Basically you get a small screwdriver and pry the connector from that panel. You'll see side tabs that need to be moved out of the way with the screw driver. Easy peasy.

 

FYI, here's my writeup on my fix (with pics).

I just pulled the "key" down the shaft of the motor a little, using a gear puller.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ml#post8773832

 

Bump...anyone with some insight on this.?

 

Thanks Sakataj and all. It took me a while, but I got it done, and put back together! Someone had a post about removing the console to access a screw that holds the third piece of white plastic in place. I took this route after getting tired of not being able to see to re-install the parts. Getting the third piece (furthest left) of white plastic out made it much easier for me. And I left the screw out so that I don't have to move the console again to remove the plastic. To get to the screw, remove the wood console. remove the rights screw holding the console to the dash, and muscle the right side of the console to the right (there is a tab next to the screw that holds the console in place). I calibrated it and it works great.
I got the passenger temp servo on ebay from ToyLexParts in FL, $105, new OEM part, free expedited shipping. If he has a part I need, he will get my business.

 

sakataj,
Can anyone answer these?

What does each servo motor do?


Passenger side Mode servo motor......
Passenger side Cool servo motor.....
Driver Side Servo Motor......








...

 

My heater pipes are splayed further apart than those shown in Sakataj's photos, for example (even though I have the same year and model).

Not only is that lower back screw (passenger servo) a pain to get to, but the lower forward facing was as well. When I got through spending hours, trying different drivers, bits, gizmos...what worked was a thin shaft jewelers-type driver, necessarily at a 30 deg angle to the screw, and having to use small vice-grips (for torque) to painstakingly turn it 1/4-turn at a time then reset and lock the pliers again (tearing up the screwdriver with the pliers). Holy cow!

At the point I finally got it out and it fell down behind the console/carpeting to be lost (of course), I resigned myself to thinking maybe I can to do without re-installing that screw again, and 3 may be stable enough.

I thought I now must have dealt with the "difficult one" everyone talks about. Then getting to the lower backmost screw...its looking to be the same situation - maybe worse due to even more confined space. Once gain having under a 1/2 inch of clearance from the face of the screw to the (other) heater pipe, and needing to angle a thin shaft to turn little by little (by little) with pliers.

Sorry - my point to setting up my question is, "how in the heck am I going to get these screws back in there"? That seems the kicker to me. I would have to put at least one of these two "super difficult" ones back in and- cant expect only two top ones to be very stable.

How have people managed to get the screws back in given these unbelievable conditions? Any tips?

I'm nearly going to give up...but have a $100 part (I can't return) and the area disassembled. Unless I find a mechanic crazy enough to pick up from where I left off?

Thanks for listening to me vent - frustrated! :-)

I can only think to buy (hopefully?) more of these screws to replace the now worn out grooves (from what I had to do to get them out)...and those I lose behind the console trying to start one back in again - maybe?

 

With a little force you can move.the pipes slightly, enough to use a stubby screwdriver at a slight angle so make sure the screw driver has a good tip that gives you a good grip. Also make sure the screw driver tip is magnetic. You may have to cut the handle of the screwdriver to a certain length or diameter to fit the alloted space. You can also try and find a flexible cable screw driver like the kind the used to have to set the points gap in the old GM cars

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CT9M1IE/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1419865461&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

 

Thank you Brother!

If nothing else its rewarding someone has been down that road, and can share some ideas and perspective from the other side - lol. Giving hope its got to be possible...Its like a dang right of passage - ha. (have I gone mad?)

I totally get your idea on the flex driver, looked at those, and have an assortment of right angled drivers, flexible extensions, ratcheting drivers, hex bits, 1/4-inch flexible knuckles....this isn't my first rodeo with a hard to reach fastener. The problem is all these devices have a knuckle or stiff bit-holder at the end of the shaft.

Anything larger than an 1/8th inch in diameter alongside that pipe throws the angle of the driver to the screw-head too wide...including any standard 1/4" hex bit...if that makes sense. Also there is little clearance perpendicular to the face of the screw and the pipe...that's why I'm not sure how starting a screw back in straight is going to work. Then trying to apply inward pressure for grip/torque to turn it, without just popping it back out.

