OK,

I've done some research and want to doublecheck some things I think I know re: a DIY for a gs400 starter

Things I would like people to verify / answer
1) Done correctly, removing the intake manifold will NOT spill a lot of fuel or coolant
2) Before removing the fuel line, remove the gas cap to relieve fuel pressure in the line
3) Where am I detaching the fuel line? What should I use to plug the line? Do I need special tools
4) Where am I going to lose coolant?
5) Are there any special tips on removing the starter bolts?
6) Does anybody have the torque specs for the bolts on the starter and to reinstall the intake manifold?

I've attached two borrowed photos with questions on them. Any help appreciated!

Thanks

 

Ive done it on a SC400... PITA!

1). Fuel will not spill out however coolant will spill out of the bridge thing.
2). Yes. remove gas cap so that gas doesn't leak out of the fuel line in the engine..
3). If you remove the gas cap fuel wont rush out so you should be fine
4). The bridge.
5). Socket n breaker bar lol
6). http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/...nts/index.html sshould help a lot.

This is for the SC400 1uz.. the GS4 uses the second gen 1uz.. so yea it might be different.

Goodluck!

 

There was a write up in the maintance section with the starter for the GS400.. I think the contacts were replaced..

 

I'm sure you've already narrowed your issue down to the starter but you may wanna have a look at this link as it's a PITA to get to.

http://www.lextreme.com/dx-starter.html

 

I hear you. Thanks for the lextreme writeup; I went thru the testing and the relay replacement last weekend.

I've ordered the starter so I am now committed to the DIY.

 

1. The manifold won't lose coolant, but once the manifold's off there's a small coolant "manifold" (looks like a large brat) that's a crossover to the opposite bank that has to be removed. That leaks about a 1/2 cup. I just let 'er leak and wiped it up.

2. I didn't touch the gas cap -- its on the other end of the system.

3. No special tools. Just pull off where convenient (I think by the firewall?).

4. See #1.

5. On removal, no. On the re-install, crank em down, then tap the back of the starter a few times with a hammer, and crank down again. If it grinds a teensy bit the first time you start it, the starter needs to be tightened some more probably.

6. I looked for those, too, never found em. Tighten the starter to the point of right before stripping the threads, the manifold I think was 40 lbs.

PS. I think I reused ALL of the gaskets except the small coolant manifold gaskets.

 

Frank,

Re: 4. I am assuming I should/can test the starter before reinstalling the intake manifold, right?

 

Yeah, you should. I didn't, which was risky. There's a thread that talks about what to do about spurting coolant and gas, etc when cranking on it. I was confident everything was in and tight...

...so I reassembled, jumped in the car and turned the key only to hear a BRRRRRRT. Had a heart attack, then remembered the trick about tapping the back of the starter. Sooo, I grabbed a piece of wood trim I had in the garage and a mallet, and got the stick under the manifold against the starter, and gave er a few good whacks. Then, tightened the bolts with just about all my strength.

Car started right up. I didn't think the 0.050" I probably moved it would make any difference. Wierd.

 

Frank, with manifold off (no gas) what should a properly installed starter sound like? Not a BRRT but a....?

If I have to take the mani off twice, I think I might just get a bus pass...

Thanks

 

You hear the starter run as normal if it is installed properly. If it isn't then you will hear some horrible grinding or metal banging noises lol. The starter bolts on the V8 are a pain to get to since they are tucked waaay in the back behind the engine against the firewall.

 

Jeff,

How do you handle the fuel line and coolant lines when you test the starter?

Plastic bottles?

 

Jeff has a GS300.. their starters are WAY easier to replace lol..

for my SC4 1uz i let it spill >.> since it caught me by surprise. If i were to go back i would drain the whole engine block.

fuel line i just let it evaporate...

not the best way but it works.. just stay safe.

 

If you really want to test the starter, do not use the key. Just apply 12volts to the solenoid with a jumper wire from the battery.

Use caution when working around the knock sensor and the knock sensor wire.

Good luck and FYI, the intake; upper, lower and TB comes off in one piece.

 

here's a video of it.

 

i just had a guy put in a new starter 4 me put everything back together now the car won't stay idle its starts up then sits idle for a second then shuts down he's saying be because he didn't tell replace the manifold gasket the car won't run properly but I'm reading on here nobody changed them so with the new starter it revs up fine starts but won't stay idle I was having intermittent starting from the old starter so I replaced now it won't stay on?