Power Door locks not working properly
Recently the front passenger door lock on 2004 LS430 became inop. Now the driver door lock is also inop. Back door locks work fine. I have purchased door lock actuators to replace the front ones. However, one repair shop stated... "WE WOULD NEED TO PERFORM A DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK OF POWER LOCKS TO DETERMIN IF IT’S A POWER OR GROUND ISSUE , OR IS IT A SWITCH =OR ACCUATOR ?? ONCE WE DIAGNOSE IT WE CAN GIVE YOU A ESTIMATE TO REPAIR , DIAGNOSTICS GENEALY RUN $ 100.00."
I'm tempted to NOT have the diagnostic circuit check done since failed door actuators seem to be a common problem.
Any comments/recommendations appreciated.
I'm tempted to NOT have the diagnostic circuit check done since failed door actuators seem to be a common problem.
Any comments/recommendations appreciated.
jdixp2: Each door has a computer which distributes electrical power to each door mounted device as needed. If your mirrors, mirror heat, illumination lamp, and power windows are all working, then the power and ground to the "door ECU" is satisfactory.
Well my problem is getting worse. Everyday occurance. Problem doesn't happen in the morning since I can unlock and lock all doors ok...only happens during the day. My 30 second wait theory doesn't work. Maybe it is heat related since it's darn hot here and my car is black. I'm still investigating and experimenting.
What's confusing me is since the locks do work ok in the morning, what's causing them to act weak during the day?
What's confusing me is since the locks do work ok in the morning, what's causing them to act weak during the day?
and it depend on the position that you park your car to the sun, the heat affect those motors inside of the actuators. The grease and components inside wear out when have a lot of heat and for that reason does motors not work properly. In the morning everything is colder, everything return to work better together just for a while. When the motor inside of the actuator start fill the heat or is hot again, lose the grease and the contact inside the small motor and not make the contact that have to. Thats why thoses actuators start say to you, Heyyyyyy, I go older and you need to change me. Also, the actuator wires are connect to the alarm system and when the actuators no work correctly, the alarm system not work correctly as well. That is why you not hear the beep of the alarm. The whole system is connected to work together. Because if the actuator not work correctly, the alarm system not understand if the locks are open or close and does not let you know anything or you not hear the beep of the alarm. Also, is not so difficult to change the actuator. I change one already and take my like 45 minutes to and hour and was the first time I tried my self. Just take your time and I know everyone can do it.
Last edited by Mcon; May 25, 2015 at 08:05 AM.
Also, open your inside cover door and check your wires connectors if each one are connected correctly. Maybe one of the small wire plug are out and that why you system not working right.
a door acuator is one unit and it locks and unlocks your door. there is one acuator per door. this is a very common problem gs' and by doing a seach, you'll get a lot of info.
most cl members buys the acuator from carson toyota and have their mechanic do the job. you can do it yourself but it's a bit complicated and you need the right tools so it's better to pay someone.
most cl members buys the acuator from carson toyota and have their mechanic do the job. you can do it yourself but it's a bit complicated and you need the right tools so it's better to pay someone.
Recently the front passenger door lock on 2004 LS430 became inop. Now the driver door lock is also inop. Back door locks work fine. I have purchased door lock actuators to replace the front ones. However, one repair shop stated... "WE WOULD NEED TO PERFORM A DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK OF POWER LOCKS TO DETERMIN IF IT’S A POWER OR GROUND ISSUE , OR IS IT A SWITCH =OR ACCUATOR ?? ONCE WE DIAGNOSE IT WE CAN GIVE YOU A ESTIMATE TO REPAIR , DIAGNOSTICS GENEALY RUN $ 100.00."
I'm tempted to NOT have the diagnostic circuit check done since failed door actuators seem to be a common problem.
Any comments/recommendations appreciated.
I'm tempted to NOT have the diagnostic circuit check done since failed door actuators seem to be a common problem.
Any comments/recommendations appreciated.
I have the same problem. My mechanic says both actuators are bad, $1,000 to replace. Why should BOTH actuators on right side go bad at the same instant in time? Occasionally one or the other will lock, but usually I have to manually set the locks inside then close the doors holding the handle out. Could it be something other than the actuators?
I have the same problem. My mechanic says both actuators are bad, $1,000 to replace. Why should BOTH actuators on right side go bad at the same instant in time? Occasionally one or the other will lock, but usually I have to manually set the locks inside then close the doors holding the handle out. Could it be something other than the actuators?
I repaired mine with the little $5 replacement motors that you buy on Ebay.
I have a 01 GS430, the motors should be the same in all models right?
All 4 of mine are out now lol. For some reason, the rear passenger was not locking even when I tried to manually lock it. I ended up putting the child lock on, which worked and kept the door from opening up. However, now that I think about it, that might have been a bad idea, because I can't open it from the outside or the inside....... What do I do?!?!?
BTW if there is anyone in the Austin or Houston area that has experience with this and can do this for me, I will pay you.
BTW if there is anyone in the Austin or Houston area that has experience with this and can do this for me, I will pay you.
my driver side actuator went in and out for a while then finally conked out..since its the driver side it is a pain in the **** but tolerable..few nights ago the pass rear started acting up..i think there's a larger issue looming though and may need to replace the wire connecting to the battery. i picked my gs a few years back and it had only 12k miles on it so it sat with the prior owner. battery acid really tore it up and when i went to change the battery, that was when i noticed the issue. I'll have to figure out if there have been prior posts on this issue






