Darn Dealer!!!
So I finally got off my lazy **** and decided to change my oil.. I couldn't start the car it sat in my driveway all winter. So I go to loosen up the drain plug from the oil pan, and was like hmmm why is the plug so loose. So when all said and done, when I try to tighten the plug it is stripped. The dealer did my last two oil changes, it just makes them seem guilty by not telling me as this is something I would have wanted to know. I mean I could have potentially destroy my motor if I was driving and the plug came loose. What do you guys think, I probably cannot blame it on them. I really do not want to change my oil again to add a +1 size plug. I am kind of ocd this is going to bother me every time I drive the car
If I were you, I'd go and get a new oil pan. They are only $90 new. While you're at it, pick up the black silicone RTV sealant to go with it. Total cost should run you around $110. Not hard at all to do really, it's just removing a bunch of bolts and then prying the oil pan off, then take a sharp edge and scrape the old RTV sealant off and reapply the new selant on the new oil pan and reinstall.
Thanks for the advice guys.. However I just did my oil change, new brakes, and I want to slam the car.. and I am trying to buy a $165,000 home. Money is very very tight..haha I guess Ill just have to keep an eye out on the plug, but next oil change I will try and swap the pan, thanks!!!!
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hmmm, it may work but if my threads are stripped, which I believe them to be, then it probably will not work. I did read a little more, it is suppose to fix stripped threads.. wohoo!!
Last edited by gs4play; Mar 17, 2009 at 12:41 PM.
i have my fumoto plug for sale if anyone wants. i had it on b/c i used to change my oil very often (i drove 100 miles to work each day). i don't change the oil that often anymore and took the valve off. it is perfect condition.
I can't remember as I've only changed the oil on my GS300 once, but is the drain plug on the bottom of the pan, or the bottom? If it's on the bottom, the Fumoto valve will be hanging down and a little too vulnerable for my taste, especially if you are lowering your ride. If it's on the side, you are going to leave perhaps 1/4-1/2" of old oil in the bottom of the pan due to the way the drain valve is positioned.
I have a Fumoto on my Ford Dually 4x4 and had one on my G/F's Firebird before I totaled it due to an a$$hat crossing the center line.
They do work very well, but just be aware of the disadvantages.
I have a Fumoto on my Ford Dually 4x4 and had one on my G/F's Firebird before I totaled it due to an a$$hat crossing the center line.
They do work very well, but just be aware of the disadvantages.
I can't remember as I've only changed the oil on my GS300 once, but is the drain plug on the bottom of the pan, or the bottom? If it's on the bottom, the Fumoto valve will be hanging down and a little too vulnerable for my taste, especially if you are lowering your ride. If it's on the side, you are going to leave perhaps 1/4-1/2" of old oil in the bottom of the pan due to the way the drain valve is positioned.
I have a Fumoto on my Ford Dually 4x4 and had one on my G/F's Firebird before I totaled it due to an a$$hat crossing the center line.
They do work very well, but just be aware of the disadvantages.
I have a Fumoto on my Ford Dually 4x4 and had one on my G/F's Firebird before I totaled it due to an a$$hat crossing the center line.
They do work very well, but just be aware of the disadvantages.
If your drain plug is loose then the oil pan itself is stripped. The Fumoto Valve is not going to fix your FUBAR'd threads.
The only fix, besides replacing the pan, is going to be drilling (yikes !) the hole and tapping for a larger drainplug. I would DEFINITELY use a drain plug rubber washer or copper crush washer as well.
You might be able to Helicoil the threads but I don't know if there's enough 'meat' in the wall thickness of the oil pan for a Helicoil to work.
If this is your daily driver you might want to suck up the cost of the new oil pan otherwise you could drop the plug, seize the engine and you'll be shopping for a $155K house !
The only fix, besides replacing the pan, is going to be drilling (yikes !) the hole and tapping for a larger drainplug. I would DEFINITELY use a drain plug rubber washer or copper crush washer as well.
You might be able to Helicoil the threads but I don't know if there's enough 'meat' in the wall thickness of the oil pan for a Helicoil to work.
If this is your daily driver you might want to suck up the cost of the new oil pan otherwise you could drop the plug, seize the engine and you'll be shopping for a $155K house !
Car maintenance is super e-z and way cheaper to diy. Erryone should at least know the basics (i.e. oil change, tune-up, brakes, etc...)imo. I would say do every and/or all your own installs, cuz it just makes you more familiar w/ your car + save much hard earned $$$.
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