Engine flooding at crank
#1
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Engine flooding at crank
Ok, I'm bout to give up on my gs300. It ran great. Got home from work fine, next day crank no start condition. Just changed the plugs and wires when I got the car 2 weeks ago. I noticed the strong smell of gas so, I took. The plugs out and all of them were flooded. Used a shop vac and got all the cas out of each cylinder. Dripped about a tea spoon of oil in each cylinder to lub it back up due to the fuel drying oil up. Removed the EFi fuse and cranked it for 10 sec. Put fuse back in and first crank almost started then flooded again. Changed fuel pump and still same issue. I thought maybe injectors but, I can't imagine all of them going bad at once.
I am in desperate need of help. Afraid of losing my job due to transportation issues.
Can someone please point me where I should look next?
I am in desperate need of help. Afraid of losing my job due to transportation issues.
Can someone please point me where I should look next?
#2
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Turn the ignition switch on and measure voltage at the Igniter. The Center wire (5 wires) is the Power input. Make sure you have 12v there first. That would sell me that the car is ready to fire. Get a scan tool and pull codes, or do it the Flashing light method by shorting the OBD1 Connector. Search on this form to find what 2 connector pind to short as i cant remember.
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I had all most the same problem with my sc300 before i got the ecu rebuilt. In that case it was the drivers for the fuel injectors had gone bad and the injectors were sticking on longer than they were supposed to.
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Iam thinking of finding a new one. Cant afford it right now. Anything else I should be checking in the mean time?
Thank you
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Turn the ignition switch on and measure voltage at the Igniter. The Center wire (5 wires) is the Power input. Make sure you have 12v there first. That would sell me that the car is ready to fire. Get a scan tool and pull codes, or do it the Flashing light method by shorting the OBD1 Connector. Search on this form to find what 2 connector pind to short as i cant remember.
I have replaced the igniter. Still same condition.
Thank you
#6
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Turn the ignition switch on and measure voltage at the Igniter. The Center wire (5 wires) is the Power input. Make sure you have 12v there first. That would sell me that the car is ready to fire. Get a scan tool and pull codes, or do it the Flashing light method by shorting the OBD1 Connector. Search on this form to find what 2 connector pind to short as i cant remember.
#7
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Here's a link to the ecu re builder that did my ecu give him a call and tell him what is going on with your car if he cant help you he should at lest be able to point you in the right direction.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILD-REPA...1UUVvD&vxp=mtr
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#8
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My ecu looked fine when i opened it witch is what took me so long to figure out the problem. What i ended up doing was sending it off to a guy who rebuilt it for me. he not only replaced the caps but also the drivers and other where items.
Here's a link to the ecu re builder that did my ecu give him a call and tell him what is going on with your car if he cant help you he should at lest be able to point you in the right direction.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILD-REPA...1UUVvD&vxp=mtr
Here's a link to the ecu re builder that did my ecu give him a call and tell him what is going on with your car if he cant help you he should at lest be able to point you in the right direction.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILD-REPA...1UUVvD&vxp=mtr
Thank you
I put the ecu back in. Replaced the tps and took apart the IACv. Car started tight up. Still smokes and idles funny. So, my conclusion is that the IAC is bad. I didn't clean it, but it was stuck. I can't afford a new one so I'm looking for a salvage yard replacement.
Update once I replace.
Thank you for your feedback
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