drl led module question?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: CA
Alright. First things first. The DRLS are your high beam bulbs at 50% power. So that's your 9006s.
The 192/194/168/2825 conflict are the NRLs. Or city lights as some call them. They are in that middle globe too, at the bottom. Check out Polarg M4s and M6s for those. Both are good choice.
The 192/194/168/2825 conflict are the NRLs. Or city lights as some call them. They are in that middle globe too, at the bottom. Check out Polarg M4s and M6s for those. Both are good choice.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...omparison.html
To me, the illuminated bulb is the DRL because they come on during the day.
The furthest outside bulb, in the furthest outside cluster, comes on as low beams and then the middle bulb, above the lit bulb shown, comes on as the high beams. Why is there any confusion? Why wouldn’t I go with way less expensive LEDs in this case, rather than the Polargs?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: CA
Whatever LEDs you buy the most important part is that you make sure the light source comes from the same location as a halogen bulb because thats what the reflector was designed for. Higher end LEDs have 2-4 LEDs (like the Morimoto 2stroke 2.0) with 1-2 on each side of a wafer. Any bulb covered covered with tiny LEDs is going to have terrible light output and you'll be sorely disappointed.
Alright. First things first. The DRLS are your high beam bulbs at 50% power. So that's your 9006s.
The 192/194/168/2825 conflict are the NRLs. Or city lights as some call them. They are in that middle globe too, at the bottom. Check out Polarg M4s and M6s for those. Both are good choice.
The 192/194/168/2825 conflict are the NRLs. Or city lights as some call them. They are in that middle globe too, at the bottom. Check out Polarg M4s and M6s for those. Both are good choice.
Also, being that I'm a second-wave owner when LEDs were already taking over the T10 wedge base bulb market, I've never heard of Polarg bulbs until now. I guess if you still want the simplicity of incandescent bulbs and not going through countless returns on Amazon trying to find the perfect matching 194 LED, sure.
Thank you for your reply! Found this thread/post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...omparison.html
To me, the illuminated bulb is the DRL because they come on during the day.
The furthest outside bulb, in the furthest outside cluster, comes on as low beams and then the middle bulb, above the lit bulb shown, comes on as the high beams. Why is there any confusion? Why wouldn’t I go with way less expensive LEDs in this case, rather than the Polargs?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...omparison.html
To me, the illuminated bulb is the DRL because they come on during the day.
The furthest outside bulb, in the furthest outside cluster, comes on as low beams and then the middle bulb, above the lit bulb shown, comes on as the high beams. Why is there any confusion? Why wouldn’t I go with way less expensive LEDs in this case, rather than the Polargs?
If you want to upgrade your 9005 high beams, then follow Muffinizer's advice. If you want to upgrade your 194 bulbs, the options are endless. If you're picky about the brightness, projection, and matching the color temperature with your other lights, then you'll probably be playing LED roulette on Amazon.
Last edited by 8M6; Feb 24, 2020 at 09:05 AM.
The high beams at 50% voltage are the DRLs. The tiny 168 bulbs in the high beam housing only come on with the headlights. Your DRLs will stop working if you swap the high beams to LED no matter what bulb you use. To have them come back on at a lower voltage you need to add a resistor. The R1 kit below has everything thats needed but note the resistor will get very hot when in use so mount it accordingly.
https://store.ijdmtoy.com/pages/lexu...allation-guide
https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/l...29241153552487
https://store.ijdmtoy.com/pages/lexu...allation-guide
https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/l...29241153552487
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: CA
I WAS WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. Mistook the peanut bulb for the high beam at 50%. Sorry for the confusion! :-{
Last edited by iselkars2; Feb 24, 2020 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Confused low for high beam light
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: CA
Okay, I’ve calmed down now and done some research. Apparently, many locations require a load or resistance interface of some sort to offset issues with hyper-flash an/or voltage/wattage differences. With that being said, I’d like some advice for the 7440 ambers up front and the variety of 7440/7443 red and white rear bulbs.
- 7440 amber up front. Does it require an interface as described above? Will a 7440/7443 amber work as well as a dedicated 7440? I understand that a 7443 will work in a 7440 location, but not vice versa, right?
- Reverse clear 7440s are pretty self-explanatory. Do they need an interface since they don’t flash?
- The four red 7443s. Will they need the interfaces since they have dual voltage/wattage running through them?
- Rear 7440 ambers. Do they need the interfaces?
- Will a CANBUS led bulb eliminate the need for the above mentioned interface?
To sum up, there is a need for a total of 12 7440/7443 style bulbs.....4 7440 ambers up front and rear; 2 7440 clears for reverse; 4 red 7443s and 2 red 7440s in rear, correct?
Geez, there are literally hundreds of choices Amazon, etc. My OCD is going nuts. Any definitive, cost-effective choices as I’m not gonna spend $175 for 2 7443s from veld. 🤣🤣🤣
Geez, there are literally hundreds of choices Amazon, etc. My OCD is going nuts. Any definitive, cost-effective choices as I’m not gonna spend $175 for 2 7443s from veld. 🤣🤣🤣
Last edited by iselkars2; Feb 29, 2020 at 04:55 PM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: AZ
Whatever LEDs you buy the most important part is that you make sure the light source comes from the same location as a halogen bulb because thats what the reflector was designed for. Higher end LEDs have 2-4 LEDs (like the Morimoto 2stroke 2.0) with 1-2 on each side of a wafer. Any bulb covered covered with tiny LEDs is going to have terrible light output and you'll be sorely disappointed.
Unfortunately, headlamps and bulbs are 3D objects:
You won't find any LED bulb that actually matches a filament tit-for-tat. Yes, matching the dimensions are important. But people always forget the pesky little fact that filaments and bulbs are 3D objects, and good luck matching a filament on that third, most important dimension.
The net effect is crappy illumination when you get something that doesn't match from a 3D perspective:
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: Md
Problem is actually not solved. thought it was that day. Changed out that resistor twice, and the green module i had pictured above. Lights still do not shut off.
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