I don't mean to focus on the problem instead of the solution, just trying to explain what the challenges of the "playing field" are - for me anyway. :-) Maybe I just got the luck of having the "worst orientation" of heating-pipe bends during the assembly process, if tt's not an exact science..

Anyhoo! I went to a fastener-place today and got six more new screws, and six more of the same size but with a hex head...maybe I could fit a wrench over or the like.

I do need to replace this servo, because I heard it cranking now even with the climate-control off. And I'm hoping it may be the cause of the annoying under-dash rattle this car has had since I got it. I have the dash all apart and can't identify anything else yet.

I'll press forward for the moment, despite the "what if's".

 

Meant to ask, too!

Is it ok whatever position the arm on the new servo is in, vs where was positioned on the old that came out?

I'm assuming you can just adjust the connecting pin's position on the vehicle's "ventilation box" (forgot the proper term) to where you need to match up, since you can't move the arms of the servo?

I mean I "assume" that since there hasn't been much details on things like this for re-install.
Am I right?

Unless I missed something in the 400-post thread. But I still can't determine where the arm is positioned on this passenger servo anyway - visibility is limited. I hope the reinstall might go easier than it looks right now - lol.

Thank you! :-)

 

I turned on my ignition and put my temp to max before installing (had it plugged in but not installed) on the one that actuates the vent position I tested it once installed to make sure it operated correctly. Also make sure you plug the corr ect plug to the correct actuator. (another reason to test and confirm visiually)

 

Right! perfect, thank you Sam.
I guess you can move the arm of the servo/motor :-) That's just what I needed to think about..

I did already go ahead and mark the connectors after reading Sakataj story on here.
Sorry we lost him...though he may still be on an LS forum here, and I see you have one of those as well.

Also I see you are in Texas. I'm in the DFW area if there's ever anything going on.

Thanks again!

 

johnnyho,

I feel your pain.

It was a real chore to get those screws out and in again.

I went to a couple of stores looking for the smallest "mini screwdriver/rachet tool" that they had, and they were both going to be too thick. So I ended up using a small ratchet with a screwdriver bit on it at an angle, and was able to get it out with a lot pain. At times, I was also able to just use a small screwdriver.

I didn't have a magnetic screwdriver, so I had to improvise. I just taped a screw onto the end of my screwdriver with a very little amount of masking tape. Once the screw was in, the screwdriver would detach. It worked well enough.

And I didn't need a new part either. I just used a gear puller to adjust the "key" on the motor a little bit.

See the link to my fix if it helps.

Hopefully, you're done by now though?

 

Lol - thank you for sharing that Cacophony. :-)
Like I said, its therapeutic just to hear the stories how others got through it and succeeded...along with the tips how you did it.

I have found some Phillips#1 bits on Amazon and Ebay that have a thinner shaft that's from 1.5-2" long past the 1/4" hex part, I'm hoping may help. I paid way too much in shipping to get it here by last weekend, then didn't get to it yet anyway. But I will report the outcomes ASAP.

Still comes out $1-200 less than paying someone else, I like to think. :-)

I have several projects going on at once...tilt steering motor, these servos, and removing the headlights to clean the lenses and replace a bulb. And its getting cold here...hunting down a place to recertify a propane tank so I can heat my small garage space (to clearcoat the headlights after sanding eg). And maybe make this under-dash work more bearable...I work outside, the garage is only storage.

Anyway, I truly appreciate hearing from you and your hard-earned experience too - thank you.

I'll post it if I come up with something valuable along the lines of these special bits, replacement hex-screws for reinstall(?), or something else interesting.

Wish you a fantastic 2015, hope its a good year :-) Thank you again

 

That's what I ended up doing too. 1/4" ratchet with screwdriver bit, and small right angle ratcheting screwdriver.

Didn't need to worry about arm positions either. as long as it's in the track, the system will self calibrate once everything is back in place.

If I were still in Dallas I'd offer to help, but I just relocated to NC.

 

thanks for this... it worked like a dream.. i was able to take mine apart and readjust the worm gear on the key of the shaft...