DRL Defeat Question
Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
I have a 98 gs400 and my DRLs seem to be the headlights (low beam). As soon as I turn the key to the ON position these damn things come on. Anyone got any suggestions for me. By the way, there is NO DIFFERNCE in the dimness or brightness of the LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS from when they turn on when the key in in the ON position and when the headlights are on.
I thought 98's didn't come with the DRL's?
I thought that option became available in 99 only?!
Rookie
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: AZ
First, let me express my reluctance in advising anyone on how to disable DRLs since I sincerely feel they contribute some level of additional safety factor for all of us.
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
THis is fantastic advice, thanks wwest! Worked like a charm on my 02 GS4 and I could not be happier. I also replaced my sooty high bulbs with silverstar ultras and there is a BIG difference. Thanks again.
Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: AZ
WWEST is the Man.
The jumper wire trick from WWEST worked great on my 2000 GS4. No more DRL's, no warning light, and low/high beams work fine. I used a short piece of copper-braid wire (a.k.a. solder-wick) to make the jumper. The solder-wick is thin, flat, and flexible, and fits nicely next to the fuse blade. I placed a dummy (burned out) fuse back in the DRL-2 slot to facilitate holding the jumper wire.
LOL...well after I studied the diagrams it seems there is a wire from the parking brake to the DRL main relay. When the parking brake is applied the DRL's do not light. When the park brake is released and that wire is grounded, the DRLs come on. SO...just figure out where that wire is and snip it. Should work...remind me to look for it lol.
LOL...well after I studied the diagrams it seems there is a wire from the parking brake to the DRL main relay. When the parking brake is applied the DRL's do not light. When the park brake is released and that wire is grounded, the DRLs come on. SO...just figure out where that wire is and snip it. Should work...remind me to look for it lol.
THey should have at least made the DRL's turn off whenever the parkign brake is applied.
Great directions and a Great DIY!
First, let me express my reluctance in advising anyone on how to disable DRLs since I sincerely feel they contribute some level of additional safety factor for all of us.
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
So far the best DIY on my car.
Thanks again wwest!
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Lexus/Toyotas With The LEAST 5-Year Depreciation
Joe Kucinski
Lexus LC500 Convertible Auction: A Preview of Rising Values?
Brett Foote
GX 550 vs TX 550: Best 3-Row Luxury Lexus Family Hauler
Michael S. Palmer
9 Best Lexus Models You Can Buy for Half Price (And 1 You Shouldn't!)
Joe Kucinski
2026 Lexus NX Buyer's Guide: Models, Features, Prices & More!
Brett Foote
Top 10 Reasons to Buy a Lexus TX 550h+ (& 3 Reasons to AVOID!)
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyota Models of the 1990s RANKED!
Joe Kucinski
10 Great Toyotas That Could Have Been Lexus Models
Joe Kucinski
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Maine
great quick and easy mod! appreciate it guys! any idea how to kill my third brake light in my 99 gs400? i'm a stereo junkie and want to build a custom rear deck without the light. any and all help/suggestions are welcomed and appreciated
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Drl
wwest: Thank-you once again...The operation was a success..the drls are gone! I owe you one. Hopefully my wiring will hold up under the tremendous g-forces associated with my driving. Now those ticket-happy city and chp cops will have to look a little harder to spot me.
Peace
Peace
which method did you use
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
