine, but haven't been able to get the car into reprogramming mode for the remote fob. I think this is beacause the car isn't recognising when the doors are open. The door open warning light on the dash comes on when the boot is opened, but not when any door is opened, which means the dome and puddle lights dont come on either. Ive seen other posts where the door open warning hasn't worked for one door, but mine isn't working for any door. Can anyone point me in the right direction!?
thanks
I've just got myself a 1998 GS300. I bought a spare key and have been able to program it so it starts the engine, but haven't been able to get the car into reprogramming mode for the remote fob. I think this is beacause the car isn't recognising when the doors are open. The door open warning light on the dash comes on when the boot is opened, but not when any door is opened, which means the dome and puddle lights dont come on either. Ive seen other posts where the door open warning hasn't worked for one door, but mine isn't working for any door. Can anyone point me in the right direction!?
thanks
02-21-18, 11:29 AM
#2
That's a tricky on.. I have the same problem, just different. Both my rear doors won't tell the car-body they are open, so no interior lights, door lights, and the car will auto-arm with just the rear doors open.
Worse is that the driver's door interior latch mechanism is reporting back that the door is always closed. The lights will light from the door pin sensor, yet the ECU thinks the door is closed, even when it's open, as it must be using the latch, and not the jamb sensor. What that means is, even if I want to pay Toyota (they are someplace I can go during lunch, the Lexus dealership is an hour away during lunch), their computer says the door isn't open, and having the door transition from closed to open is part of the factory ecu steps to set a new key.
Not sure if any of that helps. To answer your question, if none of the doors trigger the bcm (body control module), then it sounds to be a single point of failure... it would be freaky if all the door sensor-pins and latch-sensors failed at the same time.
Worse is that the driver's door interior latch mechanism is reporting back that the door is always closed. The lights will light from the door pin sensor, yet the ECU thinks the door is closed, even when it's open, as it must be using the latch, and not the jamb sensor. What that means is, even if I want to pay Toyota (they are someplace I can go during lunch, the Lexus dealership is an hour away during lunch), their computer says the door isn't open, and having the door transition from closed to open is part of the factory ecu steps to set a new key.
Not sure if any of that helps. To answer your question, if none of the doors trigger the bcm (body control module), then it sounds to be a single point of failure... it would be freaky if all the door sensor-pins and latch-sensors failed at the same time.
02-21-18, 11:19 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I've noticed that the drivers door switch work very occassionally, seems random. If its working sometimes, could it still be the bcm or is the switch sticking?
03-14-18, 09:24 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Almost fixed
Bit of an update...
The door open warning and interior lights have worked intermittently from the drivers door, and I've managed to reprogramme they key :-D
The door open and interior lights still dont work most of the time from the drivers door, and have never worked from the other doors. While I can live with this, there is a risk of the car locking itself, so I'd like to get it sorted. Is my problem most likely to be with the door switches or a body control module?
Cheers
The door open warning and interior lights have worked intermittently from the drivers door, and I've managed to reprogramme they key :-D
The door open and interior lights still dont work most of the time from the drivers door, and have never worked from the other doors. While I can live with this, there is a risk of the car locking itself, so I'd like to get it sorted. Is my problem most likely to be with the door switches or a body control module?
Cheers
03-14-18, 05:42 PM
#5
Heres a wiring diagram to help you out. You can start doing some voltage checks.
The other option is using a scantool. Most scantools these days have the option of actuator test mode, where you can send a signal from the scantool to operate things such as door locks or interior lights.
The actuator test mode is for checking, communication between body ECU's as well as the actuators themselves with corresponding wires.
To check if its a input problem (door switches), go to the live data or current section and operate the switch normally and check whether the input gets sent to the ECU and displays on the scantool.
I would use a scantool first to see where the problem(s) lies and then do further tests with multimeter or scope.
The other option is using a scantool. Most scantools these days have the option of actuator test mode, where you can send a signal from the scantool to operate things such as door locks or interior lights.
The actuator test mode is for checking, communication between body ECU's as well as the actuators themselves with corresponding wires.
To check if its a input problem (door switches), go to the live data or current section and operate the switch normally and check whether the input gets sent to the ECU and displays on the scantool.
I would use a scantool first to see where the problem(s) lies and then do further tests with multimeter or scope.
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