98 gs300 making buzzing loud buzzing sound**helpppppp
#61
[QUOTE=ta1972;9367159]That's normal upon start up. It's the actuator pump pressurizing the accumulator. If however, if it's doing that every 10-15 seconds early all the time, then you possibly have a slow leak from the accumulator. This in turn will wear out your actuator pump quicker and eventually fail.[/Q ]
True, however it's most likely the e-motor to fail. This one drives the brake booster pump.
The hydraulic pump unit e-motor & pump are sold as 1 unit. The e-motor can be found on eBay ,rebuilt by 3rd parties.
[I]Complete brake booster pump[I]
[I]Rebuilt electric motor[I]
True, however it's most likely the e-motor to fail. This one drives the brake booster pump.
The hydraulic pump unit e-motor & pump are sold as 1 unit. The e-motor can be found on eBay ,rebuilt by 3rd parties.
[I]Complete brake booster pump[I]
[I]Rebuilt electric motor[I]
#62
That's normal upon start up. It's the actuator pump pressurizing the accumulator. If however, if it's doing that every 10-15 seconds early all the time, then you possibly have a slow leak from the accumulator. This in turn will wear out your actuator pump quicker and eventually fail.
#65
Let me ask you this (just want to be sure before buying the part!). Here's a typical frequency for my pump running: I just took a 2.4 mile trip in town, with 11 stops--the pump ran at startup and then 3 more times during that trip. Does that sound normal, or does that sound like it has a leak? The car is a 98 with 134k miles. Thanks and sorry for all the questions.
After I changed out the accumulator, I went to the official Lexus dealership, and let them "judge" the work I've done and if the system was running as it is supposed to be running.
The lead mechanic showed me an LS460 & CT200 in the workshop, and both brake systems "buzzed" when the key was in the "on" position, meaning the system was being pressurised. After the "buzzing" the brake pedal was pushed hard once and no "buzz". The second time the pedal was pushed it " buzzed" shortly", the 3rd time no "buzz" en so & on.
This is what a healthy, well maintained Toyota/lexus brake system should do.
In my case, the "buzzing" was almost all the time, until the fix.
Hope this was a useful answer.
#66
Sounds normal, but I'm no licensed mechanic.
After I changed out the accumulator, I went to the official Lexus dealership, and let them "judge" the work I've done and if the system was running as it is supposed to be running.
The lead mechanic showed me an LS460 & CT200 in the workshop, and both brake systems "buzzed" when the key was in the "on" position, meaning the system was being pressurised. After the "buzzing" the brake pedal was pushed hard once and no "buzz". The second time the pedal was pushed it " buzzed" shortly", the 3rd time no "buzz" en so & on.
This is what a healthy, well maintained Toyota/lexus brake system should do.
In my case, the "buzzing" was almost all the time, until the fix.
Hope this was a useful answer.
After I changed out the accumulator, I went to the official Lexus dealership, and let them "judge" the work I've done and if the system was running as it is supposed to be running.
The lead mechanic showed me an LS460 & CT200 in the workshop, and both brake systems "buzzed" when the key was in the "on" position, meaning the system was being pressurised. After the "buzzing" the brake pedal was pushed hard once and no "buzz". The second time the pedal was pushed it " buzzed" shortly", the 3rd time no "buzz" en so & on.
This is what a healthy, well maintained Toyota/lexus brake system should do.
In my case, the "buzzing" was almost all the time, until the fix.
Hope this was a useful answer.
#68
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (182)
between you finding the nitrogen canister and this info, NOONE should have to ever replace their whole BMC. You can buy the hydraulic pump/e-motor from the dealership (part # 47960-30030) or the E-motor on ebay (rebuilt) or the nitrogen canister (part # 47950-30010) and the O-ring (90301-13014) or the Brake Master Cylinder Kit ( Part # 04493-30330) from the dealership....
again super great info animalfarm
if its not it needs to be, come on mods...sticky this
Last edited by sakataj; 02-21-17 at 07:47 PM.
#72
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2016
Location: NY
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Went to check out the car at the shop. They put in the 03 BMC, the abs vsc lights are off but i still hear a noise on the release of the brake. Any ideas? Labor is 100 since i know the guy.Here is a quick video.
Last edited by MB33; 05-24-16 at 03:57 PM.
#74
between you finding the nitrogen canister and this info, NOONE should have to ever replace their whole BMC. You can buy the hydraulic pump/e-motor from the dealership (part # 47960-30030) or the E-motor on ebay (rebuilt) or the nitrogen canister (part # 47950-30010) and the O-ring (90301-13014) from the dealership....
again super great info animalfarm
if its not it needs to be, come on mods...sticky this
again super great info animalfarm
if its not it needs to be, come on mods...sticky this
You wouldn't happen to have a link for rebuilt emotor would you?
#75
Driver School Candidate
brake master cylinder electric ABS motor repair
I had my electric motor rebuilt completely at : Eurton Electric Co., Inc., 9920 Painter Ave, Whittier CA 90605, 800-423-4789 (main) 562-946-0014 (fax) john@eurtonelectric.com
here is their detailed rebuilding process, current pricing is $245 plus shipping to and from:
I also replaced the nitrogen accumulator and installed the lexus rebuild kit internally in the cylinder plunger area.
to properly bleed the brakes, the air bleed process has to be used, it tells you to start the car, let it run, and i guess it opens up all the ports in the ABS system to bleed out all the air........before I did this, i did get the brakes working, but the pedal felt mushy.
now everything is good, hoping this way to get another 10 years out of this car.
here is their detailed rebuilding process, current pricing is $245 plus shipping to and from:
to properly bleed the brakes, the air bleed process has to be used, it tells you to start the car, let it run, and i guess it opens up all the ports in the ABS system to bleed out all the air........before I did this, i did get the brakes working, but the pedal felt mushy.
now everything is good, hoping this way to get another 10 years out of this car.
Last edited by Sportsfan2; 07-26-16 at 04:56 PM.