MJM Auto Innovations Door Speaker Adapter Brackets - Review
#16
Nice one OP You did EXACTLY what I am doing in mine. Purchased these adapters, got the coax's in the back, saving up for the comp's in the front right now. Driven by JL XD600/6 & Kenwood 8104D for sub. The coax's are breaking in now and I am constantly reducing the input to them because they keep creeping up and overpowering my still stock speakers up front
I am going with the Polk setup because I had Infinity Kappa's once before, and guys on the DIYMA forum suggested Polk when I said I found the Kappas too bright for my liking. So if you find these bright.. don't bother with Kappas or Focals
I think you'll be fine. I compared the height of the speaker beside the stock speaker mount before I installed it, and the stock speaker sticks out even further than the Polk does with the baffle, a good 1/8-1/4" if I recall.
You actually don't have to worry about it at all. Rolled down, the window doesn't even reach where the speaker is mounted.
I am going with the Polk setup because I had Infinity Kappa's once before, and guys on the DIYMA forum suggested Polk when I said I found the Kappas too bright for my liking. So if you find these bright.. don't bother with Kappas or Focals
I think you'll be fine. I compared the height of the speaker beside the stock speaker mount before I installed it, and the stock speaker sticks out even further than the Polk does with the baffle, a good 1/8-1/4" if I recall.
You actually don't have to worry about it at all. Rolled down, the window doesn't even reach where the speaker is mounted.
#17
Racer
iTrader: (8)
Hey, I just saw your thread about these adapters. I'm going to order from his website due to him not accepting payment from ebay anymore. I just noticed that he will refund you 50% for the pictures. Did you take advantage of that yet? If so, how long did it take to get your refund.
Another quick question but my main question, I plan on putting some new Kappa Reference 6.5 2ohms shallow mount in the front and my old Alpine 6.5 4 ohms in the rear. Both are non components, just 2-way speakers, both will match factory ohms ratings, powered off my oem HU for now...my question is, are these speakers completely plug and play (remove the +/- pins from the factory speaker and slide on new speaker pins or does there have to be some splicing done? I don't know if there is some type of connector we might have to splice into to power the speakers up.
I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.
BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.
Another quick question but my main question, I plan on putting some new Kappa Reference 6.5 2ohms shallow mount in the front and my old Alpine 6.5 4 ohms in the rear. Both are non components, just 2-way speakers, both will match factory ohms ratings, powered off my oem HU for now...my question is, are these speakers completely plug and play (remove the +/- pins from the factory speaker and slide on new speaker pins or does there have to be some splicing done? I don't know if there is some type of connector we might have to splice into to power the speakers up.
I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.
BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.
#18
Pole Position
iTrader: (6)
Another quick question but my main question, I plan on putting some new Kappa Reference 6.5 2ohms shallow mount in the front and my old Alpine 6.5 4 ohms in the rear. Both are non components, just 2-way speakers, both will match factory ohms ratings, powered off my oem HU for now...my question is, are these speakers completely plug and play (remove the +/- pins from the factory speaker and slide on new speaker pins or does there have to be some splicing done? I don't know if there is some type of connector we might have to splice into to power the speakers up.
I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.
BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.
I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.
BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.
It's a very simply job, compared to some of the stuff the guys here tackle. Then again, I've always been more apt in wiring than mechanics. It took me about an hour per side, and I took the time to deaden my door as well. Just read the DIY on door removal (found in lock actuator DIY) and have the radio wiring diagram for your car, and you're golden!
If I had to make these adapters, it would have been a full day project for me, and my Saturday is more important to me than $50 in machined plastic
np about the rims, just wanted to make sure you weren't left out in the cold
#19
Hey, I just saw your thread about these adapters. I'm going to order from his website due to him not accepting payment from ebay anymore. I just noticed that he will refund you 50% for the pictures. Did you take advantage of that yet? If so, how long did it take to get your refund.
Another quick question but my main question, I plan on putting some new Kappa Reference 6.5 2ohms shallow mount in the front and my old Alpine 6.5 4 ohms in the rear. Both are non components, just 2-way speakers, both will match factory ohms ratings, powered off my oem HU for now...my question is, are these speakers completely plug and play (remove the +/- pins from the factory speaker and slide on new speaker pins or does there have to be some splicing done? I don't know if there is some type of connector we might have to splice into to power the speakers up.
I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.
BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.
Another quick question but my main question, I plan on putting some new Kappa Reference 6.5 2ohms shallow mount in the front and my old Alpine 6.5 4 ohms in the rear. Both are non components, just 2-way speakers, both will match factory ohms ratings, powered off my oem HU for now...my question is, are these speakers completely plug and play (remove the +/- pins from the factory speaker and slide on new speaker pins or does there have to be some splicing done? I don't know if there is some type of connector we might have to splice into to power the speakers up.
