GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Anyone Know this? AC compressor bypass?

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Old 06-06-13, 02:50 PM
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paige
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Default Anyone Know this? AC compressor bypass?

2001 GS 430

Having AC trouble. Brought it into a shop, Compressor clutch still engaged. They diagnosed complete AC replacement for 2k... I said no way.... So of course they evacuated the system. Now clutch will not engage because of low pressure,

Low reads about 9psi... Anybody know how to bypass the signal either from the High side switch or the Relay Box. Any help on this would be great so I can get some dye in to find the leak.

Never had an issue with the AC, 12 years... Awesome.. I just replaced the lower unit on the house after 10.

This car has been fantastic... BTW 160,000 miles and still hauling kids and ARSSS!

Thanks Guys
Old 06-07-13, 07:37 AM
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paige
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Default Can someone confirm this?

I did some hunting and I found this posted. Can someone confirm this works, it makes sense just want to make sure I don't fry her:

10-06-09, 08:28 PM #15

Amskeptic
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"If it is not turning, be brave. Remove the big plastic cover over the fuses and relays. There is a round A/C relay closest to the left fender and it is identified on the diagram inside the cover. Remove it. You will see (if it is factory) two copper spades and two silver spades. You want to bridge the copper spade terminals inside the fuse box with a little piece of wire just to check for the sound of the compressor engaging. You might get a little spark action, no big deal- you at least know you have voltage coming through the load side of the relay, just cram the wire in the terminal slots briefly. This will normally make the idle go up as well."

"If this little hot-wire makes the compressor engage, you likely have a low charge of refrigerant. In this case, the relay's control circuit is being told not to engage the relay due to insufficient pressure stopping the electrical circuit to the relay control coil."

Thanks guys
Old 06-12-13, 04:42 AM
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RPrescott
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Depending on what's causing your leak, you may have to pressurize your system to find it anyways. Just running your compressor around in a low pressure condition may circulate the dye, but you won't be stressing any of the connections. A cracked hose may hold a few psi, but as the rubber stretches at higher pressure, your leak will get worse. You don't want to pressurize it with anything except refrigerant because of contamination issues.

If you have a good AC repair shop locally, I would take it there. They'll have all the tools for recovery/recharge, and can probably find your leak for less than $50. If it's something simple like a valve core (common leak source), they may even be able to repair the system and recharge it for that. You can barely buy the cans of R134a for a full charge for that - plus the aggravation - it's worth it to take it to the pros for leak testing.
Old 08-08-15, 07:02 PM
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mglawrence
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Originally Posted by paige
I did some hunting and I found this posted. Can someone confirm this works, it makes sense just want to make sure I don't fry her:

10-06-09, 08:28 PM #15

Amskeptic
Driver
Garage is empty, add now
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"If it is not turning, be brave. Remove the big plastic cover over the fuses and relays. There is a round A/C relay closest to the left fender and it is identified on the diagram inside the cover. Remove it. You will see (if it is factory) two copper spades and two silver spades. You want to bridge the copper spade terminals inside the fuse box with a little piece of wire just to check for the sound of the compressor engaging. You might get a little spark action, no big deal- you at least know you have voltage coming through the load side of the relay, just cram the wire in the terminal slots briefly. This will normally make the idle go up as well."

"If this little hot-wire makes the compressor engage, you likely have a low charge of refrigerant. In this case, the relay's control circuit is being told not to engage the relay due to insufficient pressure stopping the electrical circuit to the relay control coil."

Thanks guys
Hey I'm having the problem with my ac light flashing. U mentioned a locked rotor sensor in your post. Where can I find this at? I've tried everything. If I keep pressing on the ac button the ac compressor will stay running. Or if the engines rpms exceed 2000 then the ac light will remain on and the compressor will stay running. I have new everything, compressor, expansion valve, condenser, evaporator, dryer, seals. Can u give me more info about the locked rotor sensor? I believe this is what keeps tripping the ac light. I already bypassed the low and high pressure sensor and compressor kicks on when tripped but then shuts off after a few seconds and the ac light starts flashing again so it's not the pressure switch. Please help.
Old 08-18-15, 02:35 AM
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angus
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Originally Posted by paige
2001 GS 430

Having AC trouble. Brought it into a shop, Compressor clutch still engaged. They diagnosed complete AC replacement for 2k... I said no way.... So of course they evacuated the system. Now clutch will not engage because of low pressure,

Low reads about 9psi... Anybody know how to bypass the signal either from the High side switch or the Relay Box. Any help on this would be great so I can get some dye in to find the leak.

Never had an issue with the AC, 12 years... Awesome.. I just replaced the lower unit on the house after 10.

This car has been fantastic... BTW 160,000 miles and still hauling kids and ARSSS!

Thanks Guys
Buy a used or reman compressor and change it yourself. Then go to walmart and buy a recharge kit. Done.
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