01 gs430 motor mount replacement attempt
09-29-10, 07:40 AM
#31
It's still a pain, but doable if you are mechanically inclined.
09-29-10, 02:17 PM
#32
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You have to drop the crossmember to get access to those nuts on top of the mounts. Once you drop the crossmember a few inches, you'll see the nuts. You can see the nut in the center of the picture below.
Of course getting to them is a whole separate issue. You need either a box end wrench with some funky bends in it, or make your own, or do what I did - sacrificed a box end wrench by cutting off the open end, and slipping a tube over the handle. Worked like a charm.
But it is no fun, it took me an hour or two screwing around with that nut before I got it off. The other side was no problem, once I got the hang of it. But you have to drop the corssmember, and lift the motor, as others have said.
Of course getting to them is a whole separate issue. You need either a box end wrench with some funky bends in it, or make your own, or do what I did - sacrificed a box end wrench by cutting off the open end, and slipping a tube over the handle. Worked like a charm.
But it is no fun, it took me an hour or two screwing around with that nut before I got it off. The other side was no problem, once I got the hang of it. But you have to drop the corssmember, and lift the motor, as others have said.
09-29-10, 03:01 PM
#33
They were shot at about 60K, I replaced them around 75-80K (can't recall offhand). The old ones were shot, I have a picture of one, it is a goner. More importantly, my car used to idle roughly at low RPM (without the AC on), and I thought it was just the engine being rough. With the new mounts, it idles like a dream at 400 RPM, so it's like a whole new car.
09-29-10, 06:16 PM
#34
Here are a couple more pics. First one is of the lowered crossmember from a little further away, so you can get the bigger picture. You can still see the nut on top of the motor mount. Second photo is of the old motor mount, you can see that it was almost sheared in half. I checked my records, turns out I replaced them at 90K, probably about 30K later than I should have 
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09-29-10, 06:22 PM
#35
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Here are a couple more pics. First one is of the lowered crossmember from a little further away, so you can get the bigger picture. You can still see the nut on top of the motor mount. Second photo is of the old motor mount, you can see that it was almost sheared in half. I checked my records, turns out I replaced them at 90K, probably about 30K later than I should have .
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Did you get original Lexus parts or aftermarket?
09-29-10, 06:46 PM
#36
09-29-10, 07:06 PM
#38
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Any alternatives you can think of other than cutting off the end of the wrench? Also, did you just tighten it as hard as you can since it seems impossible to fit a torque wrench in? Looking to do it this weekend and I want to have all the tools ready before I start messing with the car.
09-29-10, 07:26 PM
#39
Any alternatives you can think of other than cutting off the end of the wrench? Also, did you just tighten it as hard as you can since it seems impossible to fit a torque wrench in? Looking to do it this weekend and I want to have all the tools ready before I start messing with the car.
). But if you have a really long box end, or have superhuman strength, you might be able to loosen the nut with that, without having to use an extension like I did. Once you get into it you'll realize that even with the dropped crossmember, there is exceedingly little room to play with, you are constrained on all sides by the motor, suspension, steering, and body components, so there is not much swinging room at all.As far as torquing, yeah, no way was I going to get a torque wrench on that nut, so I just gave it a good heave-ho and called it done.
10-06-10, 08:12 PM
#40
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There probably are some alternatives if you plan ahead (I was into the project when I realized that I had no other means to loosen the nut, and this seemed like the lesser of all evils ). But if you have a really long box end, or have superhuman strength, you might be able to loosen the nut with that, without having to use an extension like I did. Once you get into it you'll realize that even with the dropped crossmember, there is exceedingly little room to play with, you are constrained on all sides by the motor, suspension, steering, and body components, so there is not much swinging room at all.
As far as torquing, yeah, no way was I going to get a torque wrench on that nut, so I just gave it a good heave-ho and called it done.
). But if you have a really long box end, or have superhuman strength, you might be able to loosen the nut with that, without having to use an extension like I did. Once you get into it you'll realize that even with the dropped crossmember, there is exceedingly little room to play with, you are constrained on all sides by the motor, suspension, steering, and body components, so there is not much swinging room at all.As far as torquing, yeah, no way was I going to get a torque wrench on that nut, so I just gave it a good heave-ho and called it done.
10-09-10, 03:17 PM
#42
I was quoted $749.96 by Lexus of Austin this week to replace both the engine and tranny mounts on my 2003 GS430 w/118k miles, which seemed kind of pricey. I trust my service writer as I have used him for years now, but how does this sound to you all?
Thanks!
Thanks!
10-11-10, 03:03 PM
#45
So were you able to get this done last weekend???