I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.
BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.
No orginial wiring was used for anything on the stereo, everything was ran new.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 04-25-12 at 02:51 PM.
#20
Lead Lap
iTrader: (40)
I have the same ones from the same guy. Bought them ages ago and finally had them installed last week.
I used dynamat on the back side of the plastic so it didn't rattle against the car door and sealed better. Not sure if its necessary, but i did it anyway.
here are my pictures....Install by Tommy @ MusicBox
I used dynamat on the back side of the plastic so it didn't rattle against the car door and sealed better. Not sure if its necessary, but i did it anyway.
here are my pictures....Install by Tommy @ MusicBox
#22
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
there is also a website http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK002. however, that is closed at the moment. cant add items to cart.
was looking to upgrade to larger speakers, in the front for sure at least. Does anyone know if I got this adapter and went with a speaker that did not have a seperate detached tweeter, would the sound quality suffer? Would the level and clarity of the high's be degraded due to not having the tweeter up in the top of the door sill by ear level? Was just thinking about the difficulty of fitting an aftermarket tweeter up there.
was looking to upgrade to larger speakers, in the front for sure at least. Does anyone know if I got this adapter and went with a speaker that did not have a seperate detached tweeter, would the sound quality suffer? Would the level and clarity of the high's be degraded due to not having the tweeter up in the top of the door sill by ear level? Was just thinking about the difficulty of fitting an aftermarket tweeter up there.
#23
Pole Position
iTrader: (6)
there is also a website http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK002. however, that is closed at the moment. cant add items to cart.
was looking to upgrade to larger speakers, in the front for sure at least. Does anyone know if I got this adapter and went with a speaker that did not have a seperate detached tweeter, would the sound quality suffer? Would the level and clarity of the high's be degraded due to not having the tweeter up in the top of the door sill by ear level? Was just thinking about the difficulty of fitting an aftermarket tweeter up there.
was looking to upgrade to larger speakers, in the front for sure at least. Does anyone know if I got this adapter and went with a speaker that did not have a seperate detached tweeter, would the sound quality suffer? Would the level and clarity of the high's be degraded due to not having the tweeter up in the top of the door sill by ear level? Was just thinking about the difficulty of fitting an aftermarket tweeter up there.
You are definitely going to lose SQ by keeping the tweeter down at your feet. What is difficult about fitting the tweeter in the OEM location? I haven't done it myself yet but my comps are on their way.
#24
Once you remove the mesh cover, you can see that the OEM tweeters are are attached to a little frame the holds it in position. Unscrew and remove the stock tweeters and replace with aftermarket speakers using the orginal frame. Luckily for me, my tweeters had magnets on the back so they just stick there. I could even run the wires through the stock position.
#25
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
That is the same site. I just clicked it and I can add to cart no problem.
You are definitely going to lose SQ by keeping the tweeter down at your feet. What is difficult about fitting the tweeter in the OEM location? I haven't done it myself yet but my comps are on their way.
You are definitely going to lose SQ by keeping the tweeter down at your feet. What is difficult about fitting the tweeter in the OEM location? I haven't done it myself yet but my comps are on their way.
On another note, i went to two different stereo shops looking for advice on aftermarket door speakers and sub.amp upgrades. Both shops told me they could fit whatever size speaker in my the stock speaker housings i wanted. ?? I really dont see how this is possible. Are they smoking crack?
#27
If ones car sits outside 24/7 and gets a lot of varying weather then u may want to consider alternate locations for the crossover
#28
Racer
iTrader: (8)
Received my brackets last week. Shipping was very fast. I'm not doing component, just using coaxial 2-way Infinity Reference speakers (6.5"). I will have to find a way to see if I can still use my factor tweeter along with the tweeter in the speaker. If not, I might be ok due to all of the reviews I've read calling these speakers a "little bright"... I'm going with 2-ohm speakers in the front and 4 ohm in the back to match factory specs. This might not be needed, but I will use silicone beading on the back of the brackets to help seal.
#30
Pole Position
iTrader: (6)
On another note, i went to two different stereo shops looking for advice on aftermarket door speakers and sub.amp upgrades. Both shops told me they could fit whatever size speaker in my the stock speaker housings i wanted. ?? I really dont see how this is possible. Are they smoking crack?
For me, I'm doing the same as OP with the marine certified polks. Coincidentally, my front MM6501 comps arrived today Can't wait to put them in.
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tpham86
Lexus Audio, Video, Security & Electronics
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03-09-10 12:24 AM