I've never been a fan of Nitrous in any form maybe for drag cars to help with launching but street cars never.

 

Ok I can't help but think about this. let's say he went the turbo route. Obviously a single since two would add to the price. picture this. one turbo from ebay from a reputable seller that sells quality parts. or just drop 800 on a turbonetics journal bearing turbo. it would be an .81AR aspect ratio on the hotside. ball park 500 if he went for in between cheap and new. than the purchase of the hot side exhaust piping. he could run his stock driver side manifold and buy two mandrel bend 90's and one foot of 2 1/4 stainless that will connect the drivers side to the passenger side. than purchase two feet of 409 thick walled stainless 2 1/2 inch diameter for the custom turbo manifold for the drivers side. add one foot of 1 1/4 primary tubing to connect the 2 1/2 pipe to the four primary pipes. than throw in some universal 2 1/2 mandrel bends to go from the front of the turbo manifold up to the location where the turbo will fit on the front passenger side just behind the passenger headlight. see my "single turbo" post to see what I mean. add a T4 flange and bolt the turbo to it. than purchase some 3 inch diameter down pipe that has 2 90 degree bends and just header wrap it to keep cost down. might have to play with the lower radiator hose. run the down pipe under the passenger side back to the halfway point of your exhaust than tie it in. there! hot side done. now go to ebay and buy there universal intercooler kit with a 32 inch long intercooler and all piping and hose couplings for about 150 bucks. put that **** together. run the cool side from the turbo outlet down thru the metal that would get cut out, bust some nineties to the intercooler, than come out drivers side bust some more nineties, then come up between the radiator fans and the front crank pulley. youll have to use a THREE INCH OUTER DIAMETER intercooler pipe and mass air flow flange adapter just before the intercooler pipe goes to the throttle body. the three inch outer diameter pipe will have a 2.8 inner diameter hole where the maf sensor will get its readings. that will cause the car to run richer in open loop and put you at a totally safe 11.1 afr under boost or wide open throttle. and as long as you stay under six psi. it won't be a problem therefore he wont need additional fuel controllers or safc or neo devices. the fuel trims will show negative numbers but not enough to set a light. than buy a decent blow off valve and put it in between the outlet of the intercooler and before the maf sensor which will be right next to the middle of the radiator fans for allowing air straightening for accurate readings. drill a hold just before the hot side meets the turbo and weld on your wastegate than run 2 inch diameter exhaust ninety across the turbo and to the down pipe coming from the hot side outlet of the turbo. splurge and buy two aem analog gauges. one for air fuel ratio and one for boost pressure. those run a little over three hundred for both. install a five psi spring in the wastegate. go to summit racing and buy an oil feed line for the turbo. i think it needs to be 48 inches long to go from the oil pressure sender port up to the turbo. than run the oil return line from the bottom of the turbo down to the passenger side of the upper oil pan. there is a oil level sender that you can pull out and drill it out and use an a.n. fitting to insert the oil drain hose into the hole for the oil level sender. install a jumper wire at the oil level sender connector so the light doesn't turn on on the dash. lets recap. hot side piping materials, 300 maybe. cold side intercooler kit with maf flange adapter and blow off valve adapter 250. oil feed and return lines 100. wastegate 50mm and blow off valve 200. two gauges for monitoring 300. mushroom air filter for turbo inlet 25. than add whatever it cost for someone to fabricate the turbo manifold and weld it. lol. Am I missing anything?

 

just paragraphs... that thing made my brain hurt

 

^This! Hahaha

That is a fairly comprehensive list, it's just difficult to read.

It is interesting though, that decreasing the I.D. of the intake tubing at the MAF will correct the fuel trims for boost... It actually seems pretty simple when you think about it.

 

FWIW, a 2JZ-GTE swap would be a way more economical way to make power in an S160 than boosting a 1UZ. Still not "cheap" though.